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Mount Edith Cavell 3363 m
Jasper National Park, Alberta (click for map)
Mount Edith Cavell from Cavell Lake
The East Ridge of Mount Edith Cavell (left skyline, above) is one of the finer rock climbs to a major Rockies summit. This mountain is quartzite, and the climb reminded me of the classic northwest ridge route of Mount Sir Donald. Edith Cavell dominates the skyline south of Jasper townsite, and is about an hour's drive east of Mount Robson. When free of snow, much of it is scrambling, but one pitch of about 5.3 or 5.4 and the likelihood of needing crampons elevates it to a technical climb. If you hit the right conditions and weather, this is a superb climb on a well known local landmark, and a major summit in its own right, too.
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An early morning
view to the southwest from the the lower section of Mount Edith Cavell's east ridge.
A hiking trail, then slopes of hard frozen snow and rubble led to here. Crampons were
necessary.
Looking down the north face
towards Cavell Lake (middle of photo) and the silty mud puddle visited daily by hordes of
tourists. It is a long drop if you slipped here: You might even have time to try flying
before the thud.
Here is the upper part of the east ridge where the actual
climbing starts (about 5.4 at the crux). Until this point, the route is largely scrambling
if it's dry. The crux step is about halfway up this ridge and the ridge drops off sharply
on either side. Although I carried a light rope to haul my pack up this step, it stayed in
my pack. I was a way-honed dude that day.
After the
crux, time for a sit-down to savour the scenery, solitude and my soon-to-be success. I was
the only one on the route this fine August day. Lucky me!
Going ape on Mount Edith Cavell. If there is a metal cross on top, it was
still buried in snow that time. The sky was surprisingly clear and I could identify the Lyell Peaks, Mounts Robson, Columbia, Bryce and even Mount Whitney in California! Well okay, not Whitney, but it was really
clear. Really.
The descent route goes down the opposite side of the peak and is easier, but it is a long walk back around to the parking lot. Some folks do the peak by this easier west side route. My total time was just over 11 hours, round trip. After having done this route, it became clear why it is such a classic: I would even do it again.
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© all photos copyright by the author 1999.
"Wish I had 2 arms..."