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This manual was written by Cleo Laxton and is posted here with her permission. Her web site is: Cleo Laxton's, Seafox Smooth Fox Terriers Back to Living With Smooth Fox Terriers home page.
Contents
Your puppy is like a child, therefore I feel it’s best to treat him as such. They have a great deal to learn of this new world they’ve been brought into. Puppies make mistakes, just like children. If they aren’t watched and taught, you won’t be happy with your new little friend. Be patient, positive and talk gently and quietly, use the same words for an action-IE-sit-come-down. Always remember to praise and fuss about him when he does what you want. Smooth Fox Terriers, in general, are extremely intelligent and if not taught the rules right away can become a belligerent, nasty pet. They love to run your life for you, but on the other hand they can be your loyal companion forever. I hope that some of this information will be useful and answer some of your questions. If I can be of any assistance please feel free to call me at anytime, 724-5557 or call your Veterinarian. The puppy is like a child, you have to ask them a million times a day, "Do you have to go out?" The major times to be real watchful and put him out are:
It is advisable to give the puppy his evening drink with his evening meal or when on 2 meals at approximately 10:00 PM (if you retire around 11:00pm). Then he is less inclined to ask out after bedtime or disturb you at some strange hour of the night. Try to teach him to relieve himself on command. This makes it nice for traveling, cold nights and bedtime. Our command is "Be a good girl or boy" or do your business. (Just an update—Try "Hurry, Hurry"—was a suggestion in a training book I am reading and it makes sense.) Until he understands the routine, it is advisable to go out with him and praise him when he does what you expect him to do. NEVER allow your puppy out alone in an unfenced area, always have him on a collar and lead. Even if you have a fenced yard, be sure you keep an eye on him.
Teach your puppy right away the areas of the house he is permitted in and if he is allowed to be on the furniture and beds. We INSIST that every owner purchases a crate for their pet, this becomes their own private home. We personally feed our dogs in the crate and make it their bed area. His bed should be in a warm, dry draft free area. Try to keep it in a similar area all the time. Puppies will not generally soil their bed area. (See crate explanation at end.) Be sure to praise your pet whenever he does something right. Sometimes if necessary, treats may be used, but not on a regular bases. Give him his own toy box, teach him to get his own toys from there, rather than picking up the children’s toys or your socks and other things. (I buy children’s squeaky toys at garage sales, as I have no small children at home.) Be sure you unplug all electrical cords and put them up. Remember to license your pet when he becomes 4 months old. If you have to go out, either crate your pet or put him some place where he cannot cause trouble. The bathroom is great, but put the toilet paper up and put a child gate across the doorway. When traveling, it is a good idea to put him in his crate, as that is his own home and he will probably feel more secure. If by chance there is an accident the dog can’t get away and end up being hurt by cars or run away. Your puppy has been eating PEDIGREE Chicken & Rice, and PEDIGREE MEALTIME. If you wish to change his diet feel free, but please try to use this method as sudden changes cause problems such as diarrhea, loss of appetite or other things.
Once your pet is on a new food, watch for any reactions, weight loss or gain, coat changes (dry texture or oily) not all dogs of the same breed do well on the same foods. Your puppy should be fed at least 3 times a day, until he’s about 6 months old. If they are not cleaning up their meals, feel free to reduce by one meal or reduce the quantity by ¼. Between the ages of 6 months and 12 months the puppy could be cut down to 2 meals a day, preferably morning (your breakfast time) and evening (your dinnertime). This way he won’t be underfoot and you’ll know where he is and what he’s up to. At feeding time, I allow 20 minutes with their food. If he hasn’t finished, the food is removed until the next mealtime, this helps prevent problems with picky eaters. Be sure water is accessible. Give your pup a couple of small dog biscuits when you go to bed. This gives him something to chew on.
