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As part of the conversion to a Daytona Coupe "styled" car involved changing the front clip. The extra space gained under the new nose provided an ideal location to install a homemade cold air induction system. The factory '86 turbo inlet hose was attached to a 4" diameter aluminum pipe that's routed along the passenger side of the engine bay and under the new front. To this I have attached a K&N cone to provide plenty of cold fresh air rather than air pre-heated by the radiator. In this early photo, the lower portion of the "Daytona" nose had yet to be built. Also note the steel fender, a lot has changed since. |
5-Speed Transmission:
The factory '78 Borg Warner 4-speed had been very reliable but on one of my junkyard searches, I came across a '84 Turbo Coupe with a Borg-Warner T-5 5-speed. For $25, I just couldn't resist! This was a very straightforward swap into the Mustang II. I used the original 4-speed bellhousing, clutch and pressure plate, The bellhousing bolted directly to the T-5 and allowed me to use the original clutch fork and cable. The rear crossmember required a little adjustment forward (1/2") but did not require drilling any new holes. The biggest change was the shifter location which is about 1/2"-2" forward of stock. A photo of the new shifter is on the Body Mods "Interior" page.
Export Brace & "Monte Carlo" Bar:
One modification Shelby's Mustangs are noted for was the addition of a "export brace" that attaches the shock towers to the firewall. He also added what was called a "Monte Carlo" bar that linked the shock towers across the engine bay. As the Mustang II is not the most rigid car (it twists like a wet noodle!), I decided I would add these touches as well. Ford did make a version of the export brace to install on the T-top equipped cars, however the passenger side would not clear my intercooler and theirs is made of mild steel tubing. For me aluminum was the only choice and I purchased a length of solid 5/8" round stock.
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Using my shop vice, a 4' snipe and plenty of "ummph" I bent up a new Monte Carlo bar that curves nicely over the valve cover. I used the same technique to form the passenger side of the export brace to clear the intercooler (removed in this photo). To attach these to the car, heavy 3/8" L brackets were made. These in turn are bolted through the firewall and inner fenders to 3/8" backing plates. They've definitely helped stiffen up the car. Next step will be to build some sub-frame connectors. |
Here's the most recent picture I have of the whole "system" assembled:
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On the right you can see the vacuum/boost manifold. The braided stainless lines will be plumbed to the boost gauge as well as to the water/alcohol injection system I have planned (the next chapter!) |
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