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©Susan Milne, 2011

LYNN CANAL AT SKAGWAY

ALASKA CRUISING OVERVIEW

With remote ports accessible only by sea or air, Alaska makes an excellent cruise destination. The pristine beauty of the 49th state has been attracting an increasing number of cruise passengers. Nearly 60 percent of visitors to Alaska arrive by cruise ship with more than a million disembarking each year.

Historically, the allure of Alaska has attracted travellers since the mid 1800's. After the United States purchased Alaska from Russia in 1868 for $7.2million - that's less than 2 cents an acre - travelers would sail north to discover the remote region known for its vast glaciers. Naturalist, John Muir arrived in 1879 and made many more visits to explore and record his findings. Paddlewheelers were a common site on the west coast by the turn of the century. Steamships from The Alaska Steamship Co., Canadian Pacific and other lines were the forerunners of today's ferry boats and cruise ships.

 

CRUISE ITINERARIES

Cruise ships sail to Alaska on two basic itineraries, Inside Passage and Gulf of Alaska (aka the Glacier Route). A third option is cruising between Alaska and Asia calling at the Aleutians and the Russian Far East:

The Inside Passage


The Inside Passage is the series of channels, bays and fjords along the coast of British Columbia and Alaska. It stretches about 1,000 miles from Seattle to Skagway. This itinerary is a seven-day cruise round trip from Vancouver or Seattle and a 10 or 12-day cruise round-trip from San Francisco calling at the Southeastern Alaskan ports.

When I first sailed this route in 1995, we sailed the entire way north and south staying in sight of land. Today however, part of the voyage is spent in Queen Charlotte Sound and Hecate Strait. The big ships do not hug the coastline all the way north and back. The reason for this is the fact that many are too large to easily navigate the narrow channels especially if there is inclement weather or high winds and it is easier to make good time by sailing "outside", a consideration when you need to sail all the way to Hubbard Glacier in Yukatat Bay as part of your seven-day itinerary. On my Infinity and Vision of the Seas cruises we sailed through the most beautiful and narrowest part of the Inside Passage, the Grenville Channel while sailing north, whcih is an outstanding experience and shows you the real Inside Passage. On other sailings, much of the day was spent in open water. The small adventure and expedition ships of course are able to cruise the real Inside Passage.

Inside Passage Ports of Call:
Juneau, Ketchikan, Wrangell, Sitka, Skagway, Haines, Icy Strait Point, Prince Rupert are the towns which may be on your itinerary. The lovely capital of British Columbia, Victoria, is a port-of-call on itineraries of ships sailing from Seattle and San Francisco or longer cruises from Vancouver. Unfortunately this is all too often just a refueling stop of a few hours so check your itinerary carefully.

Glacier visit:
The highlight of these cruises is the day spent studying glaciers. Ships on this route visit either Glacier Bay with its numerous glaciers, Hubbard Glacier, the longest tidewater glacier in North America, or the twin Sawyer Glacier in spectacular Tracy Arm fjord. (You will sail part of the Gulf of Alaska to get to Hubbard Glacier.) Misty Fjords National Monument, a wilderness reserve established in 1978, is another beautiful area visited by some ships in the Inside Passage.

Gulf of Alaska/Glacier Route:


Ships on this route do not return to Vancouver, but carry on from the Inside Passage, to the port of Seward or Whittier. (Passengers then take rail or motor coach to Anchorage.) This is normally a seven-day, one way journey HOWEVER, 14-day round-trip Vancouver sailings to Anchorage are sometimes offered. Passengers sail from Vancouver on Northbound itineraries or from Seward or Whittier on southbound itineraries.

Ports of Call:
In addition to some of the towns on the Inside Passage route, Hubbard Glacier, College Fjord and Valdez are possible ports of call on the Gulf cruises. (On the 14-day sailings, Kodiak, Homer and other lesser visited ports may be added.)

Glacier visit: Glacier Bay, Hubbard Glacier or College Fjord.

Alaska and Asia/Russian Far East


Positioning cruises at the beginning and of the Alaska season may combine Asia with Alaska. Mid-summer Bering Sea cruises also visit remote areas of Alaska and the Russian Far East sailing between Petropavlosk, Anchorage or Whittier and Nome.