I also give a dry biscuit to all my dogs when they go into their crate for the night. Your Veterinarian may suggest you have him on a vitamin supplement, I used SA-37 for all my dogs regardless of age. I have recently added Kelp (1/2 teaspoon daily) to my dog’s supper. (Since switching to Pedigree Mealtime I do not use extra vitamins.) (I purchase Ultra-Kelp from Flack’s Bakerview Kelp Products Inc. 2614 Else Road, Agassiz, B.C. V9M 1A0.) Substitutions in diet are a nice change, some suggestions are:
I will purchase bags of chicken backs and necks, pressure cook them and then can them (or you can freeze them in single serving size) to add a little flavor to the dry kibble. The dry kibble should be the base of all meals. I find that by adding a little chicken or tinned meat it just encourages the pup to eat up. I also warm the food in the microwave. You do not need to do this, I just do it, as I do not like stone cold food and hate to feed it to my dogs. The dogs also enjoy Oatmeal for a change instead of the kibble. I also purchase big BEEF soup bones and give them to the pup to chew. I recommend that you purchase a LARGE rawhide. I purchase the Pressed rather than the knotted ones and get the ones that are at least 8" in size. This way, they cannot hurt themselves with it or swallow it. This helps prevent the pup from chewing on the wrong things when it is teething or bored. Some Veterinarians say not to feed RAWHIDE but to use the Nylabone. This is fine. I purchase Pedigree Pal tinned foods when it is on sale and uses it for traveling and when I run out of my chicken. I find that the "Choice Cuts" cause my dogs to have loose stools so I do not purchase it. The puppy gets just dry kibble for breakfast and lunch. While with me as they are outside all day in their pen, I just put a bucket of dry kibble out around mid morning and leave it with them until supper. This does not work with one pup, as there is no competition for food. Also a single pup does not always play as hard by itself so therefore requires less food. I find on hot days that the noon kibble is hardly touched.
Now some does and don’ts for your dog safety and manners.
All dogs require vaccinations, DHL, Parvo and Carrona. Rabies is also advisable, particularly if you plan to have your pup travel or hike in the woods with you. Your puppy has had- SEE ATTACHED HEALTH RECORD Each Veterinarian has their own ideas of how many shots are required, so please discuss this with him. Your dog should be rechecked for worms. Most worms can be treated together, except TAPEWORM. Stool samples should be taken in to your Vet. Worms may be picked up anywhere. TAPEWORMS appear as little grains of rice in the stool, these are only segments of the worm. Tape worm’s host is a flea. You should always try and keep your dogs’ toenails short as they can cause a number of problems to the feet. Bathing your dog. We bath our dogs with a flea shampoo or a quality dog shampoo. They are bathed when they are dirty or when the coat feels dirty or before every dog show. If you have a flea problem, to help get it under control they should be bathed with a flea shampoo approx. every three day as the gestation period for fleas is 9 days. The house will also require treatment, as the fleas do not stay on the animal. Check with your Veterinarian as to what product he suggests. I have found that the use of PRO BAN is a very satisfactory solution for me with some of my dogs being allergic to flea bites. They now use "Advantage" to control fleas. I have not used it myself. I have been using Pure O’Flea shampoo and find it works quite well. (Since moving to Port Alberni, I have stopped using Pro Ban as I do not have a flea problem.) Smooth Fox Terriers DO shed—therefore you should run a rubber brush or fine comb through their coat at least weekly, oftener is better. You can also train your pup to be vacuumed—Use the hose gently on the body. It pulls all the dead hair out. "New Vaccination protocol being recommended by Colorado State University" A recent survey by one of the largest vaccine manufacturers (Pfizer) of small animal vaccination practices found 1,700 different vaccination recommendations for dogs and cats from veterinarians across the US. In January 1998 the CSU Veterinary Teaching Hospital will be offering it’s clients one additional vaccination program. We are making this change after years of concern about the lack of scientific evidence to support the current practice of annual vaccination and the increasing documentation that over-vaccinating has been associated with harmful side effects. Of particular note in this regard has been the association of autoimmune hemolytic anemia with vaccination in dogs and vaccine-associated sarcomas in cats...both of which are often fatal. Boosters, the annual revaccination recommendation on the vaccine label is just that....a RECOMMENDATION, and is not a legal requirement except for Rabies. The only commonly used vaccine that requires duration of immunity studies be carried out before licensure in the US is Rabies. Even with rabies vaccines, the label may be