for printable version]
Root Cuttings Setup” Gallery Explanatory Text
Following is detailed explanatory text for each photo (#1-30) for my “Own
Root Cuttings Setup” Gallery. You can [enter]
the gallery also - it will open in a new window and you can then refer back
to this window for the image descriptions.
- See photo for explanatory text.
- See photo for explanatory text.
- New mini varieties under grow lights end of Feb. -- Long stems on
left, middle with
colour showing, and far right are ready for starting own root cuttings.
NOTE : You don’t have to wait for blooms to fully open or show colour.
(See note in image # 2 )
- These 2.25 inch square pots filled with “Sunshine Mix # 4” and
watered, ready to stick cuttings into.
Note: Use thoroughly cleaned or new pots, disinfect
pruners & other tools.
a professional mix, which contains, Peat Moss, Perlite, PH Adjuster and a Wetting
Agent. Also the “BEST” for
starting seeds, for growing seedlings etc. Also note: Don't
mix in tightly - put in loose and water thoroughly.
- Before sticking prepared cuttings into pots, dip into Hormone Rooting
Powder to a depth of approximately 3/4 inch. Tap lightly to remove
excess powder & stick cutting
about 1 inch deep. Use powder for softwood or semi-hardwood. My powder contains
fungicide to prevent
rotting. The “BEST” you can buy is Rhizopon AA#3 powder (0.8% IBA
in talc). Cuttings are now ready to go in dish pan and under lights. Basement
66 F or 19 C.
- Boards in bottom of dish-pan have 3/4 “ space underneath filled
with 1/2 “ water.
- Ready to put clear plastic cover on. Note misting (plain water!!!)
on leaves !!
- Plastic cover on, temperature probe in pot without a cutting. NOTE
: Temperature is only 66 F (19 C) but will
be raised to 70 to 74 MAX with bottom heat in 8-10 hrs.
- After one hour under lights with bottom heat, water evaporation starts.
- After 12 hours, temperature inside tent now 22 C or 72 F. Notice
the heavy condensation now.
- After 11 days. Some top eyes are starting to grow already. Opened
clear plastic cover only once
after about a week. Notice, how clean the foliage looks without any air
circulation at all. Misted with plain water before plastic went back over.
- After 18 days. Never opened cover since day 11 !!! Some new
shoots are already several inches long. Misted
with water before cover went back on.
- After 25 days, they are ready for bigger pots ! Some shoots are hitting
the top cover.
- After 25 days. From different angle. Notice the rhododendron names
on tags! I am using discontinued Rhododendron
tags and writing my notes, dates, varieties etc. on back. Also note that marking
pens will fade out in a few months, lead pencil will last for years!!!!
- To show the roots after 25 days. The longer roots will be cut off
before planting into one litre pots. If lots of roots, I cut 1/4” off
across the bottom with a knife.
- See #15 above.
- After transplanting, a cut off 2 litre clear pop bottle goes over
for 5 - 7 days. Note: Bottle cap
can be removed after 3 days.
- Showing the 7.5 watt, old Christmas lights I use for bottom heat.
- Only 18 days. A fast rooting variety, roots are coming through the
drain holes already. At one time a “SUPER FAST” rooter
came through drain holes
in only 12 days.
- Same as #19. This one transplanting after 18 days. Long roots get
- I threw out all regular pots as these are too low. See the height
of the Yoghurt pots.
- After 12 days only. Another fast rooter. Roots are almost down to
bottom and cutting is ready to transplant
into a one litre pot in 5-6 days.
- My set up for bottom heat. If basement temperature is 68 to 70 F,
only one bulb is turned on to start new
cuttings. If the room temp. is 65-66 F, 2 bulbs are on. A dish-pan will fit over
each cutout. I can lower the temp. 1 or 2 degrees by moving the dish-pan
sideways one inch to let some heat
escape through the top. Always keep temperature between 70 and 74 F.
- Box is 7“ high to fit 12 one-litre pots. Each of the 4 bulbs
has an aluminum cover over the top to prevent
any water from dripping onto the bulbs.
- Transplanted cuttings ready to go under grow lights.
- After one night, the temperature went up to 82 F. That was a bit
high, so I turned off one bulb. Now temperature stays
around 78 to 80 F. Once cuttings are rooted, higher temperature does not do
any harm and makes them grow faster.
- Side view. Front board open 3/4 “ on bottom for air and to
check on bulbs. With room temperature of 65-66
F, 4 lights are on. I monitor temperature at all stages.
- See photo for explanatory text. Use the magnifier button to zoom
and make the text easier to read!
- Two sets of double bottom heat boxes. The lower one with one regular
light bulb socket in each is the first
one I build. After experimenting with different wattages, I found that a 7.5
light bulb (which is more expensive than brighter bulbs) was sufficient
most of the time. I monitor temperatures at all times !!!
Eventually, I got the
using faded-out outside Christmas lights
(that had 7.5 watt bulbs) of which I had lots - obviously much cheaper!! As you
see in the upper box, I
started with three lights. Three lights were too high for starting cuttings,
but were OK after the
cuttings had rooted and were transplanted. I now have a set up for 4 dish-pans
by side, 4 boxes in one with only 2 Christmas lights each - this just fits under
a 4 foot
double fluorescent light fixture.
- Information right in photo. Look at Image #28 and see the size difference
only 6 days later!!