buying a secondhand vehicle tips




Secondhand Vehicle Buying Tips

This article provides tips to buy a secondhand vehicle.
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Make This Your First Inspection

Know what you are looking for, do not be pushed into buying the wrong vehicle. Keep an eye on older vehicles on the road, and in parking lots, this can give a good idea on which vehicles last longer.
When checking out a potential vehicle to buy, the first and sometimes the only inspection needed, is to inspect the inside of the exhaust pipe at the end of the vehicle. Check the color just inside the exhaust pipe, it should be clean, something like a neutral light grey and void of any oil. The cleaner, the pipe looks, the better! Black and sooty reveals a poor burn, resulting in poor gas mileage and poor performance. This may the only thing you need to see, before walking away from the sale. Black dirty looking exhaust pipes usually indicates worn piston rings, damaged valves or worn valve stems, a costly repair item! If the exhaust pipe test checks out, then follow up with these other tests. Check the outer surface of the exhaust pipes and muffler, visually inspect for rust and holes.


 Tires

tire wear can tell you a lot, are they wearing evenly across the tire? Rough driving and rough roads can cause front end damage which may or may not be able to be corrected with an alignment.


 Shocks, you can do a basic test. First do a visual inspection, there should not be any oil on the outside of the shock. Try rocking the car back and forth above each tire, one at a time. The car should quickly stop bouncing. If the car continues to bounce after you let up, the shocks may need replacing.


 Steering Wheel Play, try turning the steering wheel left, then right while watching the front wheel on the drivers side. If there is excessive motion in the steering wheel, before the wheels starts to move, it could be an indication of worn tire rod ends. Worn tie rod ends cause vehicles to wander on the road.


 Check for Wear

Have a good look at the wear of the steering wheel and the rubber on the brake, clutch, and gas pedal. If the speedometer says 80,000 kilometers and the wear to the vehicle, indicates otherwise, the odometer may have been turned back. Also uneven spaced numbers of the odometer, indicate they have been turned back.


Finally yet importantly if possible take the vehicle for a road test, listen for scraps, knocks etc., no sound is best! Try the brakes, hand brake, turning signal, windshield wipers, lights and horn. Take the vehicle down a long hill, let it coast to the bottom of the hill, at the bottom of the hill step on the gas pedal hard, a blue cloud behind you indicates worn rings, cylinders and valve guides. Drive the vehicle for at least 30 minutes, drive on roads that you use most often, check for uncomfortable seats, poor visibility, and over stiff suspension. Now is the time to detect any problem, not after you have paid for it.

By locating any of these problems, you will be able to bring it to the attention of the seller. You might be able to get them to lower the price in order to have the necessary repairs done. On the other hand you may avoid a major headache.


 Interior Checks

1/ check all instrument operations
2/ check air-conditioning operation
3/ check blower operation on all speeds
4/ if vehicle has power antenna, check its operation
5/ check radio, tape player, CD player
6/ check for owner's manual in glove box
7/ check in glove box and on door post for any maintenance records
8/ check seat belts for condition and retract ability
9/ check action of window action; manual or power
10/ check windshield wiper action and windshield washer action
11/ check cigarette lighter action
12/ check any other power outlets
13/ check clock
14/ check map, dome lights
15/ check any alarm systems
16/ check door locks (proper key operation) manual or power
17/ check remote control of locks
18/ check window tint film
19/ check mirror action, manual or power
20/ check window wiper action
21/ check rear window wiper and defrost
22/ if convertible, check operation and condition of top
23/ if sunroof check seal and condition
24/ check operation of seat operation, manual or power
25/ check console condition
26/ check glove box condition and action
27/ check action of emergency brake
28/ check release action for fuel door and hood
29/ check trunk release
30/ check condition of floor mats


 Trunk Inspection

1/ check for proper key operation
2/ check hatch-lid fit and weather seal
3/ check gas-assisted trunk/hatch struts operation
4/ check paint match of trunk to body of car
5/ check condition of trunk floor mat
6/ check condition of spare tire and for inflation
7/ check condition of jack and tire changing tools
8/ check for any rust under floor mat

9/ check condition of trailer wiring, if any
10/ check for any thing, which would indicate collision damage
11/ check action of the trunk courtesy light
12/ check to see if the vehicle has a dash light trunk open indicator


 Under the hood

Visually inspect everything, looking for leaking fluid.
Try squeezing them in your fingers, they should feel rubbery, not hard.
Check the fan belts for cracks and damage.

