Conrad Bérubé OIC 2007 Guinea Farmer-to-Farmer Report-- Table of Contents


		Field Trip Report-Daily Log	Volunteer Trip Report	Instructional Drawings	letter to FAPI	letter to FLSPT			bee stuff

Appendix A. List of training materials and texts	Appendix B. Principal assignment contacts during FtF activities	Appendix C. Numbers of individuals trained during FtF activities	Appendix D. Contacts	Appendix E. Data Collection Sheet	Appendix F. Excel spreadsheet data roll-up	Appendix G. Draft labels	Appendix H. role play lesson plans	Appendix I. Steam Distiller plans	Appendix J. churns for making shea butter

Appendix I.: steam distiller plans

2 LITER ESSENTIAL OIL
STEAM DISTILLATION KIT
The BEST essential oil steam distiller

................. Click this image

The perfect systems for making your own STEAM DISTILLED essential oils!

For info on our BIG distillers
33 liter................................... 85 gallon

Click the photos

The EOV2000 is a true vertical steam distillation unit made from scientific-grade borosilicate glass, specifically designed for easy steam extraction of essential oils from plant materials by the non-chemist at home, resulting in the highest purity essential oils

Unlike other steam distillation units on the market, EOV2000 offers true "dry steam" distillation in an all glass (Pyrex) system. Coupled together with ground glass joints, there are no hoses or rubber stoppers in contact with your product...it's ALL glass!

The "open-to-atmosphere" design means that steam pressure can never build up in the system, making the system much safer to operate and insuring that the distillation process will take place at exactly 100 degrees C (at sea level) and not a degree higher!

EOV2000's simple design addresses a number of problems associated with competitives stills, Because of it's "vertical" design, the biomass flask stays dry, none of the "boiling water" is wastefully condensed and trapped in the biomass flask, and because it uses separate flasks for boiling and biomass, there's further insurance that overheating or possibly burning your plant material will never happen.

Our UNIQUELY DESIGNED RECEIVER (click for info) traps up to 20mL of either "heavier than water" oils or "lighter than water" oils while automatically draining away the excess condensed water (the "Hydrosol", that can be kept for many purposes) thus allowing you to start the distillation and let it proceed on it's own without constant need of attention.

When the distillation is complete, the receiver then doubles as a tapered separatory funnel, allowing you to easily separate your prized oil from the remaining water.

Our other distiller sizes, accessories, and prices

CLICK HERE
To learn about different things you can do with this kit,
larger distillers we make, and accessories for our kits

HERE IS WHAT'S IN THE KIT:

ALL NEW BOROSILICATE (generically called "pyrex") GLASSWARE:
* 2 liter boiling flask, 24/40 sized ground glass joint and side port for water addition
* 2 liter Biomass flask, 24/40 joint on bottom and large 45/50 joint on top
* Still Head, 45/50 with built in thermometer adapter and male spherical condenser joint
* West Condenser, with a spherical joint that allows a wide range of alignment without risk of breakage or loss of seal integrety
* Receiver/separatory funnel with teflon valve
MECHANICAL PARTS:
* New hotplate with built-in flask support rod (240 volt for EUROPE available at no additional cost)
* Two laboratory Clamps
* Two 5 foot HOSES for condenser water
* WATER PUMP used for circulation of ice water thru the condenser (pump is not included in 240 volt kits)
* WIRE SCREEN with ceramic heat dissipator to keep the flask happy while on the hotplate
* Packet of joint grease and vial of boiling stones
* Keck Clamps to hold condenser, receiver, and still head together
* Simple assembly and operation instructions (click on the link below to view the instructions)

Basically everything you need to open the box, harvest your herb garden, and make Essential Oils!

Larger Distillers, Optional Accessories

Larger Bio-flask sizes up to 10 liters, and other additional setup options are availiable on request
CLICK HERE to learn about different things you can do with this kit,
larger distillers we make, and accessories for our kits

* Complete instructions for this distiller kit*

ESSENTIAL OIL DISTILLER OPERATING INSTRUCTIONS

Directions

IMPORTANT

If you are working on a tile sink or other hard surface, LINE IT WITH A TOWEL and also line your washing sink with some of that plastic liner availiable from the grocery store.
You don't want to be amazed at how easy it is to break glassware!!!

