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Alaska Cruising:


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©Susan Milne, 2008
LYNN CANAL AT SKAGWAY

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Alaska Itineraries

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Sailing  from  Ballantyne  Pier  or
Canada  Place?

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Arriving  in  Vancouver
and  getting  to  your  ship.

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Alaska's  Glaciers

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ALASKA CRUISING OVERVIEW

With remote ports accessible only by sea or air, Alaska makes an excellent cruise destination. The pristine beauty of the 49th state has been attracting an increasing number of cruise passengers. Nearly 60 percent of visitors to Alaska arrive by cruise ship; a total of 800,000 in 2004.

Historically, the allure of Alaska has attracted travellers since the mid 1800's. After the United States purchased Alaska from Russia in 1868 for $7.2million - that's less than 2 cents an acre - travelers would sail north to discover the remote region known for its vast glaciers. Naturalist, John Muir arrived in 1879 and made many more visits to explore and record his findings. Paddlewheelers were a common site on the west coast by the turn of the century. Steamships from The Alaska Steamship Co., Canadian Pacific and other lines were the forerunners of today's ferry boats and cruise ships.

Icy Strait Point:

Icy Strait Point is a relatively new Alaska port which continues to welcome more ships. The port has been developed specifically for cruise ship calls. Situated 22 miles west of Glacier Bay at Hoonah, the capital of the Tlingkit people, this area has long been popular with small ship adventure cruises for its abundance of sea and wildlife. Only one cruise ship per day will be allowed to visit the wilderness area. 15 excursions have been organized including brown-bear spotting, whale-watching at Point Adolphus and fly-in fishing tours. Passengers tender ashore at Icy Strait and are welcomed by the local Tlingkit people. At the historic fish cannery they can enjoy cultural shows, learn about the area, sample local cuisine and shop for Native art and souvenirs. There is a wondeful nature walk through the forest and along the beach with spectacular views. A restaurant by the beach serves a variety of food including fresh fish. Be sure to take the shuttle into Hoonah where you are sure to see Bald Eagles "fishing" at the many canneries.

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CRUISE ITINERARIES

Cruise ships sail to Alaska on two basic itineraries, Inside Passage and Gulf of Alaska (aka the Glacier Route). A third option is cruising between Alaska and Asia calling at the Aleutians and the Russian Far East:

The Inside Passage


The Inside Passage is the series of channels, bays and fjords along the coast of British Columbia and Alaska. It stretches about 1,000 miles from Seattle to Skagway. This itinerary is a seven-day cruise round trip from Vancouver or Seattle and a 10 or 12-day cruise round-trip from San Francisco calling at the Southeastern Alaskan ports.

When I first sailed this route in 1995, we sailed the entire way north and south staying in sight of land. Today however, part of the voyage is spent in Queen Charlotte Sound and Hecate Strait. The big ships do not hug the coastline all the way north and back. The reason for this is the fact that many are too large to easily navigate the narrow channels especially if there is inclement weather or high winds and it is easier to make good time by sailing "outside", a consideration when you need to sail all the way to Hubbard Glacier in Yukatat Bay as part of your seven-day itinerary. On my Infinity and Vision of the Seas cruises we sailed through the most beautiful and narrowest part of the Inside Passage, the Grenville Channel while sailing north, whcih is an outstanding experience and shows you the real Inside Passage. On other sailings, much of the day was spent in open water. The small adventure and expedition ships of course are able to cruise the real Inside Passage.

Inside Passage Ports of Call:
Juneau, Ketchikan, Wrangell, Sitka, Skagway, Haines, Icy Strait Point, Prince Rupert are the towns which may be on your itinerary. The lovely capital of British Columbia, Victoria, is a port-of-call on itineraries of ships sailing from Seattle and San Francisco or longer cruises from Vancouver. Unfortunately this is all too often just a refueling stop of a few hours so check your itinerary carefully.