Ports of Call:
May include ports in Alaska, Dutch Harbor in the Aleutian chain, islands of the Bering Sea, Vladivostok and Petropavlovsk in the Russian Far East, the Kuril Islands, ports in Korea, Japan and China. Crystal Harmony sails from Tokyo, Japan to San Francisco via Hawaii.

Glacier visit:
Not always included on these itineraries.

GLACIER BAY, HUBBARD OR SAWYER?

Click here for photos of Glacier Bay and other glaciers.

Glacier Bay is a national park and cruise ships can only enter if they have a permit. In August 2001 a court ruling in Alaska reduced the number of permits and cut cruise ship entries to the Bay. An environmental study is ongoing to determine the impact of cruise ships on the area. For this reason, more ships are visiting spectacular Hubbard Glacier, the longest tidewater glacier in North America, the twin Sawyer Glaciers in dramatic Tracy Arm fjord or College Fjord, renowned for its high number of glaciers, in Prince William Sound. Personally I find Hubbard Glacier the best choice, surpassing Glacier Bay as a thrilling glacier viewing experience.

Check out my photos of the various glaciers and see what you think.

The closer your ship gets to a calving glacier, the better the experience. Today's high-tech vessels can you take a few thousand feet from the glacier face if ice conditions permit.


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Icy Strait Point:

Icy Strait Point is a relatively new Alaska port which continues to welcome more ships. The port has been developed specifically for cruise ship calls. Situated 22 miles west of Glacier Bay at Hoonah, the capital of the Tlingkit people, this area has long been popular with small ship adventure cruises for its abundance of sea and wildlife. Only one cruise ship per day will be allowed to visit the wilderness area. 15 excursions have been organized including brown-bear spotting, whale-watching at Point Adolphus and fly-in fishing tours. Passengers tender ashore at Icy Strait and are welcomed by the local Tlingkit people. At the historic fish cannery they can enjoy cultural shows, learn about the area, sample local cuisine and shop for Native art and souvenirs. There is a wondeful nature walk through the forest and along the beach with spectacular views. A restaurant by the beach serves a variety of food including fresh fish. Be sure to take the shuttle into Hoonah where you are sure to see Bald Eagles "fishing" at the many canneries.


SMALL SHIP, ADVENTURE AND
EXPEDITION CRUISING

Experience the real Alaska aboard the small ships. These vessels stay within the coastal channels and fjords of the Inside Passage. They do not go to the "outside" and sail in open water.

Wath for the small, adventure and expedition ships of Lindblad Expeditions (in association with National Geographic) and American Safari Cruises offering a variety of sailings that bring you closer to shore than the big ships, for a real adventure and expedition experience.

Unique experiences are offered aboard the Aurora Explorer, a working freighter on the B.C. coast which visits remote areas of the Inside Passage and the Nautilus Explorer, a 116-ft boat taking passengers on 7 and 9-night scuba diving cruises along the B.C. and Alaska coast.

Worth noting is the Klondike Express, a owned by Phillips Cruises and Tours. Brad Phillips is a legend in Alaska tourism who has operated the 26 Glacier Cruise for many years. The cruise sails from Whittier to Prince William Sound and College Fjord to study glaciers and wildlife. The new high speed cat is an amazing vessel that cruises at 38 knots with no vibration. It can carry 342 passengers. I recommend this tour if you are spending time exploring Alaska on your own. Princess Cruises has chartered the vessel to transport passengers between Whittier and Valdez for Copper River cruise tours.

For those preferring the "big ships", this kind of nature experience can be acquired by taking excursions from your cruise ships and there is a great variety available. (Or tour independently if you don't like to go in a group.) Cruise ships also have a lecture program and naturalist on board. These programs are very informative and give you the chance to learn about Alaska without giving up a lot of other entertainment and dining options.

Oceania Cruises arrives in 2011 for its first Alaska season. Regatta, at 30,0000 tons and crrying only 670 passengers is one of the smallest of the Big Ships, a good choice if you want to avoid the mammoth vessels not on the Alaska run.

SMALL SHIP / EXPEDITION COMPANIES and links:

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PRE AND POST CRUISE TOURS

Visit more of Alaska, the Yukon or Canada by booking a land tour in conjunction with your cruise. Roughly half of all cruise passengers take a cruise tour. The variety of options available through cruise lines is impressive.

