So far it looks like it'll need the following new parts;

Shock absorber bushings
Oil filter screen
New front brake Rotor
New front brake pads
brake caliper rebuilding kit
new tires
new springs for stands (side and kick)
instrument cover (plastic scratched as usual)
new seat cover

I haven't inspected the drive components but I have spares for the Helix including new fuel pump, new regulator, new clutch pads and a couple of good used belts as well as two spare carburetors and a used muffler.

I also have a couple of spare "parts motors"  that can be used  to replace any non-moving parts. I prefer to replace moving parts with new.  Aside from the Chinese body parts shown I also have some original body parts and spares.

There is the usual surface rust that accumulates on a scooter driven year round. None of it is so bad that it can't be removed with wire wheel, sandpaper etc. The most important part is to remove all the parts to make sure they're clean and well sanded in even the non-visible parts. Once I've sanded, cleaned and painted each part it can be re-assembled. The paint will be black enamel as it's good at preventing abrasion and has good weather resistance. Theres a lot of nooks and crannies to get at.

The engine has good compression  but  it has issues.  I came into possession of it because it had "electrical problems" (no spark) that couldn't be easily diagnosed by the shop. Everything tests OK according to the service manual but there was no spark at the plug. The next step would have been tearing apart the motor and replacing  the alternator and pulse generator which would have been very expensive with no guarantee of results. Take a look at the picture of the scooter at the top again and you can see how both the owner  and shop concluded pouring money and time into it with no guaranteed results was not a sensible option.

After a lot of cleaning of the engine and case, I removed the rh crankcase cover . There was a small metal tab shaped in a 90 degree bend that was loose at the bottom of the crankcase. Nothing visible to show where it came from.  The flywheel had damage on the tab that triggers the ignition pulse. It was like a crater with an indent and then a ridge around the crater  that stuck up considerably.  The pulse generator "nub" doesn't appear to have any damage but because the pulse generator is mounted on the cover, it's not easy to measure if  the distance between flywheel tab and pulse generator  is increased. The damage could possibly prevent a pulse from signalling the cdi/ICM to send  current to the ingnition coil.  

I could repair the damage to the tab and then adjust the pulse generator mounting bolts to decrease the distance to see if that produces a spark. It would be a trial and error process. I've decided to wait till I can afford a flywheel puller (more expensive than the others in my collection) as I'll eventually have to pull the flywheel to see if I can locate where the broke metal tab came from originally. Might as well check out everything (like oil pump clearance) as well as I'm exploring and theres lots of other clean-up work to keep me busy in the meantime.