Laminating Stairs Instructions.
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Laminating Stairs
Remove the old step covering, such as linoleum. Clean the surface down to bare wood, sand level where necessary. Remove all dust and dirt, as the glue will stick to the dust, rather than the wood. Vacuum, and wipe clean with a tack cloth.
No underlay is used, the laminate glues directly to the wood, to make a safe surface.
Place the laminate onto the horizontal step risers first, this allows nailing on the rear edge of the horizontal laminate, the nails will be covered by the vertical laminate. A 1-¼ inch air nailer works well, for this purpose. The front stair nose covers up any nails used on the front edge of the horizontal laminate. Nail very close to the edge.
Only a few nails are used to hold the laminate in place, as the glue will secure it. The vertical riser laminate only needs glue to hold it, as there is no traffic pressure on the rear laminate. When the glue is applied to the backside of the laminates, a wiggly line of glue is run from one end of the board, to the other, about two inches wide. A construction adhesive like Lepages PL premium is used to glue the laminate to the wood.
When measuring for laminate, use a twelve inch square to check each step end for trueness, vertically and horizontally.
Snap the laminate pieces together to make a full board. Use masking tape to hold them together, front and back.
Masking tape is also applied to the laminate, where the cut takes place, any correction to the cut is pencil lined onto the masking tape.
The masking tape also prevents chipping of the laminate during cutting.
1/32 inch space is allowed on each end of the laminate step and riser, for expansion to the walls.
Use a new sharp 7-1/2 inch, 60-tooth tungsten blade on the table saw. The blade is set fully up to reduce sawdust from being thrown forward. Masking tape is used on all cuts whether true or not, this prevents chipping, and rough edges to the cuts.
The table saw is a good choice to use when making the cuts, it is easier to make adjustments for untrue cuts. On the table saw, place a square along side the cutting blade of the table saw, and place the laminate to be cut against the table saw miter, the laminate is rotated slightly with the miter, so the pencil line matches the square against the blade, The miter is tightened and the cut is made. By following this procedure, a perfect cut is made each time.
The laminate has an extreme hard surface, and cuts better starting from the edge, than cutting from the top, with a radial saw.
Setting up a cut on table saw
What not to do
Do not just measure one stair and riser length, and cut all the laminate to these lengths,
as each individual step will vary in length and trueness. Spaces at the end of the steps are difficult to fix
as there is very little wood near the wall to nail down a cover strip of wood.
Laminated Stairs Metal Nose, Cutting Jig
Cutting jig
Make up a jig for cutting the stair nose strips.
Use a short piece of a 2x4 stud to make the jig. Mark a line onto the 2x4. Use a square to draw the line.
The cut should be the depth of the metal nose, into the wood. This jig will allow you to make true cuts each time.
Use a hacksaw with fine teeth 32 teeth per inch blade to cut the metal nose.
Use a file to clean up the cut. See above picture.
Edge of Step
The tile is not installed right to the edge of the step, enough room is left for a strip of wood, to allow wood for the screws of the metal nose.
The wood strip is the same height as the finished tile. The metal nose covers over the wood strip and about 1/4 inch over the edge of the tile. See tiling a Stairway Landing"
Removing burrs
Installing Screws and Removing burrs from stair nose screws
When attaching the stair nose to the stair edge, drill a vertical pilot hole for each screw, so the screw will go in perfectly vertical.
There is less change of stripping the top of the screw with the screwdriver, and the screw head will be set level with the metal nose.
A screw that goes in crooked will result in part of the screw head higher than the metal nose. A crooked screw causes ripped socks and provides a potential for someone to trip.
The screws used for metal stair noses, are very fine, and in order to apply enough force to set them, the screw heads may produce sharp burrs.
You can remove the burrs with a fine single cut file. Place a strip of masking tape on both sides of the screw, to protect the stair nose from getting its finish scratched as you file the burrs.
Place a small square piece of plywood on the drill bit (1/4 inch square 1/4 inch plywood), to prevents the spinning metal drill chuck from coming into contact with the metal nose, and cause scratches.
Laminate stairs to landing
Cleaning Laminated Floors
A good product to clean laminated floors with, is "Natura" laminate & hardwood cleaner, it leaves a nice shine and cleans very well. Other cleaners may leave a bit of soap, which creates a dull look.
Estimating Material Needed
Example.
Stair treads are 3 ft. in length and 12 inches wide.
Sq. ft.= length x width.
Treads, 3 ft. x 1 ft.= 3 sq. ft. per step.
Riser is 1/2 ft. wide
Riser 3 Ft. x 1/2 ft. = 1.5 sq. ft.
each step is 3 + 1-1/2 = 4.5 sq. ft.
14 steps would take 14 x 4.5 = 63 sq. ft., add 10% for waste and error = approx. 70 sq. ft.
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