misleading in that a 3-year duration of immunity product may also be labeled and sold as a one-year duration of immunity product. Based on the concern that annual vaccination of small animals for many infectious agents is probably no longer scientifically justified, and our desire to avoid vaccine-associated adverse events, in January of 1998 we will be recommending a new immunization protocol to our small animal clients. This program recommends the standard 3 shot series for puppies (parvovirus, adenovirus 2, parainfluenza, and distemper), and kittens (panleukopenia, rhinotracheitis, and calicivirus) to include rabies after 12 weeks of age in cats and 16 weeks of age in dogs. Following the initial puppy and kitten immunization series, cats and dogs will be boostered one year later and then every 3 years thereafter for all the above diseases. Similar programs to this one have been recently adopted by the University of Wisconsin, Texas A & M and the American Association of Feline Practitioners. Other available small animal vaccines may need more frequent administration (Bordetella, feline leukemia, Lyme, etc.) and may be recommended for client animals on an "at risk" basis. Recent studies clearly indicate that not all vaccines perform equally and some vaccine products may not be suitable for such a program. In spite of negative first reactions, many dog owners, expert authorities and Veterinarians recommend dog crates as the best way to raise a puppy. The most important benefit that accrues to the pet owner who utilizes crate training is the control of the puppy when it is alone at home, or when you are busy and cannot devote 100 % attention to the pup. When puppies are left alone and allowed to roam too large an area, they become anxious, lonely and bored. By using a pet crate the owner creates positive behavioral patterns that enable the relationship between the pet and his owner to develop and grow. Consider, too, these additional benefits: The virtual elimination of "house training" problems and the attendant "accidents" in the house. The savings in dollars in costs to repair or replace damaged household items. An assurance that the puppy will develop good habits. Eliminating the likelihood of having to give up a pet because of not being able to cope with its behavioral problems. The dog crate is a sanctuary for your pet. It is your pet’s well protected home. "Not so much that it (your pet) cannot get out, but that humans cannot get in," according to a recent release from a major pet food manufacturer. The pet crate is comfortable to your puppy because, like his wild ancestors, he instinctively seeks the safety and security of a "den". The fact that we may see the crate as a very limited space, or very confining, is only a human view. The dog finds a crate a secure haven, more secure that the confusing and sometimes frightening outside world. I recommend that the pup continue to sleep in a crate until it is at least a year old. I also recommend that he be crated when people are busy and cannot watch him until he is reliable in his house manners. (In the case of getting an older dog, please crate it for the night for about 1-2 months until you know it has settled and is adjusted to the new home.) Yes, the pup is spoiled, as I love my babies. I do not let them get away with bad or naughty things though. SUGGESTIONS FOR PUPPY PROOFING YOUR HOME:
SALMON Salmon poisoning in dogs is most commonly seen along the coast line and spawning rivers & streams. However, infected fish are found in the Pacific Ocean. Dogs become infected by ingesting RAW salmon or salt-water trout. Salmon poisoning is also known as neorckettsia. This condition is transmitted by a fluke which is carried by the fish. The larval flukes are found throughout the fish but concentrate in the organs. Dogs have been known to become infected simply by licking the blood from raw salmon. The incubation period is five to nine days after ingestion of infected fish. The condition lasts seven to ten days. The mortality in untreated dogs with salmon poisoning ranges from 50 to 90 percent. Symptoms include fever, diarrhea, vomiting, dehydration and extreme weight loss. Because of the high mortality, dogs should be taken to a Veterinarian immediately. Cooking salmon kills the neorckettsia microorganism.
ONIONS For years we have occasionally shared our hamburgers and hot-dogs garnished with onions with our canine family members. Little did we know that onions, if fed to a dog could be fatal. Components in the onion destroy hemoglobin in the red blood cells of dogs, thus causing a potentially fatal anemia. This condition can be particularly dangerous in older dogs and those who may already be debilitated from some other health problems. This report was in the "Journal of the American Animal Hospital Association". The lesson to be learned is DO NOT FEED ONIONS TO YOUR DOGS.
CHOCOLATE There is a chemical in chocolate that is extremely toxic to dogs and can be fatal. Even though your dog might beg for some (they do love it just like us) do not be tempted. DO NOT FEED CHOCOLATE TO YOUR DOG.
