Installing a LE0511W into a Kato n-scale SD45
 
This is fairly straight forward.  There is room to fit the decoder beneath the rear light-board if the frame is modified.  This is outlined in the following pictures. 
1. Disassemble the engine by pulling off the body, and removing the motor and drive chain, and the trucks.  Mark the motor with a permanent ink pen on the top, so you can reassemble it correctly. 
2. Strip everything off the frame, it will need to be modified.  The original is shown below, the red arrow indicated the marked areas to be removed. 
Rear
3. Here is the frame apart, before modification.  The areas to be removed have been marked with a black pen.  The gold coloured bearing retainer spring should be removed to protect it from damage. 
Rear
4. Here it is after the two halves have been milled.   I used a large flat file, which worked well, better than a Dremel.  Make sure you clean the frames afterwards as any material that gets into the motor will ruin it. 
Rear
5. The Light-boards need to be modified, the red lines denote the cuts to be made.  In addition, the places where the decoder wires attach are indicated by the coloured arrows.  Note the blue wire attaches to two places.   In addition, the resistor on the rear light board needs to be changed from a 1/4W to a 1/8W to leave more room for the decoder.  I used a 470 ohm resistor in place of the 270 ohm rsistor that was in place originally. 
6. Cut the wires on the decoder as follows:
  •  White:     7.5 cm
  •  Yellow:    1.5 cm
  •  Orange:   6.5 cm
  •  Grey:       6.5 cm
  •  Blue:       7.5 cm, strip 2 cm from decoder, to allow the extra connection
  •  Black:     2.2 cm

  •  Red:       2.2 cm
7. Below shows the frames ready to be reassembled.  The decoder is visible under the rear light board.  The orange decoder wire goes to the top of the motor, and the grey wire goes to the bottom of the motor.  The frame +/- the plastic motor holder have to be modified to give room for the motor wires to get to the decoder.  These are indicated by the red arrows. Be very careful, solder the wires close to the brush caps.  On my first attempt, one of my solder joints pierced through the black electrician's tape and shorted to the frame and blew up the decoder.  I have been very careful here to not have sharp solder connections!  Others have made more radical modifications to the frame to avoid this, for example, see:  http://mysite.mweb.co.za/residents/grela/katou30c.html and in particular this picture: u30cpic6.jpg
Rear
7. The finished installation, note how the motor wires and the wires to the front light board fit neatly into the gap between the frame halves. 
9. Another view, you can see the decoder nestled under the rear light board.  The 1/8 W 510 ohm replacement resistor is just visible under the light board, indicated by the red arrow. 
Hints:
  • Keep the filings FAR away from the motor, else they will ruin the motor.
  • Be very carefull when soldering the lugs on the motor, you can easily melt the plastic support, or the plastic on the motor. 

  • The wires running the length of the frame can fit between the two halves, as shown above, with a small amount of tape to hold them in place.