Princess, Holland America Line and Royal Caribbean/Celebrity are the leaders. All three own their own rail cars for the popular Anchorage-Denali Park-Fairbanks rail journey. The private rail cars are a part of the Alaska Rail train on the daily journey north or south.

Princess owns five deluxe riverside and wilderness lodges which are beautifully appointed and have excellent restaurants. The lodges are located the Kenai, Fairbanks, Denali Park, Mt. McKinley and Copper River. I had the opportunity to visit the Copper River Wilderness Lodge when it was under construction. It is situated just outside the Wrangell-St. Elias National Park, the largest National Park in the United States, which boasts the largest concentration of glaciers in North America. Well worth a visit. The journey to or from your ship takes you across Prince William Sound and along the spectacular Richardson Highway. For more details, see my Copper River Lodge article at www.cruisemates.com/articles/feature/PrincessTours.cfm.

I recommend the Hotel Captain Cook in Anchorage for a pre or post cruise stay. The finest hotel in Anchorage, it displays murals and other art work relating to the voyages of the remarkable Englishman, Captain James Cook who explored Alaska in the late 18th century. Cook Inlet at Anchorage is named after him. The hotel has a beautiful restaurant on the 20th floor with a view over the city and several other dining venues. Breakfast is a busy time with so many people heading for ships and tours. I found the breakfast buffet in the Fletcher Bar worked perfectly and it was quiet there compared to other venues.

Pre and Post cruise stays in beautiful Vancouver are a must. The Rocky Mountaineer's Whistler Sea to Sky Climb is a new scenic rail journey from North Vancouver which can easily be taken as a day trip, pre or post cruise. The three-hour rail journey can be taken both directions, or return to Vancouver by coach. A variety of packages are available which include hotel stays in Vancouver, Whistler and Victoria. For more see www.rockymountaineer.com.

Visit the Vancouver Information page for useful planning information.

For companies offering Pre and Post cruise vacations in beautiful British Columbia, see the links section at the end of this page.


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SHORE EXCURSIONS

For very detailed information on what to see in each port plus tips on booking through the cruise line and independently see the Shore Excursions page.

ALASKA'S WEATHER

In one word, Alaska's weather is unpredictable. Any time you have mountains, sea, ocean currents and prevailing winds, you really never know what weather you will find. I have been fortunate on my ventures north. I saw Mt. McKinley on a day that was the clearest in three months. Skagway in September, 2001 was having the hottest day of the year. I have had clear days at Hubbard Glacier in June and September. However, in September 2000 aboard Regal Princess, it was wet and cold every day of the cruise.

The month of May can be beautiful and the Spring flowers are a great attraction at this time. June through August should be the best months but in 2001 it was a wet summer with better days coming in September. However, early snows at higher elevations in September can mean shore excursions are cancelled. On Regal Princess in mid September 2000, the dog sled and horse riding excursions were already finished for the season. By mid August in 2002, Era helicopters had stopped dog sled excursions in Juneau.

The best approach is to be flexible and take Alaska as it comes. A great advantage of Alaska cruising is the fact you have your ship to enjoy even if the weather doesn't cooperate.

To emphasize my point that the weather is unpredictable, these two pictures of the Lynn Canal at Skagway were taken on one year apart. Rainy in 2000 - hot and sunny in 2001: In 2004 it was extremely windy and cold.

2000 2001
September 13, 2000    LYNN CANAL AT SKAGWAY     September 10, 2001


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CHOOSING A SHIP


FEATURES TO CONSIDER WHEN CHOOSING A SHIP FOR ALASKA
SIZE
Ships have increased in size dramatically in the last 10 years. This means more on board space for entertainment and dining options but also more walking to get around. If getting around the ship is a concern for you due to mobility issues or if you are travelling with children or seniors, check the deck plan and make sure your cabin is located close to elevators that take you near the public rooms you want to use the most or choose one of the smaller ships.
NUMBER OF PASSENGERS
A bigger ship doesn't necessarily mean a more crowded ship. Today's ships are being built with space in mind. The Passenger Space ratio is an indicator of spaciousness. (Divide the tonnage by the number of passengers.) A score of 40 or higher is good.
ENCLOSED SWIMMING POOL
An indoor pool is an excellent idea for Alaska sailing where temperatures can be cold. A number of ships have indoor pools or retractable domes (magrodomes) so a pool can be closed in if the weather turns cold and wet.
OBSERVATION LOUNGE & GLASSED-IN PUBLIC ROOMS

The ships of Royal Caribbean and Celebrity are outstanding in these areas. Passengers have a strong connection with the sea aboard these ships because there is so much glass in the public areas. This is also helpful for those who suffer from motion sickness as you never feel closed in or confined on these ships which is something that can contribute to nausea.


