One
of the benefits to using a liquid cooled engine, is convenient, efficient,
clean cabin heat. Plumbing in a heater hose is simple and far easier than
ducting in a heat muff. I found a
good aluminum heater core at the auto wreckers from a new wrecked Accent.
Building a plenum to hold the core was simple enough and allowed me to
have some control of where the heat was ducted. Ram air from both NACA
ducts is brought in to the heater box via 2" scat tube, to the cold
side. A 3/4" scat tube is fed from the cold side to the electrical
compartment. the hot side of the heater box feeds 2 scat tubes to eyeball
vents on the panel, and has a cable operated damper for floor heat.
Defrost fans on the underside of the glare shield are 12 volt computer
cooling fans (cheap & light). They draw air from under the panel. I
chose to have fans for this in order to clear the canopy while on the
ground, as ram air from the heater won't be reliable during taxi.
Temperature is control by a cable operated valve. Cable's are from a
manual choke conversion kit available from auto parts store for approx. $7
cdn. The kit comes with a bunch of other parts that are useless, but the
cable is perfect (cheap, light & sturdy) for operating the temperature
valve & the floor heat damper. I
expect this to provide me with more than enough clean "CO free"
heat to make the cabin plenty toasty even during winter flying in the
Canadian north. February 04, 2003 Back
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