Windarra Repairs and Maintenance Page
Centerboard Issues
It seems that sometime around the middle of the '97 model year, the pivot pin on the centerboard was not reinforced due the misalignment of the reinforcing insert at the factory. While Windarra didn't have this problem, I have seen and fixed others.
THE FIX
Mix up a bunch of resin with chopped up glass fiber and stuff this goo into the area around the elongated hole, ensuring you stuff at least a couple of inches of the stuff all the way around the original pivot hole (use rubber gloves). Let it set, then drill a new 5/8" pivot hole in the original location. On the port side of the board, construct a shim that matches the contour of the top of the CB out of UHMW, and attach it with countersunk 1/2" stainless screws (glue WON'T stick to this stuff). There seems to be some variance in the width at the top of the trunk, so measure the width carefully to determine the thickness of UHMW shim to use (I used 3/16" but some have used up to 1/4" and others have binding using 1/8"). If you have the old wire cable, remove it (attach end to a string to help feed the new line backup!), and enlarge the hole on the deck enough to insert an 18' long length of low stretch ("yacht braid") 5/16" rope. Thread the rope through from the "indent" side of the board, and back through an additional hole drilled 2" further towards the edge of the CB. This will reduce the twisting moment on the board when raising, and allow your stopper knot to sit inside the indent, preventing binding and improving the boards hydrodynamics. Inspect your hanger bracket, and ensure that the caulking at the top was squeezed out when tightened at the factory. On some boats, the notches at the base of the trunk that retain the ends of the pivot pin do not extend far enough up the trunk, causing the pivot pin to bind and prevent the top of the hanger from seating properly. If this is the case, remove enough of the material from these notches (with a sanding drum on a rotary tool) to allow the top of the bracket to seat properly. Take a stick and tape your rotary tool to the end (with sanding drum on), and insert it up the trunk to where the control line enters from the mast post. Grind down the edge so the rope can move freely without chafing (do this!). Feed the new line up using the string you attached to the old wire cable.INSTALLATION
Insert a piece of 1/2" ID copper pipe (plumbing pipe) into the CB pivot hole to act as a bushing (the 7/16" pivot pin will fit nicely into it), and coat the pin with anti-seize compound. Cap the ends of the pivot pin with 1/2" plastic chair leg ends. After installing the 1/2" caps onto the pivot pin, make sure the indents in the trunk have enough clearance to allow the sealant at the top of the hanger to compress when the hanger bolt is tightened. I had to remove some material from there to stop the capped pin from binding, and preventing the top of the hanger from seating into the top of the CB trunk. To install the hanger, tie a thin string (fishing line works well) to the top of the hanger bolt to help align it with the hole in the top of the trunk (two person job). Caulk the top of the hanger and the top of the trunk inside where the bolt enters.
Now you will have a board that will be stronger, perform better, will be adjustable while underway, and have a lot less banging at anchor. Go to my Exterior Modifications page for more on this.
Trailer and Tires
With the stock Mac brakes, expect problems. I returned from several extended trips to find the brakes seized to the drum. The pads, when left to dry without being flushed, "weld" themselves to the drums, and then delaminate from the shoe when broken loose. You should plan on retro-fitting galvanized backing plates along with Riveted pads and stainless hardware.
One way to reduce the rusting on the wheels is to apply silicone caulking to the inner and outer seams of the center dish. This is simply welded into the wheel rim, leaving a small gap that will allow water intrusion, and rust. Sealing this gap stops this.
Steering
The older Morse rotary helm units can be a weak point. They are only rated for 300 lbs. and can be easily overstressed. Make sure the steering linkage moves freely to minimize the stress on the unit. Detach the steering cable and check the rudder steering assembly moves freely. One area often overlooked is the attachment point between the motor and the arm that connects it to the tie rod. This connection must have a bit of play, as it needs to be able to pivot when the rudders are turned. If this bolt is too tight, the steering box takes an unneccessary load. The expandable picture shows the units part numbers and toll-free number for Morse. Mounting an engine support bracket will also take a lot of load off the steering, and make the helm lighter, balanced, and more responsive. Go to my Exterior Modifications page for more on this.
Leaks
After about a year of searching for the source of the water accumulating in the bilge, I discovered the slot in the deck where the forestay tang entered was not caulked very well. Remove the black plastic cover and the foam from the v-berth flotation compartment to access the area you need to caulk (on the underside of the deck). I attached a spatula to a stick to apply polyurethane caulking. Expand the picture to get a more detailed view of the area needing attention. (be sure to buy your first mate a new spatula when done...)
Gel Coat
If (when) you find these, break away any remaining unsupported gel-coat and fill the void with body filler (i.e. Bondo). Top this with some fresh gel-coat and cover the repair with a smooth plastic bag to keep the air off it (and to leave a nice smooth finish).
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