Observation lounges are a wonderful place to view sailout, the Inside Passage and Glaciers in Alaska, especially if the weather is inclement. For some passengers though, this feature is unimportant. They would rather be on deck whatever the conditions or on their private balcony. Outstanding observation lounges are found on Celebrity, Royal Caribbean, Celebrity, Holland America, Silversea and Norwegian Cruise Line ships.
PROMENADE DECK
This is a feature that used to be standard. In the '70s, cruise ship architects started shortening the promenade decks, replacing them with more open deck space and jogging tracks around the top of the ship. This just isn't the same as the teak deck encircling the ship, close to the sea. All Holland America Ships have a full promenade, in keeping with their traditional style. Radiance and Serenade of the Seas have a full promenade that allows you to venture out onto the Helicopter pad on the bow, one of the best deck areas on any ship afloat today.
DINING ROOMS
Two deck dining rooms, aft or near aft, with glass walls have made dining an observation experience on today's ships. (Traditionally, the dining room was located midship on a lower deck as this is a more stable part of the ship, preferred by passengers with sea-sickness concerns.)
DINING OPTIONS
There are many places to eat on today's cruise ships. Apart form the formal dining room, there will be at least one restaurant where buffet breakfast and lunch can be enjoyed. These are usually glass surrounded for excellent viewing as you eat.

Other places to eat may include a pizzeria, Sports Bar, Bistro, coffee shop and poolside hot dog/hamburger/pizza or buffet area..
Alternative specialty restaurants abound today. Infinity and Summit honor the liners SS United States and Normandie, respectively, in stunning dining rooms that recreate that era of unparalleled cuisine. Radiance of the Seas, Serenade of the Seas, Carnival Spirit and the Princess and Holland America Line ships all have steakhouses on board.

Most of these restaurants require reservations and a service charge is applied to your stateroom account. They are excellent value with their superior cuisine and service - a very special experience during your cruise.

Room service also varies. Sandwich menues are the norm. Pizza and a full breakfast (instead of continental) can be served in your stateroom on Celebrity. Breakfast can be ordered before you retire at night by as it is in a hotel. Aboard Silver Shadow you may order off the menu and have dinner served in your suite.

Dining has become quite a complex affair on today's ships so be sure to discuss the options with your agent when booking
DINING OPTIONS
Since Norwegian Cruise Lines' freestyle cruising concept was introduced with its flexible dining times, other lines have followed suit. Princess Cruises' Personal Choice Dining and Holland America's As You Wish dining let you eat at different times instead of being tied to a set dinner time. This appeals to many while traditionalists prefer the ritual of first and second seating finding it offers better service as your waiter gets to know your preferences. It also organizes each day so you know when you will be dining. Personally I have found the freestyle dining awkward as I have not always been able to get a table when I wanted to eat. I always opt for a set seating throughout the cruise if the option is available. This does not apply to the smaller ships and luxury lines. On these ships that have always featured open seating dinner, there is rarely a time that a table is not available when you want it.

CASINO
Casinos on the big ships in Alaska are mostly Las Vegas style, some with more glitz than others. The smaller Silver Shadow has a European style gaming room. The minimum age for Casino games is generally 21.
FAMILY CRUISING
More families are cruising to Alaska and children's and teens programs offering supervised entertainment and educational activities are found on board the major lines. The Princess ships offer the Love Boat Kids programs while Norwegian Cruise Line has Kids Crew. Holland America's kids program is called Club HAL. Excellent children and teens facilities are found on Serenade, Radiance and Vision of the Seas and their Adventure Ocean Program is well run. The same program is offered aboard the Celebrity Ships. The Carnival Spirit boasts amazing "family-friendly" children and teens facilities and an excellent program run by on board naturalists throughout the cruise.

Princess has a Junior Ranger program running all season. The lines also offer special educational Alaska program for families.

