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Mount Hood, Oregon 11,239 ft (3426 m)

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Mount Hood's south side and ski area

Mount Hood, a dormant volcano in the Cascade Range, sits 50 miles east of Portland, Oregon and is the highest peak in the state. This picture shows the south side that has a year-round ski area and it is this side which sees most of the ascents. In the right conditions you can ski a good part of the way up, but there is little actual mountaineering challenge. Rotten rock on this mountain poses a significant hazard, so early starts are the norm. There are many different ascent routes, though most cross glacier or are prone to avalanche and rockfall. I chose the Cooper Spur route on the northeast side to avoid glacier and crowds. This is probably one of the better and safer routes for a competent soloist.

Cooper Spur route follows the ridge from left to the summit at the right. A hump at the left is known as "Tie-in Rock." Because of hot August temperatures, I started from Cloud Cap Inn by moonlight so I could be on top by dawn. These pictures were taken on descent.

Close-up of Cooper Spur with red line I followed up. After starting way too early, I huddled in the lee of Tie-in rock until I could see where to head up the snow slope. The crux is a short exposed fifty degree snow slope where people have fallen and been killed, so this is not a beginners route. Firm snow is a necessity and it is wise to have a pre-dawn start.

Crumbly rock pinnacles alongside the route near the top. I was the only one here this day.  From the parking lot at Cloud Cap Inn, an ascent is feasible in 4 hours or less if you're fit and climb the snow slopes quickly.

Here's how it looked to the west as you top out on Mount Hood: desolate and smoggy!

A hazy view to the south from the top of Mount Hood, taken about 7:00 a.m. I've noticed a lot more haze in the Cascades than in the Canadian Rockies. Looking north, it was hard to even see Mounts Rainier and Adams. Although the views do not encompass nearly as many other peaks as a Rockies panorama from Mount Assiniboine or Bryce would, it was very satisfying to be up there alone anyway, since back problems had hampered my ascents for a year or two previously. I hurried down the same way soon after this shot before the snow got soft and dangerous.

The guidebook I used for this ascent was Summit Guide to the Cascade Volcanoes, by Jeff Smoot.

Additional web info for Hood is available at  http://www.americasroof.com/or.html, and a virtual climb of the normal ascent route is found at http://www.geocities.com/Yosemite/2483/index.htm

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