LOADING THE BIOMASS FLASK

It's Ok to use any consistancy of plant matter in the biomass flask with exception of powder. Powder may clump and cause the bottom opening to plug, or it may just "fall in" and get into the boiling flask. If you're distilling rosemary, for example, you'll be able to just cram the flask full and distill!, because it's big and bushy. But if you're using cut plant matter or finer consistancy material, you might want to insert the little stainless steel screen tube that we provide into the bottom of the flask, so the plant material doesn't clog the hole or fall down it.
Just fold it a little at it's top and stick it up in thru the bottom of the flask.
In any case, STUFF THE FLASK FULL with plant material!!
Using a plastic or wooden dowel about 1.2" in diameter will help to pack it in. DON"T use metal or you'll break the flask!

Assembling the backplate/support rod holder/ hardware

The backplate is provided as a heat-shield to prevent line-of-sight infra-red heat from the hotplate from heating up the reciever as the distillation process continues.
Screw the back plate on to the rear of the hotplate using the two #8 screws provided.

Place support rod into the clamp built into the rear of the hotplate by squeezing the top and bottom of the clamp together and inserting the rod thru the holes.
Now Assemble the two clamps to the support rod and placing them both high up on the rod. Leave the screws snug but not tight.
Here's a photo of how the clamps assemble:

Last, place the square wire mesh pad onto the stove, centered on the stove heater-coils, ceramic side up.

Putting the Glassware together

Ground glass joints will freeze together if not properly lubricated!

Three small packets of Silicone joint grease compound have been provided. Before assembling any of the ground glass joints, it is recommended that you first put a tiny dab of grease on the male end and wipe it into a line using a toothpick or your finger. Then assemble the joint, twist it gently into it's socket, rotating it at least one rotation to spread the grease around. If you have the right amount, the joint connection will rotate smoothly and become slightly "clear" to the eye. Too much grease- it will spin with very little friction and you'll have grease mushing out everywhere; too little and the joint will not become "clear" as you press on it and rotate it, and it will feel sticky. It actually takes very little grease to do the job. The amount in the vial may seem small, but it should last at least a month or two with daily use of the still.

Hooking the Hoses to the Condenser:

The hoses will slip on to the condenser very easily if you first heat their ends up with a match or lighter to soften them. Be careful not to burn the ends! When you have the hose end heated and soft, wet the glass fitting with some saliva and push the hose on.

Glass and clamps setup

Start by filling the boiling flask about 2/3 full with water (a little more is OK but no more than 2/3 maximum). Since you're distilling the water, tap water is OK, but you may want to use distilled or purified water so you don't get things like chlorine vapors coming into your biomass . There is a small vial of boiling chips provided. Drop 2 or 3 of them into theboiling flask- these chips promote even, controlled boiling. (IMPORTANT to do this especially when heating solvents!). Grease the biomass flask joints and assemble the biomass flask to the boiling flask (pre-loaded with plant material of course).

Place the biomass flask on top of the boiling flask, center the flasks on the burner, and secure the flasks using the upper clamp, attached to the top neck of the biomass flask.

NOW lightly grease both ends of the steam transfer tube and drop it into the top of the biomass flask. Clip the condenser to the transfer tube using the provided red plastic "Keck" clamp.

Last, FILL the receiver (preload it) with distilled water- close the stopcock and pour in enough water to make it come out the drain tube.

IF YOU DO NOT PRELOAD THE RECEIVER WITH DISTILLED WATER...

As the distillation process begins and receiver fills up with condensed water, the water's level will eventually rise above the bottom level of the outlet pipe. You will likely have a small quantity of essential oil floating on the surface in the receiver by then, and you'll notice that a small "plug" of it gets caught in the receiver's outlet pipe. This oil will be lost into the hydrosol collection flask and will not be easy to recover. If you preload the receiver with water before starting the distillation, this will not happen.

SO preload the receiver with water, and now using the green keck clamp, assemble it to the condenser. You will now use the second clamp provided to hold it in place to the stand/support rod. If you've done it correctly it will look like the photos. The backplate should stand between the heater coils and the receiver, so that heat radiating from the heater does not have a "line if sight" path to the receiver. (this keeps your distilled oil cool)

Place a water glass under the receivers' drip tip to catch the first hydrosol that comes off during distillation. It's best to position it so the drips don't splash as they drip into the water... OR if you are not interested in keeping the hydrosol, you can place the whole still on the edge of your sink so the hydrosol simply drips into the drain and goes away.