Children's menues and specially priced soft drink packages for the duration of the cruise are usually available.

Group babysitting in the children's area is often available outside the children's program hours. In Cabin babysitting can usually be arranged through the purser's desk on board and is often payable in cash.

Children's policies change often, so be sure to check anything you are concerned about re. travelling with children with your agent when booking.


TIPPING ON BOARD SHIP

Automatic Tipping: Most ships give you the option of adding tips to your shipboard account for dining room and stateroom staff. The cruise line determines the amount per passenger per day per passenger but it can be amended at the front desk during your cruise. Note that children may be charged the adult rate, or half rate, depending on the line. Again this can be adjusted at the front desk if you so choose.

Traditional Tipping: Passengers give cash to their waiter, assistant waiter, cabin steward and any other people they feel deserve something on the last night of the cruise. Envelopes for the tips are placed in your stateroom for this purpose or you can pick them up at the Purser's/Front desk. Lines using this system issue guidelines for the amount that should be given to dining and stateroom staff.

Bar and Spa Tipping: A 15 percent gratuity is generally added to all beverage tabs. Gratuities for the Maitre d', room service, spa, casino and other staff are usually at the passenger's discretion.

Room Service Tip when service is provided.

Small/Adventure/Luxury Ship Tipping: Aboard these vessels you will find tipping is completely at the passengers discretion, tips may be pooled and distributed to the crew while on luxury lines, gratuities may be included in the fare.

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INSURANCE NOTE:

Once you have made your decision and are in the process of booking your cruise, don't forget to check insurance options carefully. The cruise lines offer insurance packages as do third party travel insurance companies which should be ordered and paid for at the time of booking plus there are companies specializing in travel insurance packages. Pre-existing condition clauses and age restrictions often apply. Your experienced agent should be able to offer assistance in making the right choice. It is easy to be swept up in the excitement of going on a cruise but remember, booking a cruise is a business transaction.



ALASKA CRUISE HOLIDAY LINKS

These sites will help in planning your activities during your Alaska cruise. Companies offering Pre and Post Cruise vacations in British Columbia are included. Also see Vancouver for Cruise Passengers.


Alaska Information:

 .

Alaska Cruising Report

 www.AlaskaCruisingReport.com
Alaskan travel writer Mike Miller's comprehensive site on Alaska cruising, including all the small ships that sail within the State.

Alaska Tour Guide

 www.aktourguide.com

Juneau & Inside Passage:

 www.juneau.com

Skagway:

 www.skagway.com
The Historic Skagway Inn
www.skagwayinn.com
Turn of the century ambience characterizes this Victorian Inn dating back to the gold rush of 1897. Operating first as a brothel, then a boarding house, a family residence and finally an Inn, enjoy the hospitality of Karl and Rosemary Klupar and the fine dining of chef Wendall at Olivia's Restaurant. Stop by for dinner if your ship is sailing late. Transportation to and from your ship provided. Call 907-983-2713. Visit for lunch as part of Princess Cruises' Gourmet Skagway shore excursion.

White Pass Railway
http://www.wpyr.com/index.html
Historic narrow gauge railway from Skagway to the Yukon, one of the most scenic rail journeys in the world.
Ketchikan
www.visit-ketchikan.com
Southeast Aviation
www.southeastaviation.com
Flightseeing tours from Ketchikan. Phone 1-888-359-6478
Phillips' Cruises & Tours
www.26glaciers.com
Get closer to the glaciers in College Fjord and the wildlife in Prince William Sound on the new Klondike Express, a new, high speed catamaran sailing daily from Whittier. It is a smooth and comfortable ride and windows do not fog up. Money back guarantee for anyone who gets sea sick - it just doesn't happen on this excursion.
Alaska Railroad
www.akrr.com
Offers a variety of land packages to see more of Alaska in conjunction with your cruise. Tours are more economical than cruise line pre and post cruise packages.

Gray Line Tours Alaska
www.graylineofalaska.com
Gray Line Tours Seattle
www.graylineofseattle.com

BC/Alberta Travel:

 .
Whistler, BC and the Canadian Rockies By Rail
www.rockymountaineer.com
Spectacular Adventures Inc. 
www.spectacularadventures.com
You'll find helpful vacation planning information in the "Members" and "Links" areas of this travel marketing company site.
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