The Mount Temple is one of the more famous and picturesque mountain
in Canadian Rockies. It was also my first over 11,000ft mountain.
Its North face has been compared with Eiger's and is for those with desire
to test their self abuse limits. We have climbed the standard route
(South West slopes). We did it early in the season (first week of
July) and snow conditions weren't very good. We had to be off the mountain
by 10:00 AM to be safe. This forced us to get up 2:00 AM and hike
in with the head lamps. No camping is allowed in the Park (even though
we saw quite of a few bivouac campsite along the way). We summited
around 8:30 AM and were down below first gully system (just above Sentinel
Pass) around 10:30AM. The excitement on the way up was created
by climbing a gully on 2 inches of slushy snow on top of a rotten ice.
On the way down thrill was increased by balling snow on our crampons and
necessary boot cleaning after almoust every step. It's a beautiful mountain
and I highly recommend it to everybody (with proper mountaineering
experience). All we needed was ice ax and crampons.
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