Glacier visit:
The highlight of these cruises is the day spent studying glaciers. Ships on this route visit either Glacier Bay with its numerous glaciers, Hubbard Glacier, the longest tidewater glacier in North America, or the twin Sawyer Glacier in spectacular Tracy Arm fjord. (You will sail part of the Gulf of Alaska to get to Hubbard Glacier.) Misty Fjords National Monument, a wilderness reserve established in 1978, is another beautiful area visited by some ships in the Inside Passage.

Gulf of Alaska/Glacier Route:


Ships on this route do not return to Vancouver, but carry on from the Inside Passage, to the port of Seward or Whittier. (Passengers then take rail or motor coach to Anchorage.) This is normally a seven-day, one way journey HOWEVER, 14-day round-trip Vancouver sailings to Anchorage are sometimes offered (Tahitian Princess 2008; Pacific Princess round-trip Seattle 2009). Passengers sail from Vancouver on Northbound itineraries or from Seward or Whittier on southbound itineraries.

Ports of Call:
In addition to some of the towns on the Inside Passage route, Hubbard Glacier, College Fjord and Valdez are possible ports of call on the Gulf cruises. (On the 14-day sailings, Kodiak, Homer and other lesser visited ports may be added.)

Glacier visit: Glacier Bay, Hubbard Glacier or College Fjord.

Alaska and Asia/Russian Far East


Positioning cruises at the beginning and of the Alaska season may combine Asia with Alaska. Mid-summer Bering Sea cruises also visit remote areas of Alaska and the Russian Far East sailing between Petropavlosk, Anchorage or Whittier and Nome. (Spirit of Oceanus, Clipper Odyssey).

Ports of Call:
May include ports in Alaska, Dutch Harbor in the Aleutian chain, islands of the Bering Sea, Vladivostok and Petropavlovsk in the Russian Far East, the Kuril Islands, ports in Korea, Japan and China. Crystal Harmony sails from Tokyo, Japan to San Francisco via Hawaii.

Glacier visit:
Not always included on these itineraries.


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SMALL SHIP, ADVENTURE AND
EXPEDITION CRUISING

Experience the real Alaska aboard the small ships. These vessels stay within the coastal channels and fjords of the Inside Passage. They do not go to the "outside" and sail in open water.

Wath for the small, adventure and expedition ships of Cruise West, and Lindblad Expeditions and American Safari Cruises offering a variety of sailings that bring you closer to shore than the big ships, for a real adventure and expedition experience. Cruise West's 114-passenger Spirit of Oceanus sails between Vancouver and Whittier on a wonderful 11-night itinerary sailing the real Inside Passage, across the Gulf of Alaska and Prince William Sound with many ports of call and glacier calls along the way.

American West Steamboat Company's sternwheeler Empress of the North, the most unique experience in Alaska cruising, sails seven night cruises round-trip from Juneau.

For the most exotic Alaskan adventure, Cruise West's 114-passenger Spirit of Oceanus and the 128-passenger luxury ship, Clipper Odyssey, offer cruisetours, round-trip from Anchorage which call at Russian and Northern Alaskan ports and islands in the Bering Sea.

Unique experiences are offered aboard the Aurora Explorer, a working freighter on the B.C. coast which visits remote areas of the Inside Passage and the Nautilus Explorer, a 116-ft boat taking passengers on 7 and 9-night scuba diving cruises along the B.C. and Alaska coast.

Worth noting is the Klondike Express, a owned by Phillips Cruises and Tours. Brad Phillips is a legend in Alaska tourism who has operated the 26 Glacier Cruise for many years. ($119. for the fully narrated 4.5 hour cruise.) The cruise sails from Whittier to Prince William Sound and College Fjord to study glaciers and wildlife. The new high speed cat is an amazing vessel that cruises at 38 knots with no vibration. It can carry 342 passengers. I recommend this tour if you are spending time exploring Alaska on your own. Princess Cruises has chartered the vessel to transport passengers between Whittier and Valdez for Copper River cruise tours.

For those preferring the "big ships", this kind of nature experience can be acquired by taking excursions from your cruise ships and there is a great variety available. (Or tour independently if you don't like to go in a group.) Cruise ships also have a lecture program and naturalist on board. These programs are very informative and give you the chance to learn about Alaska without giving up a lot of other entertainment and dining options.