WATER FOR THE CONDENSER

The easiest thing you can do is to use tap water to circulate water through the condenser. Water goes IN THE BOTTOM and OUT THE TOP of the condenser. Tap water will work just fine, and you can drain the exiting water to your garden or the sink drain. Experts say chilled water is better, and recirculating it with the pump provided with the kit conserves this precious resource. If you use the pump, use a bucket of ice water and drop the pump in it (it's submersible) to circulate chilled water through the condenser and back to the bucket. In any case, the water only needs to be a trickle, but IT MUST ALWAYS BE MOVING. Once the distillation gets underway, you will be able to tell if your flow is enough by feeling the temperature of the water coming out...if it is cold to luke warm, your flow is enough. If it's warm or hot, turn up the flow. If you use the pump instead of tap water, plan on using up at least three "grocery store" sized bags of ice per distillation.

Be sure to plug the hoses on to the condensers' glass hose-bibs snugly... a hose popping off in the middle of a distillation is a good way to make a real mess! The hose may seem difficult to get on to the condenser fittings- if so, simply warm the end of the hose with hot water or over a lighter or candle flame (don't burn it!) and it will then stretch easily and slip on. (you may have to cut it off with a razor blade later)

BASICALLY THAT'S IT

Turn on the condenser water, Make sure the stopcock on the receiver is CLOSED, Turn the hotplate on FULL HIGH and let it rip!

THE DISTILLATION PROCESS

As the water heats up and starts to boil, you'll see steam starting to finally come out the top as the bionass flask heats up. This takes about half an hour. Eventually you'll finally see that first drip make it's way down the condenser and into the receiver. Then you'll see a layer of oil starting to form... there it is!!
You will likely find that with many plants, the bulk of the oil comes off in the first 10-20 minutes, and the remainder takes 2-4 hours.

FINISHING As the process continues, the oil layer will grow, and when it's all done, you simply turn everything off and let it cool down, remove the receiver, carefully drain off all the water you can by slowly opening the stopcock, and when the water's gone and the oil layer has just barely hit the bottom, quickly close the stopcock.

I then like to clamp the receiver to the support rod and let it hang there for 10 minutes or so, to allow any oil stuck on the sides to make it's way down and join the big puddle. Then finally, open the stopcock and drain the oil into a vial.

HINT
If you wrap your bioflask with a kitchen towel or two, held in place by clothspins, it will insulate the flask somewhat and this will help keep it at steam temperature.
The result will be less steam condensing in the bioflask and returning to the boiling pot, which means more of it will go thru the bioflask and on to the condenser. Your distillation will go faster and you'll create more hydrosol. It's an option with the 2 liter flask, a good idea with a 5 liter, and manditory on a10 liter system.
JUST BE SURE to keep the towel away from the burner or you could cause a fire!!!

CLEANING

I usually just swirl a lot of soapy water around in the parts, and use a bristle brush to clean everything. It's all pyrex, so it can also be put in a dishwasher. It's a good idea to first wipe as much of the joint grease out as you can with a paper towel or kleenex. Otherwise just treat it as any other glass item and wash it as you will. My wife likes to rinse the parts first with a swirl of Vodka to dissolve and remove any oils from the flasks and parts prior to washing them with soapy water.

BE CAREFUL to not clunk the glass against the sink... those plastic liners are nice for safety... most glassware is broken during cleaning!! If the flasks bump into a hard object like a tile counter or porclean sink, they may develop little tiny "star" cracks. These are dangerous- they can be repaired, but if left un-noticed, they can easily cause a flask to crack or break apart at the most inconvenient time, like when it's full of boiling water...BE CAREFUL WITH THE GLASSWARE!!

I've found that using a 1/2" diameter dowel or plastic rod is helpful for quickly poking plant matter and stems out of the biomass flask. Don't be tempted to use metal or you'll break your flask!
Shaking the bioflask over a plastic trashcan also works well to remove finer plant material

Guk in the boiling flask that builds up from the mineral deposits of your tap water can quickly be removed with an overnight soak in vinegar, or if you're in a hurrry, a swirl of muriatic acid (pool acid) or dilute hydrochloric acid. I havn't tried it but a good soak with Lime-away will probably works just as well.
BE CAREFUL with these chemicals, they are dangerous.