1/ check level and condition of engine oil
2/ check fluid level of brake master cylinder
3/ check fluid level of clutch master cylinder
4/ check fluid level of power steering reservoir
5/ check transmission fluid level
6/ check radiator fluid level

1/ check drive belts conditions
2/ visually inspect vacuum lines and fittings
3/ visually inspect electrical wiring, corroded, missing insulation etc.
4/ check battery visual condition, battered, cracked etc.
5/ check battery connections for corrosion
6/ check battery containing box for rust and corrosion
7/ check battery hold-down bar for rust and corrosion
8/ check condition of distributor cap and spark plug wires
9/ check condition of air filter
10/ check windshield reservoir condition
11/ check radiator overflow reservoir condition


Everything appears okay, but you are not sure about the motor.
Extensive Testing

 Extensive Tests

If the exhaust pipe is black inside, and you are still interested in the vehicle, then more tests are in order. Remove the spark plugs, one by one and note the condition of each one. The color tells a lot about the health of each cylinder of the engine. The color at the end of the sparkplug, and electrode, for a healthy engine, should be grey. Follow up with a compression test of each cylinder, the compression readings should be correct for this make of engine, and the compression reading should be consistent with each other. It is money, well spent to have a mechanic perform these tests.


 What Spark Plugs Can Tell Us
The condition of a spark plug tells us a lot about the condition of an engine.

Normal Spark Plug
The color of a normal spark plug is brown to a grayish tan.


Worn Spark Plug
A worn spark plug is normal in color, but has rounded electrodes, and a large electrode gap.


Carbon Deposits

A spark plug with dry sooty deposits indicates an engine with the fuel-air mixture too rich, or a weak ignition.
This condition can cause hard starting.


Ash Deposits

A spark plug with a light brown deposit on the electrodes is usually caused from oil leaching into the combustion chamber, or additives in the fuel.
Over build up can cause a mis-fire.

Oil Deposit

An oily spark plug indicates oil is leaking past piston oil rings or work valve guides.
This condition causes hard starting, or no starting.


Bridged Spark Plug Gap
Burnt combustion products lodge between the spark plug gap, shorting out the ignition.
This prevents starting.


Overly Hot Spark Plug

A blistered, white electrode insulation, with no deposit of any kind indicate a too hot condition.
Over advanced ignition timing, too lean fuel-air mixture, or valves not closing properly.
This can lead to melted pistons and burnt valves. Check for correct spark plug heat range.
Preignition is a product of too hot a spark plug, check for over advanced timing, or a too lean fuel-air mixture.


Spark Plug Glazing

Glazed spark plug insulation has a yellowish glazed appearance.
A glazed spark plug indicated an engine running at to high RPM.
The engine overheats and causes mis-firing.

Gas Mileage Increased 15 Ways


Increase vehicle gas mileage fifteen ways.


Gas Mileage Increase of 15 Different Ways

1/ You get the best gas mileage on hard pavement as opposed to gravel and dirt roads. Keeping the air pressure up in the tires also helps increase gas mileage.

2/ Speeds of 55 mph can give you up to 20% better gas mileage than speeds of 65 mph or more.
The faster you go, the greater the wind resistance, and the lower the gas mileage.

3/ When traveling at highway speeds, keep the windows closed to reduce air drag, as drag reduces gas mileage.

4/ In the summer, keep the air pressure up, hard round tires roll best and give you the best gas mileage. The only time you want to lower the air pressure in the tires is during the winter, as lower pressure gives more traction and control on ice and snow.

5/ Maintaining a steady speed of a vehicle uses less gas.

6/ Get your speed up on the level when approaching a hill, building up speed on an incline takes more fuel.

7/ Running your vehicle in low gear at high RPMs, eats up gas, use a higher gear where you can.

8/ If you have manual shift, select the highest gear without overpowering the engine (jerking), as this will give you the best gas mileage.

9/ Keep the fuel tank filled to about half full, as this reduces weight, less weight gives better gas mileage. Don't pack around extra objects if you do not need them

10/ Do not "ride" your foot on the brake, as this generated excess heat on the brake pads, causing extreme wear to the brake shoes, and reduces gas mileage. If you need to use the brakes, pump them, as this will give you better control of the vehicle and reduce wear and save a little on the gas.

11/ When you see a red stoplight ahead, start coasting up to the light, rather than continuing up to it at normal speed, then having to brake heavily to stop. Coast safely, where you can, coasting is a gas saver.

12/ When parking in a parking lot, pull into a spot where you can drive straight out, rather than backing up first, when you leave, less running time, saves fuel.

13/ At least once a year replace or clean the air filter, a dirty air filter is like driving with the choke partly on all the time, a dirty air filter reducing gas mileage.

12/ If the engine runs rough or doesn't start well, get a tune-up, a well maintained engine uses less fuel.
It doesn't hurt to give your vehicle a checkup every year, a mechanic may spot something dangerous that has to be dealt with.

14/ Anything that loads the engine reduces gas mileage, such as running the air conditioner, pulling loaded trailers, or even extra weight in the car or in the back of the truck. Snow and mud piling up under fenders and in the back of trucks add extra weight to the vehicle.

15/ When starting a vehicle in the summer, only warm up the engine about 30 seconds, this is all that is required before driving. In the winter you may need to warm up the engine a little longer, to get the windows free of ice and fog before driving.