THE GLACIER BAY QUESTION

Click here for photos of Glacier Bay and other glaciers.

Glacier Bay is a national park and cruise ships can only enter if they have a permit. In August 2001 a court ruling in Alaska reduced the number of permits and cut cruise ship entries to the Bay. An environmental study is ongoing to determine the impact of cruise ships on the area. For this reason, more ships are visiting spectacular Hubbard Glacier, the longest tidewater glacier in North America, the twin Sawyer Glaciers in dramatic Tracy Arm fjord or College Fjord, renowned for its high number of glaciers, in Prince William Sound. Personally I find Hubbard Glacier the best choice, surpassing Glacier Bay as a thrilling glacier viewing experience.

Check out my photos of the various glaciers and see what you think.

The closer your ship gets to a calving glacier, the better the experience. Today's high-tech vessels can you take a few thousand feet from the glacier face if ice conditions permit.

SMALL SHIP AND EXPEDITION COMPANIES and links:

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PRE AND POST CRUISE TOURS

Visit more of Alaska, the Yukon or Canada by booking a land tour in conjunction with your cruise. Roughly half of all cruise passengers take a cruise tour. The variety of options available through cruise lines is impressive.

Princess, Holland America Line and Royal Caribbean/Celebrity are the leaders. All three own their own rail cars for the popular Anchorage-Denali Park-Fairbanks rail journey. The private rail cars are a part of the Alaska Rail train on the daily journey north or south.

Princess owns five deluxe riverside and wilderness lodges which are beautifully appointed and have excellent restaurants. The lodges are located the Kenai, Fairbanks, Denali Park, Mt. McKinley and Copper River. I had the opportunity to visit the Copper River Wilderness Lodge when it was under construction. It is situated just outside the Wrangell-St. Elias National Park, the largest National Park in the United States, which boasts the largest concentration of glaciers in North America. Well worth a visit. The journey to or from your ship takes you across Prince William Sound and along the spectacular Richardson Highway. For more details, see my Copper River Lodge article at www.cruisemates.com/articles/feature/PrincessTours.cfm.

I recommend the Captain Cook Hotel in Anchorage for a pre or post cruise stay. The finest hotel in Anchorage, it displays murals and other art work relating to the voyages of the remarkable Englishman, Captain James Cook who explored Alaska in the late 18th century. Cook Inlet at Anchorage is named after him. The hotel has a beautiful restaurant on the 20th floor with a view over the city and several other dining venues. Breakfast is a busy time with so many people heading for ships and tours. I found the breakfast buffet in the Fletcher Bar worked perfectly and it was quiet there compared to other venues.

Pre and Post cruise stays in beautiful Vancouver are a must. The Whistler Mountaineer is a new scenic rail journey from North Vancouver which can easily be taken as a day trip, pre or post cruise. The three-hour rail journey can be taken both directions, or return to Vancouver by coach. A variety of packages are available which include hotel stays in Vancouver, Whistler and Victoria. The "Sky, Sea and Rail Escape" includes float plane flights to Victoria and Whistler, and a whale watching tour. The "Pre or Post-Cruise Escape" is a three-day package that features a two-night hotel stay in Vancouver, one-day rail tour to Whistler and motorcoach transportation between your hotel and the cruise terminal. For more see www.whistlermountaineer.com.

Visit the Vancouver Information page for useful planning information.

For companies offering Pre and Post cruise vacations in beautiful British Columbia, see the links section at the end of this page.


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SHORE EXCURSIONS

For very detailed information on what to see in each port plus tips on booking through the cruise line and independently see the new Shore Excursions page.

ALASKA'S WEATHER

In one word, Alaska's weather is unpredictable. Any time you have mountains, sea, ocean currents and prevailing winds, you really never know what weather you will find. I have been fortunate on my ventures north. I saw Mt. McKinley on a day that was the clearest in three months. Skagway in September, 2001 was having the hottest day of the year. I have had clear days at Hubbard Glacier in June and September. However, in September 2000 aboard Regal Princess, it was wet and cold every day of the cruise.