I usually do not remove the water hoses from the condenser- I've found that for the most part, simply pouring a little soapy water inside the center tube, plugging the ends with my fingers, and giving it a good shake is usually all that's necessary to clean the condenser, but the water jacket should never need cleaning.
It's a lot easier to just leave the hoses on for storage than risk breaking things trying to get them off each time you use the system
If you do have to remove them and they are stubborn, just use a sharp knife and slit the hose at it's base, and it will come off easily. The only problem with doing this is that your hoses magically get shorter and shorter....

OPTIONAL ACCESSORIES
Click Here to learn about other things you can do with this kit, and other optional accessories availiable.

BOILING and SOLVENTS

Not that you need this information, but in case you have any questions about boiling and what it actually is, why you are supposed to use boiling chips, or perhaps you want to know the boiling temperatures of many common solvents,

Some common shortcomings of other distillers on the market
and how the EOV2000 solves them

Problem:
Lots of water always condenses in the biomass flask- it's unavoidable, and it accumulates and eventually covers up a lot of the plant material I'm trying to distill.
Solution:
In the EOV2000, that water simply drips back down into the boiling flask to be reused, instead of accumulating in the biomass flask being wasted and causing plant material to become flooded and no longer in contact with steam.
The EOV2000 vertical design insures that the biomass stays dry.

Problem:
I have to constantly add water to the steam generator flask
Solution:
Because any water condensed in the EOV's biomass flask automatically drains back down into the boiling flask, the EOV2000 can go for three hours or more without having to add new water to the boiling pot.
There's a ground glass stopper in the side of the boiling flask to make water addition very easy, in case you need to.

Problem:
The distiller takes up the whole room, it's so big and spread out
Solution:
Our vertical design is very compact and doesn't take up the whole kitchen sink!!

Problem:
Uncondensed steam occasionally comes out of the end of the condenser...isn't this potentially loosing precious oil?
Solution:
YES! Inefficient condenser arrangements loose oil!
Unlike systems with vertical "up-going" or traditional 105 degree angled condensers from which uncondensed steam can often escape, the EOV2000 has a vertical "down-going" condenser in which the steam is forced straight down. This insures complete condensation and no chance of steam or product escaping

Problem:
Systems that put the biomass right in the boiling water can heat it above boiling water temperature- 100c, and i don't like my biomass getting any hotter than necessary.
Solution:
EOV2000 is an "opened" system, and allows only steam at atmospheric pressure to touch the biomass, meaning that pressure and/or temperature cannot build up, thus eliminating the possibility of excess temperatures ruining your product.
The biomass can never get hotter than 100 degrees C under any situation.

A photo of the system set up and ready to distill some freshly picked ROSEMARY

Here are some oils I've recently distilled with an identical kit,
from herbs and things in our garden
NOTE
These vials are the result of ONE distillation- (2 liters of the herb),
We packed the 2 liter bioflask full and this is what we were rewarded with!
The quantities vary with the actual type of herb,
when it's picked, where it lives, etc,
but this is a good representation of what you can expect!

This is the distilling head

The water/oil separator

All the individual parts
(hotplate and hoses are included in the kit
but not shown in this photo)

Here is a diagram of it

This is how the receiver works:

CLICK HERE for some fun history of how this product was developed

USA PRICE $399 plus $22 UPS shipping within lower 48 states

7.75% California Sales Tax applies to California customers

CANADA: $399 plus $50 shipping to Canada via "Postal express" only

To place an order for your distiller, please email us at:
gareee@heartmagic.com

USA ORDERS ($22 shipping) simply click to order via:

2 LITER SYSTEM to CANADIA $399+ $50 shipping

2 LITER to AUSTRALIA & NZ $399+ $85 shipping

(240 volt@ no additional cost)

For a complete price list

of all of our other distillers and accessories,
Please Click HERE

Checks, money orders, etc can be mailed to us at:
Gary Stadler
PO box 675561
Rancho Santa Fe, Ca 92067

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SHIPPING VIA UPS ONLY
Shipping/packaging Fees:

$22 shipping within the USA, lower 48 states,

$50 shipping to Canada via "Postal express" only

International orders welcome - we ship worldwide

For shipping to other countries the amount depends on your location.

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