A SWEET TOOTH FOR SUDDEN DEATH Many people think of chocolate as the ultimate treat, but this innocent, but fattening treat can be deadly for dogs. A lively Golden Retriever, finding an open bog of chocolate morsels, wolfed them down as fast as he could. His owner, thought little of the incident, and cleaned up the mess left by his pet. That evening the dog collapsed and died. What would cause a healthy dog to die so suddenly, a new canine virus, no, the ailment was a little known, but nonetheless deadly problem called Chocolate Toxicosis, or chocolate poisoning. The element in the chocolate that is so deadly to dogs is a substance called Theobromide. The size of the dog and the type of chocolate have a bearing on the amount of " GOODIE " that will cause toxic results. So chocolate is not a treat that pet owners should dole out to their unsuspecting but loving canine friends. Holidays are especially dangerous times, when large quantities of candy and other chocolate treats may be found in the home. Chocolate has a tempting taste that pets and owners alike can enjoy. Since our dogs are often considered members of the family, it is natural to wish to share our treats. But this is one treat that should be kept out of his or her reach. Dr. John Sullivan, a toxicologist at the University of Illinios Veterinary Medical School, says the problem of toxicosis " can be significant, especially during the holidays when people do a lot of baking with chocolate. The unsweetened or baking chocolate is the most dangerous as it contains the highest percentage of Theobromide per ounce; 400 MG. per ounce as compared to 45 MG. per ounce in milk chocolate. Usually toxic symptoms will occur when 100 MG. of Theobromide are ingested per kilogram (2.2 pounds) of animal’s weight. So a 10-pound poodle can succumb with the ingestion of just 1-ounce of baking chocolate. The chart below shows the toxic amount of milk chocolate and baking chocolate for various weights of dogs. Although these show life-threatening levels, ingestion of smaller amounts can cause your pet to experience considerable discomfort.
Chocolate cont. The symptoms of Theobromide poisoning are numerous and they appear within a few hours or up to a day after the chocolate ingestion. Chocolate stays in the animals stomach a long time. As the Theobromide is absorbed into the bloodstream, the animal can exhibit the following symptoms;
There is no antidote for Theobromide poisoning. Treatment is geared toward supporting the animal’s basic life functions, preventing further absorption of the chocolate, hastening elimination, and treating the symptoms. If less than 2 hours have passed since the ingestion, the first step is to induce vomiting. This should get rid of 70% of the stomach’s contents. The Chocolate can melt and form a ball in the stomach, which can be difficult to remove. If the dog has eaten an amount that can be toxic (see chart) it is not enough to just induce vomiting. The animal should be placed under the care of a veterinarian until the danger is passed. The vet will give the dog repeated doses of activated charcoal to move the poison through the system faster and with less absorption. The vital signs (heart rate and respiration) must be carefully monitored during this treatment. The best treatment is prevention of the accidental ingestion. Keep your dog out of danger by;
chocolate. Chocolate toxicosis is a killer, but it is a killer that can be prevented from killing. If you think your dog has ingested a dangerous amount of chocolate, consult a veterinarian at once. If you move please give the following information to the Breeder of your dog and send a copy to the Canadian Kennel Club. This is so that if the Dog gets lost (and unfortunately many do) we can trace you and return the dog to you.
EMERGENCY b Earlene Luke WELL, THERE IT IS, RIGHT IN YOUR LAP...THAT FIRST EMERGENCY and it can be anything from your dog being hit by a car, to a puppy tummy upset. The first and cardinal rule ---DON’T PANIC. Take a few seconds to compose yourself so that you can be effective and efficient in what you need to do. Try to address the situation as rapidly and calmly as possible. Secondly, be prepared. Most emergencies occur at home, so your veterinarian’s phone number should be posted along with other emergency numbers, including the poison control center. An emergency service should be one thing you consider when choosing your vet. None really mind being rolled out of bed at 2 a.m. if it is a real emergency. Also, if you have a whelping due, contact your vet and let him/her know the due date, difficult whelping can and do happen, even if YOU know they won’t, and nothing is more nerve racking than dialing that number and getting a recording!
