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Mount Assiniboine 3618 m

Mount Assiniboine Provincial Park, B.C.

The classic (helicopter) view of Assiniboine from Lake Magog

Mount Assiniboine, also called the "Matterhorn of the Rockies" is the highest peak in the Southern Rockies. The R.C. Hind hut on the north side is the starting point for the two most popular routes, although it is a l-o-n-g walk in. You can also helicopter to nearby Assiniboine Lodge and save a full days' walk. The north ridge (5.5) from the Hind hut is an exciting alpine rock ascent, best done when dry. That usually takes until August.  Most folks don't know it, but there is a less technical (near-scramble) route on Assiniboine's south side that merely diverges from the normal route up Lunette Peak. This was Assiniboine's first ascent route, and can be readily reached from Highway 93 in British Columbia. Click here for detailed approach info for Assiniboine's southern approach/climb.

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  Close-up view of standard North Ridge route of Mount Assiniboine from near the R.C. Hind Hut. The typical approach from Spray Lakes Reservoir is a long day's walk in via Bryant Creek. We cheated and helicoptered into Assiniboine Lodge in late afternoon, then climbed to the hut above Lake Magog by evening via the route called Gmoser's Ledges.

After leaving the hut at 4:30 a.m., we have a fine early morning view from partway up the north ridge. My partners are completely unaware of  strange red halos surrounding them. We managed to get past the few remaining snow patches without crampons, chopping a few steps as we moved steadily upwards.

Pausing for a break about 1/3 of the way up Mount Assiniboine, early morning, early August. The peak left of centre is The Marshall.

   Looking southeast towards Mount Eon from halfway up Assiniboine. There are other fine peaks in this area that see very few ascents (Like Mount Eon). Today  looks like perfect weather for the climb; no point in rushing.

At the crux rock step (about 5.5-ish) we belayed and Bob put in a bit of protection for one ropelength of our 9mm rope. There were also fixed pins. If this route is not snow-free, there are several other parts where it is necessary to belay and accordingly, the route becomes much more serious, requiring crampons too. Fortunately, we were blessed with ideal conditions.

  The last few hundred feet is simply a walk along the ridge to the snowcapped top. A large cornice protrudes over the east face, a quick, but unforgiving way down if you walk out on it. Views from the top were fabulous. We dawdled and took 6.5 hours up. One fellow wore plastic boots but found them a poor choice for Rockies rubble.

  Rappelling a rockband on the descent, with Marvel Lake far below. We rappelled in three places, but when I realized I'd left my ice-axe above at the rap station, I had to climb back up to get it, then downclimbed it to rejoin my friends. I guess we didn't really need to rap that one after all.  By comparison, some Squamish rock-jocks didn't like the loose rock and did 10 rappels; a Quebecois group attempted to belay going up and never did reach the top.  We were back to the hut by suppertime, about 6.5 hours for descent.

Assiniboine's North ridge is a fine climb, fairly loose in places but much scrambling if dry. The trip is usually done in 3 days; seldom less. Parties normally walk out via Bryant Creek (a long day), which we did, in a snow storm, no less.  It took 12 hours.

This was one of the early Rockies 11,000 footers I climbed and at that time, I looked forward to climbing others like Goodsir, Edith Cavell and maybe even Robson someday. Back then I hadn't heard much about Mounts Rainier or Whitney but they too would later be on my list.  When I wasn't trying the bigger peaks, or nursing a bad back, I'd be out scrambling up mountains --- less taxing than climbing.

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© all photos copyright by the author 1999.