Winter Tires

The term snow tire has changed over the years. Today’s technology has created snow tires that are quite different in design and material from tires of the past. Years ago the same summer tires compound was used to make winter tires, only the tread design was changed to a more aggressive tread, for winter conditions.
In the 1980’s Bridgestone introduced a line of tires called Blizzak tires. These winter tires, looked like normal snow tires, but the tread had slits across the tread blocks. The tread block is designed with jagged edges to grip snow, slush, and ice. On icy roads a thin layer of water is produced when pressure is added from the weight of vehicles passing over the packed snow. The water quickly freezes to produce ice.
Normal all year seasonal tires do not cope well on ice. The rubber is very hard and the colder it gets outside, the harder the rubber becomes. True winter tires are composed of a softer type of rubber that stays softer even as the temperature drops. All-season tires start to harden at 7 degree Celsius, while true winter tires remain flexible to -30 temperatures.
In the process of manufacturing winter tires, tiny channels are built into the tread, called “sipes”, this provides a place for water to go. The tire then ends up with a dry tread surface that can grip the ice better.
There is a drawback to driving with soft winter tires, the softer rubber wears rapidly. The solution is to only use winter tires in the winter and change back to summer ties in the spring. Store the winter tires in a dry place out of sunlight.
There are two ways to go when changing back and forth between summer and winter tires. You can have the summer tires removed from the rims each year and the stored winter tires placed on the rims each year. There is a fee, plus balancing costs for removing the tires each year, this action of placing and removing tires tends to damage the tire and aluminum rims somewhat.
The other option is to purchase a set of steel rims, have the winter tires placed of the rims, ready for use each year. There is no need to rebalance the tires each year, and only an exchange of tires with rims is necessary.


Tip

True winter tires have a small snowflake picture embedded into the side of the tire rubber.


 Canada

Liters to Imperial Gallons Chart

5L= 1.1 imp. gal.-----16L= 3.52 imp. gal. ---- 27L= 5.94 imp. gal. ---- 37L= 8.14 imp. gal. ---- 47L= 10.34 imp. gal. ----57L= 12.54 imp.
6L= 1.33 imp. gal.----17L= 3.74 imp. gal. ---- 28L= 6.16 imp. gal. ---- 38L= 8.36 imp. gal. -----48L= 10.56 imp. gal.----58L= 12.76 imp. gal.
7L= 1.54 imp. gal.----18L= 3.96 imp. gal. ---- 29L= 6.38 imp. gal. ---- 39L= 8.58 imp. gal. ---- 49= 10.78 imp. gal.---- 59L= 12.98 imp. gal.
8L= 1.76 imp.gal.-----19L= 4.18 imp. gal.---- 30L= 6.6 imp. gal. ----- 40L= 8.8 imp. gal. ---- 50L= 11 imp. gal.------ 60L= 13.2 imp. gal.
9L= 1.98 imp. gal.----20L= 4.4 imp. gal. ---- 31L= 6.82 imp. gal. ---- 41L= 9.02 imp. gal. ---- 51L= 11.22 imp. gal.--- 61L= 13.42 imp. gal.
10L= 2.2 imp. gal.----21L= 4.62 imp. gal. ---- 32L= 7.04 imp. gal. ---- 42L= 9.24 imp. gal. ---- 52L= 11.44imp. gal. ---- 62L= 13.64 imp. gal.
11L= 2.42 imp. gal.---22L= 4.84 imp. gal. ---- 33L= 7.26 imp. gal. ---- 43L= 9.46 imp. gal. -----53L= 11.66 imp. gal.----63L= 13.86 imp. gal.
13L= 2.86 imp. gal.---24L= 5.28 imp. gal. ---- 34= 7.48 imp. gal. ---- 44L= 9.68 imp. gal. ---- 54L= 11.88 imp. gal. --- 64L= 14.08 imp. gal.
14L= 3.08 imp. gal.---25L= 5.5 imp. gal. ----- 35L= 7.7 imp. gal. ----- 45L= 9.9 imp. gal. ----- 55L= 12.1 imp. gal. ---- 65L= 14.3 imp. gal.
15L= 3.3 imp. gal.----26L= 5.72 imp. gal. ---- 36L= 7.92 imp. gal. ---- 46L= 10.12 imp.gal. --- 56L= 12.32 imp. gal.---- 66L= 14.52 imp. gal.
Liters per 100 km to MPG. (Imperial) Chart

5 L per 100 km = 56.49 mpg.
6 L per 100 km = 46.72 mpg.
7 L per 100 km = 40.35 mpg.
8 L per 100 km = 35.30 mpg.
9 L per 100 km = 31.38 mpg.
10 L per 100 km = 28.24 mpg.
11 L per 100 km = 25.68 mpg.
12 L per 100 km =23.54 mpg.
13 L per 100 km = 21.73 mpg.
14 L per 100 km = 20.17 mpg.
15 L per 100 km = 18.83 mpg.


100 km = 62.137 miles.


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Secondhand vehicle buying tips, to simply get the best value for your money.