 
These
photographs were taken between 1991 and 1994 in Japan's southern island
of Kyushu. They present many of the cultural artifacts found in this
island's rural seaside communities and, in part, examine some of the rich
traditions of form and ritual found in quotidian places. The following
was written during this time in Kyushu.
*
A
one-car diesel switches off the main yard, and after three bridges clicks
through thickly greened chines of curves into tunnels and stops at country
stations. A shallow grade climbs to a summit bringing into view from
great heights the rapt river, the distance to the sea and the tops of trees.
Between the broken endings of tall thickets and the fork of the river lies
the perdition of cloud on water, as shadow and revolving brilliance against
the curve of rails.
*
Living
within a perimeter of blue. People taking things from the sea, building
houses with them, putting them in bathwater, sprinkling them over funerary
pyres. People diving into the ocean. How living on a small
island of mountainous terrain tends to push everyone's house into the sea,
especially frequently from earthquakes, tidal waves and landslides.
A ready acknowledgment of seismic phenomena is the laying of foundations
into a million years of accrued ash on Shikoku. And residence here
admits the geological history, is taken up into a religious frame, into
the will by people's living on. This is the kind of thinking of peoples
of islands, when the landings of swarthy crews, oars chocking in their
locks, break upon their beaches.
The
ocean, if known from shrine circumnambulatories (those weather-lumbered
decks which circle tiny miracles in gold and gold enameling) affording
majestic views, is cause for puzzling. From such belvederes above
a vast blueness, so many abstractions have come into the thinking of
a long history of circumnambulators, cross-armed and brooding.
The ocean and the pressing to realizations of new applications for its
contents. Frequent results are sociomorphisms. The grinding
together of snail meats that better flavour be smoothed into a pickling,
or that a delicate lace of sea moss comes to signify some auspicious
and usually seasonally related event. Most often, however, of
the things that are taken from the ocean, the people of this island,
they hold them between fine slivers of a tropical giant grass, they
take them into their mouths and they eat them.
Some
few, instead, being well fed when snorkeling in the eighth century (when
it seems so many especially metamorphosing cultural happenings knew a clever
renaissance), bring home coral, carve it up and make small ornaments in
coraline colours. Perhaps no transgression of seaside logic after
having eaten your fill of everything else. Brought back from this
smallish island, an object from twelfth century shores. Such clear
notes from this flute of nacre.
*
An
island at the edge of the Pacific is caught out of sleep. The moon
is here at the beginning of sky. I confirm its shape held above the
pagoda, against indigo from China. Along the slope of breaking concrete,
cornering against the close fitting stones in the redan, it carries me
in its light. There is special mention in its tide and in the treasure
tops of the trees: pasania, paulownia, cypress and the willows. They
have coloured and hold themselves bright against the open reaches, and
tell me of distances from these narrow steps of revetments and tumbledown
garden wisdom. The openings to long views show patterns in the atmosphere.
I
must speak on the slow swelling of a hibernal cold which hesitantly collects
this place, for the winter here comes unsure of itself. It retreats
to bring autumn air, and green which breaks out in new florescence.
It returns again in strides rushing the land and confusing the thinking
of plants. You must know of the fires which ride in the evening airs,
and of the still waters which do not torrent but move darkly in their snake
selves. There come, too, in the fabric of such skies much indecision
and argument. With the auspice of winter, and seas beaching in the
wakes of storms, the churning of all the oceans ends here in a nacreous
cloud of sand. Smoothed shells giving up the mensing of the moon.
True furies begin this season. Wind will arrive with the longest
distances lost, all of the moving air sure in its sliding over stinging
north waves. Then, the earth in its chilling dip away from the sun
invites the poles to swing, and I will walk under the aurora and know its
brave carillon.
In
these friezes of mixing weathers, when the sky is around the island and
around me are the whipping limbs of the strongest trees, the aurora will
descend, and its light will be merciful. I hold visions caught in
these weathers, made measurable in the magnetism of these earthbound
heights.
*
The
temple in Ozai, and a derelict weight of beams, once rotating on a spindle
of air. Two hundred and sixteen drawers, each knowing elements or
emanations of divinities in rolled writings. Centuries of papers
still spinning, escaping on winds of a pantheon. Beside a foundered
kago, a palanquin, to offer spring virgins to cloisters. Tall oke
staves and withes, and coiled hemp heavy in corners. Dim columns
of cypress, revolving the magics and the rites of ceremonial prayings and
circadian attentions to the hallowed, empty: the mystery of this whirling
catafalque, now fractured, unable in its course. A great octagon,
sided in special-nine tiers of three, for parchments; made more in their
loss of contents for the hidden impress of their power. But all of
it is darkness, and I can't really see. The building which contains
this history is like a shrine; the entrance is by the front only, and there
is one small pendant window. Light penetrates diffusely through a
kind of mashrabiya, a large section on the upper half of the sliding doors,
horizontal and vertical crossings of splined cedar. So the objects,
too, which gather around this whorl of wood fall into its uncertainty,
take upon a little of that same light, marginally divest in the dim tones
of its passing. Here they preserve their last acts in a resting place.