The month of May can be beautiful and the Spring flowers are a great attraction at this time. June through August should be the best months but in 2001 it was a wet summer with better days coming in September. However, early snows at higher elevations in September can mean shore excursions are cancelled. On Regal Princess in mid September 2000, the dog sled and horse riding excursions were already finished for the season. By mid August in 2002, Era helicopters had stopped dog sled excursions in Juneau.

The best approach is to be flexible and take Alaska as it comes. A great advantage of Alaska cruising is the fact you have your ship to enjoy even if the weather doesn't cooperate.

To emphasize my point that the weather is unpredictable, these two pictures of the Lynn Canal at Skagway were taken on one year apart. Rainy in 2000 - hot and sunny in 2001: In 2004 it was extremely windy and cold.

2000 2001
September 13, 2000    LYNN CANAL AT SKAGWAY     September 10, 2001


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INSURANCE NOTE:

Once you have made your decision and are in the process of booking your cruise, don't forget to check insurance options carefully. The cruise lines offer insurance packages as do third party travel insurance companies which should be ordered and paid for at the time of booking. Pre-existing condition clauses and age restrictions often apply. Holland America Line has a unique insurance policy which allows you to cancel for any reason, not just for emergency or medical reasons. Your experienced agent should be able to offer assistance in making the right choice. It is easy to be swept up in the excitement of going on a cruise but remember that booking a cruise is a business transaction.



ALASKA CRUISE HOLIDAY LINKS

These sites will help in planning your activities during your Alaska cruise. Companies offering Pre and Post Cruise vacations in British Columbia are included. Also see Vancouver for Cruise Passengers.


Port Promotions Shore Excursions

 www.shoreexcursions.com
Arrange shore tours before you leave home.

Alaska Information:

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Alaska Cruising Report

 www.AlaskaCruisingReport.com
Alaskan travel writer Mike Miller's comprehensive site on Alaska cruising, including all the small ships that sail within the State.

Alaska Tour Guide

 www.aktourguide.com

I Love Alaska:

 www.ilovealaska.com
Information about the entire State.

Juneau & Inside Passage:

 www.juneau.com

Skagway:

 www.skagway.com
The Historic Skagway Inn
www.skagwayinn.com
Turn of the century ambience characterizes this Victorian Inn dating back to the gold rush of 1897. Operating first as a brothel, then a boarding house, a family residence and finally an Inn, enjoy the hospitality of Karl and Rosemary Klupar and the fine dining of chef Wendall at Olivia's Restaurant. Stop by for dinner if your ship is sailing late. Transportation to and from your ship provided. Call 907-983-2713. Visit for lunch as part of Princess Cruises' Gourmet Skagway shore excursion.

White Pass Railway
www.whitepassrailroad.com
Historic narrow gauge railway from Skagway to the Yukon, one of the most scenic rail journeys in the world.
Ketchikan
www.visit-ketchikan.com
Southeast Aviation
www.southeastaviation.com
Flightseeing tours from Ketchikan. Phone 1-888-359-6478
Phillips' Cruises & Tours
www.26glaciers.com
Get closer to the glaciers in College Fjord and the wildlife in Prince William Sound on the new Klondike Express, a new, high speed catamaran sailing daily from Whittier. It is a smooth and comfortable ride and windows do not fog up. Money back guarantee for anyone who gets sea sick - it just doesn't happen on this excursion.
Alaska Railroad
www.akrr.com
Offers a variety of land packages to see more of Alaska in conjunction with your cruise. Tours are more economical than cruise line pre and post cruise packages.

Gray Line Tours Alaska
www.graylineofalaska.com
Gray Line Tours Seattle
www.graylineofseattle.com

BC/Alberta Travel:

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C&S Charters -
best fishing on Vancouver Island
www.candscharters.com
Canadian Rockies By Rail
www.rockymountaineer.com
Whistler Mountaineer Railway
www.whistlermountaineer.com
Maverick Tours
www.mavericktours.bc.ca
Spectacular Adventures Inc. 
www.spectacularadventures.com
You'll find helpful vacation planning information in the "Members" and "Links" areas of this travel marketing company site.
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Copyright ©Susan Milne, 1999-2008