Nail Care

Some dogs are fairly reasonable to get along with during nailcutting. Some really don't like it. Either they have been hurt during nail cutting, or have very sensitive nails. Some are just sensitive in all ways. I have had a puppy 8 weeks old, that had not been hurt in any significant way, and just had a phobia of having his nails cut. I also rushed him into it, and I had a problem for 8 years of his life, until I bought a nail grinder. Your approach to nail cutting will make a difference to your dog, especially in a young puppy. With a puppy it is best to spend some time, even a few sessions over a few days, just stroking the feet, and touching the nails, gradually building up to the cutting. At this stage you often can tell if you have a dog with a "foot phobia". If the puppy doesn't care about you touching his feet, you will likely have an easier time introducing the nail clippers. When buying nail clippers, it is a good idea to have the dog's eventual size in mind. If the dog is going to have very thick nails, buy a large scissors type of nail clippers. If the dog will have smaller nails, a small guillotine type or small scissors type will be fine. No matter what king of nail clippers you need, the key word, is 'sharp'. A dull, old, hand-me-down clipper will squeeze the nail too much, and this will hurt the dog. You don't need a grooming table for nail clipping, but a table will make your job easier. Some dogs really like having their nails done on the floor, if you are agile enough. Some dogs feel threatened to be turned on their back, because this is a submissive position. Because of this having the dog lie on its side often works the best. Where you choose to cut your dog's nails could possibly get some blood spots on it if you cut too close, so you have to think of rugs and couches when you choose the location. The dog will be a bit nervous so will shed more as well. Blankets and towels will help to protect the surface. Before you cut, please buy a blood stopping powder, often known as quick stop. You can get blood stop sticks as well, but the powder often works best especially for a lot of bleeding. You take some of this powder and push it into the end of the nail to stop the bleeding. You may have to reapply the powder a few times. If the dog goes outside after the bleeding is stopped and gets his feet wet, the bleeding can start again. Reapply powder when the dog is lying quietly.	If your dog has white nails you will be able to see the quick where the blood vessel is. If you have dark nails, don't be fearful, but you have to cut smaller bits off the nail. Doing the nails regularly makes the job easier, because you will be able to get away with a single clip on each nail. You will also learn how long the dog's quick is, and will be able to cut more accurately, the more you do it. The quick does grow if the nail is left alone for too long. In this case a toenail grinder may help, or you have have to have the dog's nails cut under anesthetic and cauterized, either for that purpose alone, or if another procedure is being done. Anesthetics are hard on the dog and are not without risk, so please only consider this very infrequently or in special cases, such as buying an older dog with neglected nails. Then keep the nails up after this. Clip the nail vertically in the first small cut. See diagram. Then cut a bit more if necessary, or just nibble away at the sides a bit to neaten the sharp edge, which will not affect the quick and not hurt the dog. If you cut horizontally, you will cut into the quick even with the first cut. There is more nail on top, so pare away vertically. A grinder or dremel tool, finishes the nail nicely so that the nail will not catch onto rugs or clothing. If a dog is very sensitive with nail cutting, the entire job can be done with a grinder. They make noise, but in general a sensitive dog will prefer this method. All dogs must be introduced to the grinder gently because of the noise. Let the dog see the grinder turned off and sniff it etc. Hold it a few feet away from the dog and turn it on so the dog will become accustomed to the noise. Be gentle and reassuring. Even if you cannot begin to grind the nails the first session, just wait, and you will be pleased about how the dog takes to the grinder. To use a grinder hold the nail firmly between the thumb and finger. Grind the edges and top of the nail, and keep inspecting the nail and consider the dog's reaction. The nail can still bleed with the grinder but not as instaneously as with a clipper. Before it gets to this point of bleeding, the dog will let you know that you've done enough. The nail bed with look quite pink if you go too far. It may take several sessions to get the nails down to where they should be. Exercising your dog can keep the nails worn down quite well. However, some dogs pads are very thick and the nails will not wear down on pavement.
Humor: I knew one dog that bit his own toenails and never needed them cut. Interesting at best. But he didn't do a really good job either.
Here is a photo of nail care tools and products. The electric grinder or rechargable grinder are handy tools. A grinder can be used for finishing the nail, so there is a nice surface that cannot snag on carpets, upholstery or clothing. Sometimes it is more easily accepted by the dog that doesn't like having its nails cut. The nail clippers are the only tool most people need. But, as above, a must have is quick stop powder, for stopping bleeding if you groom the nail too close.
Dogs that have never had their nails trimmed can have the nails curl into their pads - very painful. A milder example of nails not being trimmed often enough is this photo of a 13 year old basset. The nails haven't been trimmed for about a month. She stands with her legs flexed and the long nails are throwing her posture off, and affecting her gait. A dog of this age could possibly be in pain when unable to stand and walk normally due to long nails.	See the same dog with her nails cut. Her posture is much better in this photo. She walks better as well. This is one of those otherwise sweet dogs, who turns into something like a wild boar during nail trimming. This is often why people neglect trimming their dog's nails at the right time. I'm guilty of it too.
Here is the 'before' nail trimming photo of the same old girl from the front. Doesn't she have ugly big nails?	Here is the 'after' nail trimming photo of the same old girl from the front. Doesn't she look nicer?
	And here is a close up of TOO LONG nails.
This basset does not have very nice front legs. In this photo the nails are much too long. Notice how the right front leg problem is accentuated with the long nails.	With the nails trimmed, the right front leg looks much better. This offers proof that the dog is much more comfortable with shorter nails.
This is the same dog as in the previous close up photo - the "before" picture.	He looks much better with his nicely trimmed nails. Happier too.
Little Miss Perfect. This dog is the dog owner's dream dog. Nice front legs, and she has slow growing nails with short nail beds. But you don't always get this lucky. She still needs care, but not as much care as the dog with diamond hard, fast growing nails with a long nail bed.	The nail grinder in the photo above, can help you turn the nail back gradually, and the nail bed actually shortens over time, IF you keep up the weekly grinding, going back a tiny bit farther each week. The nails still won't look like the dog on the left, but you can approach this effect with the grinder.