Home
Film Processing Chemicals


Film processing chemicals, with the exception of "fixer" are "One Time" use!
Pour out all other solutions when you have completed your film processing.
This does not apply to paper processing!


Film Developer

I use Kodak's "D-76" developer. Ilford's "ID-11" is virtually the same product, so you can use identical development times. As far as I know, Kodak's "D-76" is only available in powdered form, while Ilford's "ID-11" is a premixed concentrate in a bottle. You must mix Kodak's product in a pail of very hot water and then cool and store it in a tightly stoppered bottle. Ilford and other manufacturers have liquid concentrates available. Personal preference here - use whatever you are comfortable with or have been recommended to use.

There are many other developers available.

Also See - Foto-Info.com - (Black and White Chemistry Info)

  • Dilution Rate

    I prefer to use Kodak's "D-76" or Ilford's "ID-11" at a 1:1 dilution (1 part stock solution to 1 part water) - this will give you negatives that have a finer grain than if you had used full strength developer.

  • Capacity

    You will need as much solution as your processing tanks instructions state - typically 10 ounces of working solution per roll of 35 mm film. Discard after use.

Stop Bath

Used to neutralize the developer solution that remains on the film after the development time has elapsed. Pour the dilute stop bath into the processing tank after the developer has been poured from the tank. "Indicator" type stop bath can be used for both film and prints.

  • Dilution Rate

    Mix a 'working' solution at a concentration of 1:31 (1 part stop bath to 31 parts water). Purchase any brand of "indicator stop" - use the same amount of working solution that you used for the developer - usually 10 ounces per roll of 35 mm film)(solution should be a pale yellow color). The amount of stop that you add to the water here is a little bit more critical than when you are doing print processing.

  • Capacity

    A few drops in 10 ounces of water per roll of 35 mm film is typical. Discard after use.

Fixer - (Also called Hypo)

Used to dissolve any remaining light sensitive silver from the processed film - hence fixing or stabilizing the emulsion. A "hardening" fixer is generally recognized as the best for film to avoid later scratches, while a non-hardening fixer is generally used for print making. I use a non-hardening fixer for both film and print and it works well for me - I have not had any problems with scratched negatives. Its much cheaper and easier to work with one type of fixer.

  • Dilution Rate

    1:4 (1 part stock fixer to 4 parts of water)

  • Capacity

    Save this fixer after use - just invert your development tank over a funnel inserted into your jug of "working solution" fixer, which you use for print processing.

Hypo Clearing Agent

Rinsing your film in water for 30 seconds, and then in Hypo Clearing Agent for 1-2 minutes prior to final washing will allow you to reduce your wash time from 20 to 30 minutes down to 5 minutes of total washing - a great saving in water and time!

  • Dilution Rate

    About 1:4 (1 part stock clearing agent to 4 parts water)

  • Capacity

    Discard working solution after use.

"Wetting Agent"

Kodak "Photo-Flo". After washing your film, add a couple of drops (2 or 3 drops to a film tank full of water) to your wash water and briefly rinse your film in the solution. This treatment will allow the film, while hanging, to drip dry without any water spots.

If you have hard water, then use distilled water for this final step, otherwise you may end up with scum on your dried film.

Chemical "Life Span"

These are approximations, but the information should give you a rough idea. I store my chemical solutions in tightly stoppered plastic jugs and keep them in the darkroom. Darkroom temperature has an impact on chemical life, cooler temperature being better. The same goes for light, lack of light will slow the breakdown of the solutions.

When storing liquids in partially filled bottles, try and squeeze the bottle to eliminate as much air as possible before screwing the top back on. This will help to eliminate oxidation.

  • Stock solution D-76 (film developer)(after being mixed from powder) - about 4 to 6 months in full stoppered bottle.

  • Working solution D-76 - a few hours

Liquid developer should be fairly clear in color, if it appears brown and "milky", then pour it out.

  • Undiluted liquid film developer (such as Ilford's ID-11) - a year or so in a full unopened bottle - half full bottle (air in contact with solution), about 2 months or less

  • Working solution developer (any brand) - 1 day or until exhausted by processing

  • Undiluted stop bath - years

  • Working solution stop bath - days or until exhausted by processing

  • Undiluted Fixer - years

  • Working solution Fixer - also years, or until exhausted by processing (check exhaustion with Kodaks "Hypo-Chek")

  • Stock solution Hypo Clearing Agent (after being mixed from powder) - many months - (same for Permawash)

  • Working solution Hypo Clearing Agent - a few days or until exhausted by processing the recommended number of prints - (same for Permawash)

Chemical Disposal

See Kodaks website for a comprehensive look at Waste Management

See Kodaks website for a comprehensive look at Silver Management



Home