Wind Turbine Electrical System Experiments

Steven Fahey


Index (in reverse order so the latest stuff is at the top)

Coil Performance Tests
Coil Winding
Alternator Construction
Alternator Design
Alternator Conceptual Design
References
Back to the Overview





Coil Performance Tests, 21 May, 2006

I have begun the slow process of testing the coils I've made inside the alternator. Measuring voltage and current across loads will give me lots of useful info about coil size vs. performance.

The coils are glued into strips of plywood to hold them in the alternator. I will try breaking them out of the epoxy later, but I don't hold much hope for success.
The coil is located between the faces of the rotor. There is a slight gap between the magnet faces and the coil, allowing them to rotate.
The overall set-up using my drill press. The belt stays relatively well on the drill chuck and the dust cap of the hub.
Producing electricity. The drill press is turning the hub at 210 RPM, which I can read off the bicycle speedometer that I've converted. The #22 gauge wire coil (300 turns) is delivering an open-circuit voltage of 3.9V. This performance isn't great; stronger magnets mounted closer with a narrower coil would do better (despite having fewer turns of wire in it).

I will repeat the test using different speeds, sizes of wire, magnet spacings, etcetera. Hopefully I'll be able to make sense of all the data when I get through it all.




Coil Winding, 23 April, 2006

With the wide variety of wire sizes available, I haven't been able to settle on the right gauge to use for my experiments. Lighter wire will allow more turns, capturing more voltage. On the other hand, heavier wire will carry higher currents. Choices, choices.
To figure out what to do, I'm winding some test coils to get some "preliminary results", and will base a final decision upon that. To help with the work, I've built a coil winder out of some spare parts. If I were to go with fine wire, I could be facing 12 coils of 200 turns each. Some people are willing to hand-crank something 2400 times, but I'm not!
The coil winder pulls wire from the original spool, over a pulley, and onto the bobbin. It will slowly wind a round alternator coil, and I hardly have to supervise it at all.
From left to right: Microwave turn-table motor, bobbin with wire winding on, and cam for counter. The counter on top tells me how many turns have been placed on the bobbin.
Electrical wiring is simple. Obviously not something to leave unattended around kids. The switch makes it a (little) bit safer. The motor is rated at 120 volts (not all microwave motors are the same), and it turns at 6 rpm. Not very fast, but since I can do other things while the machine winds, who cares? This is a 4 Watt motor. Seems like a minimum. Using a lower-power motor might cause problems (see warning below).
This pulley was taken out of a plotter, but it could be just about anything. Make sure to choose something that won't scrape the enamel off of the wire. It must be set back far enough from the bobbin that the spooling wire doesn't wander all over the place. If the angle is small enough, it will pack into tight coils. Tension in the wire is also critical!
The cam is a drilled penny-washer with another screw in it. It pulls down on the counter's arm once per turn.
Most microwave motors come with a plug with a triangular or square shape that makes the plate turn. I used this plug to mount the spool.
The spool can be completely disassembled. The core comes from a dowel, though any round hollow object would do. The sides of the spool came from the remains of hole-saw cuttings. The pieces all tighten up on a long 1/4" bolt.

If you take apart a microwave and all you find is a low-voltage motor, you'll need to pull out the little transformer (not the big one) to step-down the volts. The motor currently being used (120V, 6RPM), probably won't have enough torque to wind heavier gauge wire. 18-gauge, and 20-gauge seem to be fine. There are a wide variety of microwave motors out there, so you may find a slower one, which may have more torque. The larger the micro you get it from, probably the better.
Microwave motors are "synchronous motors". That may not sound important, but there's something to bear in mind: microwave motors can turn in EITHER direction. All you have to do is give it a twist as it's turning, and off it goes the other way!
If it gets blocked in one direction, it will just turn the other way. That means that if something gets stuck in your winder, you will suddenly find your bobbin UNWINDING, and wire coiling down on the floor!


Alternator Construction, 14 April, 2006

I've been cutting parts for the alternator in between all the other things to do these days. I'm ready to start winding the coils.


I had the rotor disks done by a laser-cutting company to guarantee spot-on holes.

This is the lay-out of the template for lining up the magnets on the rotor.

The finished template, in place on the rotor, ready for the magnets.

This stator is cut from plywood because it's simple to make and mount - not because the plywood is a good stator material. It will work, but it could prevent effective cooling.


Alternator Design, 28 March, 2006

I've progressed to turning my conceptual design into reality. Keeping it small, my alternator design is a compact 9" in diameter.



The rotor (left) has 16 magnets. Their poles will alternate between north and south. Two identical rotors (with opposite poles) will face each other when assembled.
Between the 2 rotors is the stator (center) with 12 coils inside. These coils will be wound with wire and three groups of four coils each will be connected in series. That will give me 3-phase power to rectify.
The hub (right) has 4 bolts (the rotor was drilled with extra, just in case) and when assembled, the magnet rotors will be squeezed between the hub and the windmill blades. Enough of a gap will be left between the faces of the rotors for the stator to sit.


Conceptual Design, 8 March, 2006

Windmills that produce useful electricity can do so with a variety of ways. I've opted to build a permanent-magnet axial flux alternator. Many other wind-power enthusiasts choose this type because modern hi-power magnets make it efficient and easy to make for the homebuilder. Instead of a cylindrical core inside a shell wound with wire (which also works as an alternator, by the way), a flat disk turns beside a rigid plate. On the rotor disk are magnets, whose poles alternate. Inside the rigid stator plate is an array of wound wire coils. The magnets on the rotor spin past the coils of wire on the stator. As the rotor turns, the field changes rapidly from north pole to south pole. The changing magnetic field induces a current in the coils of wire.
My approach has been to learn the physics before building anything, so I've spent the past month using software and textbooks to figure out how it works. I discovered a fantastic package of software on the internet called "Finite Element Magnetic Modelling", or FEMM. It works, I finally understand it, and the results are detailed.
Here are some samples:



The magnets are placed on a steel rotor disc that is turned by the mill. The stator is fixed and contains all the coils of wire.



The field lines around the magnet are distorted by the rotor disc. Little escapes out the back of the rotor, which is good. More magnetic field is concentrated through the stator to induced electricity in the coils.

Building on this, I've created a computer model of the alternator's performance. I can change variables of the alternator's design and see how they affect its output. Useful results yet? No. I've input data from some other well-documented windmills and the analysis over-estimates the performance by a long-shot.


References:

I'd like to extend a warm thank-you to all the folks who have offered free advice, inspiration, and contributed ideas to my project, namely Flux, SamoaPower, DanB, Jerry, and many more, from the Otherpower Forum.
The Otherpower Forum
Finite Element Magnetic Modelling
*



Updated 23 April, 2006
Created 30 March, 2006, Steven Fahey