*
I
am seeing rare birds on frozen limbs. A sky that threatens made the
colour of an autumn crocus (it is bright at the edge of the lens).
A saffron stamen caught in the heights of trees, that I know this a hemisphere
toward winter, that the sun quickens its course, and I am in the land of
the Brahmin's children. Azaleas of izayoi, their anthers glowing,
gather the close intensities of retinal thresholds, extend further, out
of their fluorescences into the air. Twilight passing into the sixteenth
night of the moon: loss of light to the atavism of night vision, the competition
thus visual flutter of this transformation. Vision in shifting hues
of non-vision, the not-colour in meshing colour with night. Coleridge's
not-flower of the Passage Though Paradise. Tasogaré and the
rushing wind-of-change, when light is lost to give shade. The block
of azaleas in an expanse of iridescence are their ephemeral quintessence,
their transitory evanescent most.
The
moon's sixteenth night of its folding. Indigo-in-the-eyes.
Meshing retina colour with cat-night eyes. Primary green leaves against
primary flower petals produce a distinct uncertainty, a vibratory field
when the eye cannot image at once the very colours it wishes to see, "being
so caught up." Then flooded with a moon's continuance of this contrariness
that elongates the phenomenon at the oncoming crash into blackness.
The black and the white. The absence of colour, a loss of hues into
mere dimension, into an evening of notes on wings. Here is the not-flower,
existing once a year, as a tantamount phase of the moon and a petal's exchange
in air when the eye must deny it, both in its colour and in the quavering
breath of its fading. Rising in its scent, its sighs and suspirations,
while tenuously night is and eyes are. I remove this depth and focus,
and fathom the calls in the darkness over the crowns of the trees, all
rounded in this almost moon.
*
Nexus
and salutatory. At the temple gate fall the chinking drones of the
bhosan's hand of bells. At the stones of ancient boundary run the
priest's polemic and chant together in its meter and strength. In
their claiming rusting, the rubor rods of iron know this man tasked in
his motions, graced in his focus, made more than himself for this sudden
rite. His three layered robes shut out a January cloud of sky and
cold. Wind quiets to hold his continue of blessing, and he is alone.
A
dark string under his chin, an empowered voice its resilience of concentration,
a hat of straw shadows his quick motions of ritual, hands rhyming these
bells of tones. At the temple gate, instead, a man stands; his hands
are so heavy with the history of their shaking, hands incorruptibly present
in the tiny tintinnabulation, gather deities to ensure their little sounds
when his hands move in other histories.
The
invocation disperses and purifies. He recognizes the four corners
in windless station, and the air curls in its cold. Enters through
arches sliding screens, sets the low fires, seats himself by the mokugyo
and begins with his mallet. Flames consume the names he has prepared,
now sanctified, now exchanging the four elements mixing with the fifth,
the soul, capstans of the prayer he beats. The rush of kindling sounds
take up the spirits, mix the transcending bodies, strike together the heat
colour, the essences of those returning, in the tips of the flames, in
smoke. Here, the intercedent shares the heats, fast-rising, invites,
gongs a long decaying pitch of ringings, weighs the hundreds of folding
pages, adjusts the chant, exalts that sublime thing of manifest certainty.
His
hands are so heavy with their resonating faith, his power so imbued, his
seeing raised in the sting of horizons. Up with the heat, ringing
spirits, his hands let fall the beads of prayer, he stills the dissipating
gong.
*
Into
the centuries of Siva's legacy, his entire frame of emanations written
in the sand at Mohenjodaro and Varanasi. Stratified. Bearing
ages of castes and dynasties and powers of religion. All the detritus
of ages, the fallow of thinkings made alive again in new frames.
All the quiet majesty gained over time, occurring in the new. Given
up from those sands, ripened, the essence of India's stone crypts.
Seed in the jewels of the Japan Islands. Moving in its own rhythm
and silence, an importation of the spirit.
The
Ashurazo of six arms and peripheral views, god-devil of extreme protection;
she owns her wealth carefully, carries her tithes, enters the guns-of-life,
mothers a cunning, curls the little ends of time in the unrapidness of
a fascination-implosion, is tied to long lights of shining metals layered
in the cowls of sentience given to those who may share it, holds the marks
in sheaths of gold, wears tacit empowerings that measure rites in smoke,
sees farther than her own visions, may be wrapped in the silks of night
yet still emit so many pearls. |