Essentially these are the same things you have on hand for yourself if you become ill. These of course are for minor problems such as intestinal and stomach upsets, mild and minor wounds, etc. Do not use any prescription drug on a dog if it has been prescribed for another, and you should avoid using a drug after the expiration date. Keep a dog medical book on the shelf, not necessarily to do your own diagnosing, but to help you in emergencies such as broken toenails, stopping external bleeding, splinting a broken bone, etc. Get one that is easily read and provides an emergency or first aid chapter. Having one on the shelf can often save your sanity. When calling your veterinarian in an emergency situation, try to give him an organized analysis. Give cause if you know it, if the dog was hit by a car, or ate garbage recently. Then give attitude, color, abnormal conformation, temperature, and any obvious signs such as coughing, weakness, vomiting, difficulty passing urine, diarrhea, etc. Evaluating the color of the gums, tongue and conjunctive (membrane lining eyelids) for its color can be beneficial. It is usually bright pink, perhaps having black spots or splotches. Watch for: BLUE—usually from not getting enough oxygen into the circulating blood which could be from heart failure to something stuck in the throat: WHITE—probably shock: GRAY or raspberry jam color—usually reflects severe infection or stress producing toxic shock reaction. If there is bad perfusion (capillary filling time—check by pinching gum over fang-it should blanch only momentarily and then become pink again very fast), consider it a veterinarian emergency. Take the dog’s temperature: Normal is 100-102 degrees: below this is a sign of shock: 102-106 is a sign of fever. ANYTHING over 103 should be treated very fast. Over 107 can only be tolerated for a short period of time before producing permanent damage or death. LAST, but not least, since this is outdoor season, know the names of shrubs, plants, insecticides, etc., you will be using in and around your kennels and grounds (and also what your neighbors have and are doing). Walking your dogs along country roads? Remember farmers and highway departments use a very lethal weed killers. Experience can and does teach us a great deal over the years, but don’t always rely on it, that’s what you are paying your veterinarian to KNOW about, and quite often it will pay you off, as we well to know what is and what isn’t an emergency. Published in "The Fox" NOTES ON FOX TERRIER TRAINING By Billie Lou Robison. Fox terriers have to be one of the most intelligent and quick-witted of all breeds. Alas-for the trainer-that in itself can be a problem. They’ll out-think you every chance they get, it’s all a part of the game as far as they are concerned. There are different degrees of intelligence, we’ll try to break them down for you:
Mix together and put into a pan and bake in a slow 350-degree oven for about 20 minutes. (should spring slightly like a cake). Cool and then cut into squares. You can freeze the extra. I do a double batch and put them in plastic bags. To make chicken mixture, stew (or pressure cook) a chicken (bones and all) until the bones are soft. Take the meet and blend it all. (Boil the beef and then blend it) Mix the blended chicken back into the broth. Freeze any extra for next time.
Peanut Butter Cookies for Dogs
Preheat oven to 350 degrees. Combine dry ingredients in large bowl. In blender of food processor, process milk, peanut butter and molasses until smooth, add to dry ingredients. Using hands, knead dough thoroughly. Roll out to ¼" thickness and cut with cookie cutters. Bake for 15 - 20 minutes or until lightly browned. Turn off heat and let biscuits cool in oven. Store in airtight container.
The best way to find these books is to contact a large pet outlet (your local pet shop may carry the newer ones) or contact a book specialist. Direct Book Service, 8 Summer Creek Place, Box 3073 Wenatchee, Wa.,98801 Phone 1-800-776-2665 Dog House Pet Supplies Edmonton, Alberta Phone 1-800-661-5638 Dogs in Canada 89 Skyway Ave., Suite 200, Etobicoke, Ont. M9W 6R4 Phone 416-798-9778 Fax 416-798-9671 Order Desk 1-800-250-8040 Dog Ink 45 Cooper Lane, Larchont, NY, 1105538 Phone 1-914-835-9029 SOME PEOPLE TO CONTACT FOR OBEDIENCE CLASSES
Your pup was born on Sire: Dam: Tattoo Number __________ Rt./Lt. Flank Back to Living With Smooth Fox Terriers home page. | |||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
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