| Introduction |
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| The Jig | |
| Saw Setting | |
| Saw Filing | |
| Some Theoretical Issues | |
| Sloping Gullets | |
| Copyright (c) 2002-11, Brent Beach |
From Charles Johnson's Saw Dictionary - work with the file handle toward the saw handle.
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Always begin at the "heel" of the cutoff saw, filing on two
teeth, running the file level and straight, giving the bevel and
pitch most suitable for the work and timber.
File with the front of the tooth, giving it the feather edge, and
against the back of the tooth, giving it the smooth inferior cutting
edge.
Then file back on the other side of the saw from the "toe" to the "heel," taking care not to file too little or too much, filing the large teeth as much and the small teeth as little us necessary, to make the teeth and spacing even sized, bringing out most of the teeth sharp and to an even size. |
From the Disston Lumberman Handbook - work with the file handle pointed away from the saw handle.
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When the saws are manufactured the sharpening is usually done by filing
every other tooth from point to butt or handle end. The filer,
standing at the point of saw holding the point of the file inclined
toward the handle, works in that direction and against the front or
cutting-edge of the tooth set toward him. After filing every
alternate tooth, maintaining a uniform angle and bevel, the saw is
reversed in the clamp, the filer changing his position accordingly
and proceeding to file the alternate teeth on this side, also
beginning with the first tooth set toward him.
By this method the operator is in better position to see if the fronts of the teeth are being brought up keen. It also does away with the "feather-edge" thrown up on the cutting-edge of tooth which is done by holding point of file toward point of saw, or in other words filing against the set of the back of the tooth. |
If you use Method II, the burr appears on the inside of the front of the tooth, on the outside of the back of the tooth. If you use Method I, the burr appears on the outside of the front of the tooth, on the inside of the back of the tooth.
Why does it matter where the burr is? It matters because these burrs are broken off by contact with the wood as you saw. The breaking off could produce a degraded cutting edge. If this is true, then it makes sense to have the degraded edge on the back of the tooth rather than the front of the tooth (for saws that cut on the push stroke). This suggests that Method II would provide a longer lasting sharpening.
I will take some microscope pictures of teeth filed each way and include them here.
Charles Johnson says: "[a right handed filer, working with the file handle toward the saw handle, gets] ... the better view of the teeth points on the second filing [saw handle on the right], and is best adapted for rapid work, while the [saw handle on the left during the second pass] gives the better view for accurate filing of the teeth.
This is important - the filer must be able to see the teeth clearly, in particular the points and the flats on those points created by jointing, with visibility most important on the second pass.
There are 4 permutations of the two saw positions (handle on the left or right) and file positions (file tip pointing toward saw heel or toe). A third factor is whether you are right or left handed (left handers please reverse all terms in this discussion.) Each complete saw filing involves having the saw handle on the left during one pass, on the right during the other.
In these drawings of a saw as viewed from above, the zig zag is the gullets, the lines going to the edge mark the cutting tips of the teeth (the most important part when filing). The position of the saw handle and the filer are labelled and the file position shown by the dark line. The bevel on the front of the tooth is marked in green, the bevel on the back of the tooth in blue.
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Filing with the set on the tooth front, looking at back of next tooth.
As bevel increases, filer crammed into blade. Filing even numbered gullets.
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Filing with the set on the tooth front, looking at the front of that tooth.
Filing odd numbered gullets. |
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Filing against the set on the tooth front, looking at the back of the next tooth.
Filing odd numbered gullets. |
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Filing against the set on the tooth front, looking at the front of that tooth.
As bevel increases, filer crammed into blade. Filing even numbered gullets. |
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Using Method II (drawings 3 and 4), file tip toward saw handle, the filer is still on the wrong side of the file for one pass down the saw.
With my jig, I can rotate the file away from the tooth for a quick visual check of both sides of the gullet, then rotate it back into position with no loss of accuracy. Since this is easy no matter which direction the file points, I don't think the visibility argument favours one file direction over the other.
When you file with the set, the file moves easily and smoothly across the face making little noise. When you file against the set, the file skips and bounces as the teeth contact the leading edge of the tooth, making quite a bit of noise. It is my belief that the surface on the with tooth is much better than the surface on the against tooth. I believe that this effect is as great as the burr effect, if not greater.
I will take some microscope pictures of teeth to see if any effect is detectable.
The sliders determine the slope of the file. If you want a slope, make sliders with angled saw kerfs.
When filing sloping gullets, it is usually easier to tilt the saw in the saw vice than to tilt the file. My saw vice only tilts away from me - the geometry of the vice and the bench clamp prevent tilting toward me. This means I can only file up the gullets, not down the gullets. Since the gullets always slope down toward the handle, the file handle must slope back toward the handle as well.
So, with standard saw vices, it is difficult to use Method II if you want sloping gullets.
I also do testing on plane iron durability. In that testing I have found that the fineness of the final abrasive used on the edge affects how long the blade stays sharp. This result will certainly apply to saws as well.
When we file a saw, we are using the worst possible abrasion method. Worst because filing does a lot of damage to the metal of the saw. Any abrasion does some damage, but filing is far worse than other methods.
The metal of the saw is fractured up to 3 times as deep as the deepest scatch left by the file. When we use the saw, the factured metal is the first to wear. Because it was shattered by the file, it is not as durable are the underlying steel. As the shattered layer wears off, the shape of the tip changes - it becomes duller. With increasing dullness friction between the saw and the wood increase and wear continues at a faster pace.
Questions: