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Index

This page tells you how to test the electrical switches and components on the motorcycle.

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Motorcycle Repair Tips

Understanding Brake Fluid Types
Dot 3 and 4 are mineral based and will absorb moisture. Dot 5 is silicone based and will not absorb moisture. Most motorcycles use Dot 5 brake fluid. Never mix different types as this can cause corrosion.

Voltage Drop Test Tips
VOLTAGE DROP TEST
Headlights, brake lights - Max voltage drop is .2 volts
Ignition Modules and Computer Devices - Positive side - .1 volts, Negative side - .06 volts

When testing with voltage dropping always have the devices turned on, proceed with the tests. Do a voltage drop on all switches and connections in each circuit.

Locating Shorts
A short will keep blowing a fuse and this can become expensive in trying to locate. Another option is to build a resetting fuse. Buy a 3 amp resetting circuit breaker or a turn signal flasher at an auto supply store and add two leads with alligator clips. Clip this device across the blown fuse. Now turn on the circuit and the device will keep blowing and resetting. The next step is to follow the wiring and disconnect devices one at a time until you find the problem. You could also disconnect the leads of the battery and connect the leads of the ohm meter to each of the wire pairs in the wiring harness and look for a short; the short would be a "dead" short (0 ohms), and then follow that circuit through to the short.

Voltage Drop Testing An Alternator
Set your digital meter to register voltage. Connect the red lead of a digital meter to the power output of the alternator. Connect the black lead of the digital meter to the positive post of the battery. Start the engine, increase RPM to 4000. The voltage drop should be around .2 volts for a 30 amp alternator, .5 volts for a 60 amp alternator and .7 for a 100 amp alternator. Do a voltage drop test also on the ground path back to the battery.

Voltage Drop Testing The Stator
Unplug the stator hook up wires. Using a multi-meter set on the ohm scale. Take a reading on each of the three wires to ground. If you get a reading, the coil is shorted to ground and is defective. Take readings between each wire (nine possible configurations). There should be a reading on all possible configurations, no reading means the coil is open and therefore is defective. Set the meter to the AC scale, start on highest setting. Start the engine. Testing, all possible configurations should produce AC voltage and revving up the engine should increase the AC accordingly.

Disconnecting The Spark Plug Wire While Testing
When you disconnect the sparkplug wire for test that include turning over the engine with the ignition switch on, don't just leave it dangling in the air, but rather short it out to ground, that way the current will find the path to ground and not into the ignition module or ECM, causing damage to the components.

Removing Spark Plug Wire Tip
Loosen the sparkplug a couple of turns, then use compressed air or a paint brush to clear away any dirt around the sparkplug, that might fall into the combustion chamber through the sparkplug hole.

Weak Spark
Some of the ignition coils have threaded connections which make it possible to get the leads reversed. If you connect the leads reversed, you will get a very weak spark; enough to run the engine, but not very well. The spark should jump from the sparkplug wire to the sparkplug, not from the ground, through the sparkplug to the sparkplug lead. This is called reverse polarity.

Changing Sparkplugs
Sparkplugs need to be changed twice as often on motorcycle engines, as vehicle engines, because most motorcycles produce a spark on every revolution where a vehicle engine produce a spark on every second revolution, therefore twice the wear.

Testing Points/Electronic Switching
Set your multi-meter to the voltage scale. Connect the red lead to the primary connection and the black lead to a ground point on the engine. Turn over the engine and you should see the 12 volt to 0 volt interruption, indicating everything is ok.

The Purpose Of A Condenser
The condenser is placed across the points. Its purpose is to reduce arcing across the points each time it opens and closes. Without a condenser, the points would burn out in short order.

Testing AC Pick-up Coils
To test an AC pick-up coil, set your digital meter to ac on the lowest scale. Clip onto the two leads from the pick-up coil. Turn the engine over and you should read AC voltage between .5 volt AC and 3 volt AC.

Testing Ignition Coils
To test an ignition coil set your Multi-meter to the lowest ohm scale (X1). Place the leads across the primary coils and you should get a reading between 1.5 and 3.5 Ohms. No reading means the coils are open and the coil is defective. Next set your ohm meter to the X2 ohm scale (medium). Place your leads across the secondary coils (sparkplug wire lead and secondary lead on the coil) you should get a reading between 5,000 and 10,000 Ohms. No reading means the coils are open and the coil is defective. Last take a reading with the ohm scale set to its highest (x3). Take a reading from the secondary coil to the case of the coil. There should be no reading; any reading indicates a short to ground and the coil is defective.

How An Ignition Coil Works
Ignition coils have two separate internal windings. The primary winding is made up of about 200 turns of heavier wire. The primary coil has about 20,000 windings of fine wires. When 12 volts DC is placed across the primary windings, a magnetic field surrounds each winding. This primary voltage is controlled by either a mechanical switch (points) or by an electronic switch (transistor). When the switch opens, the magnetic field around the primary windings collapse onto the secondary windings causing an increase in voltage. A voltage of between 40,000 and 60,000 volts is produced across the secondary windings and delivered to the spark plug through the sparkplug lead. The result is a spark jumping the gap of the sparkplug and returns through ground.

Battery Tips
A battery is charged by applying a current to the battery. Because the motorcycle battery is smaller than an automobile battery, you cannot use a regular automobile battery charger. The heavy current can quickly overheat the motorcycle battery and may cause internal damage to the motorcycle battery. Charge a motorcycle battery with a 2.5 amp. Charger. As the charging takes place a hydrogen gas is given off, and as the hydrogen mixes with oxygen in the air it becomes very explosive. Connecting or disconnecting the charger leads can result in a spark which can setoff an explosion. Always connect and disconnect when the power is turned off to the battery charger. The proper way to connect a battery charger; connect the red positive lead directly to the positive post of the battery first, then connect the black, negative lead to a ground (metal) of the engine or frame of the bike.

If you use a vehicle to "jump" a motorcycle battery, never leave the vehicle running while you are doing this. The charging system may too high for your motorcycle battery and components, and damage may result.

Battery Charging Tips
Use a digital meter to test a charging system of the motorcycle. A regular needle type multi-meter will not show the charging rate as clearly. The needle of the multi-meter will only move about the thickness of the needle with the extra charging voltage. With the engine not running, place the leads of a digital meter across the posts of the battery; take note of the reading. Next start the engine and note the voltage on the digital meter. A fully charged battery will read close to 12 volts or 6 on a 6 volt system. With the meter still connect to the battery; start the engine, the voltage reading should increase 1/2 to 1 volt giving a reading of 12.5 to 13 volts. The increased voltage is necessary to push electrons into the battery.

Hazards Of Overcharging
If the charging systems go out of kilter and starts overcharging, you might only get several miles before the battery acid gets "cooked" and boils out leaving you with a dead battery and bike.

Battery Testing Tip
To Test with a hydrometer, on a fully charged battery, the reading should be higher than 1.22, anything lower indicates the battery needs replacing.

Disconnecting Battery Tip
Never disconnect the battery while the engine is running. With no battery in place the charging system could throw out some extra voltage, up to 20 volts and this could cook some of the components in the charging system.

Electrical Tips
Every electrical component must have a power source; this acts like an electrical pump to move the electrons through the circuit.
NOTE: A blown fuse kills the movement of electricity.
Alternator/Generator, relays, fuses, and junction blocks are all in series to the load of the circuit. An open in any of these devices will "kill" the flow of electricity.
At the end of the circuit path, you will find the load device; starter, relays, lights, solenoids, coils, sparkplugs and computer components. All these devices have wire connections and have resistance to electrical flow, which produce a voltage drop across the device. This voltage can be measured, when testing these device circuits.
Check all connectors for tightness, wires that are frayed, and look for corrosion. If you are looking at a relay; clean the contacts with a contact file. You can test the contacts by placing an ohmmeter across the contact leads, with all power off. You should get a reading of 0 ohms, when the contacts are closed. Use any x setting on the ohmmeter.

Ignition Module
The purpose of an ignition module is to replace a make-break point system. It does the same thing, but in an electronic sense. An ignition module requires a ground, 12 volts DC (positive), switching lead to the spark coil and a trigger lead to the trigger sensor. A quick test of the ignition module is as follows. Clip a voltage meter across the spark coil input leads. Turn the key on and turn over the engine, you should see the voltage pulse with every revolution of the engine. If you have trouble with the ignition module, don't overlook a poor ground to the module unit. Do a voltage -drop test from the module to the negative of the battery. It should be near zero volts.

Oxygen Sensor
An oxygen sensor is located on the exhaust system and measures any un-burnt gases. It sends a signal to the onboard computer to adjust the fuel-air mixture for best combustion. It aims for a 14.7:1 ratio.

Throttle Position Sensor
The throttle position sensor is connected to the throttle and lets the ECM know the position of the throttle. The actual working is a variable resistor connected across a 5 volt DC from the ECM. Twisting the throttle changes the reference voltage in the ECM. The more the throttle is twisted, the higher the voltage. To check the action of the variable resistor, with power off, use your Ohm meter connecting the leads to the TPS signal lead (center lead) and Ground. Twist the throttle from fully closed to fully open; the resistance should change smoothly with no skips.

Temperature Sensors
The temperature sensor is a variable resistor which changes resistance in response to heat and cold. The EVM sends out 5 volts DC and passes it through the variable resistance and interprets the return voltage. Cold is low resistance (higher voltage to ECM), hot is high resistance (lower voltage to ECM).

Spark Tip
The higher the compression in the combustion chamber, the more voltage is required for the spark to jump the spark-plug gap. Older bikes require at least 15,000 volts, newer bikes upward of 50,000 volts.

Torqueing Tips
Repair manuals sometimes give a range of torque values such as 16 - 18 Ft-Lbs. Start with the first value, then tighten all the bolts, then go over all the bolts with the higher value.

Torqueing Rear wheel
When torqueing the rear wheel, use a downward motion, rather than a backward motion as this can throw the wheel out of alignment.
.

Adjusting Drive Chain Tension Tip
With the motorcycle supported off the ground, rotate the tire and find the tightest chain spot. This is the spot where you adjust the chain tension to the proper specification.

Testing The Drive Chain For Wear Tip
On the rear sprocket, grab the chain at the 3 O’clock position and attempt to pull it away from the sprocket. The more wear, the further it the chain will come away.

Lubricating Drive Chain Tip
The drive chain should be lubricated and inspected every 1000 KM (600 miles).

Drive Chain Split-Link Tip
Always place the split-link retaining link with the closed end facing the way the chain travels to prevent it from flying off.

Service Tip
If you have just purchased a secondhand motorcycle and you don't know the service records, do a full service and then follow the manufactures guidelines from then on.

Compression Tip
The minimum compression pressure required before any major work is required is 114 PSI.

Fuel Line Tip
When installing a new fuel line and you find the fuel line too tight, place the end of the fuel line in hot water for a minute or two; it will slide easily into place.

Carburetor Fuel Level Tip
If you are using a transparent tubing to check the height of the float, hold it steady and don't move it once the fuel reaches the upper level. If you move it, will show an inaccurate level.

Oil Filter Tip
Do not jam a screw driver through the oil cleaner to remove it, chances are it will only rip the top off the filter. Now you have a difficult job to remove the remaining part of the oil filter, not to mention the mess to clean up.

When changing an oil filter, slip a piece of cardboard under the filter. This will catch dripping oil and re-direct it away from other engine parts.

Understanding Oil Codes
API or American Petroleum Institute has standardized the codes for oil. S is for spark ignition engines. Letters A to L relate to oil performance with L being the highest performer. Synthetic oil, coded as SE, SF, or SG is too slippery for four cycle engines with "wet" clutches (bathed in oil), this will cause clutch slippage.

Oil Pressure Warning Light Tip
If you have an oil pressure warning light and it appears to take longer than usual to go out. This indicates that the oil filter is pretty well plugged up and is due for a change.

Piston Groove Cleaner

A broken piston-ring makes a good piston ring groove cleaner. Just touch it up a bit on the grinder.

Sparkplug Tip
Coat the threads of the sparkplug with copper-based grease and it will install easy and remove the next time.

Tire Puncture
Dispose of used split-pins, rather than leave them lying around on the floor; your tires is just waiting to receive one of these pins,

Tire Pressure Tip
When inflating tires, go slightly pass the intended pressure and then slowly bleed off air as you check with the air gauge. Tire pressure gauges are more accurate when releasing pressure rather than increasing pressure.

Stanchion Protection Tip
Fork gaiters on the stanchions prevent them from rock damage.

Tools Tip
When buying tools, buy the best you can afford. Think quality rather than quantity. Quality tools out perform cheap tools every time and last a lifetime.

Feeler Gauge Care Tip
Keep feeler gauges lightly oiled to prevent rusting

Fuel Tip
If your motorcycle is equipped with a knock sensor, you can use different grades of gasoline without any engine damage or poor performance.

Removing Fuel Line Tip
To remove a hose type fuel line, twist as you pull and it will come off easier

Fuel injector Tip
A quick test to see if a fuel injector is functioning is to use a screwdriver; place the blade on the injector and your ear on the handle. If the injector is working, you will hear a clicking.

Slow Turning Starters Tips
When a starter is slow turning that is an indication that too few electrons are reaching the starter. A poor battery, poor connections or faulty starter is usually the problem. A battery can show a reading of 12 volts on a multi-meter, yet cannot produce enough current to turn the starter over fast enough to start the engine. Check all connections, look for corrosion. Batteries last only five years before they start dropping in output.

Voltage-Drop-Testing Starters
To test with voltage-dropping, set your digital meter to VOLTAGE (not ohms). With the digital meter leads across the battery posts, crank over the starter. Starters are made to operate with a minimum of 11 volts. Note the reading. Next place the leads of the digital meter on the electrical post on the starter and ground of the starter. Crank over the engine again and note the reading. We are looking for any voltage drop. The reading should be very close to 11 volts; any voltage less would indicate a voltage drop between the starter and battery. Less voltage at the starter means less cranking speed. A poor connection in the wire between the starter and battery will always produce heat where the most resistance is.

Repeat the voltage drop test between the ground side of the starter back to the battery. Place the digital meter leads between the ground of the starter (case) and negative post of the battery while cranking over the starter. There should be zero voltage; otherwise there is a poor connection through the metal parts back to the battery.

Ground Return Tips
One side of the battery is connected to the frame of the bike and engine. All load devices must have a return path back to the battery through wires or the frame of the motorcycle. An open connection "kills" all the electrical devices. A poor connection causes intermittent problems.

Overheating Tip
If the engine is clean and still overheats, check the timing for over advancing and correct if necessary. Check the intake manifold for air leaks. Air leaks cause a too lean fuel-air mixture and results in overheating. Check the oil level, a too low oil level reduces the cooling action of the oil. Also check the sparkplug for tightness, a loose sparkplug will allow air to enter the combustion chamber.

Safety Tip
Remember any work you do, may endanger you as well as others. If you are not sure on some repair, look to the professional.

Safety Tip
If you are working on your motorcycle by yourself, have someone to check from time to time to make sure everything is ok.

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