How To Belay

"The leader must not fall." (ancient mountaineering wisdom)

Learning to belay is one of the most fundamental links to successful climbing, but true belaying goes beyond what you learn in a gym. An experienced belayer knows that his or her actions can give a leader the strength and certainty to achieve new heights, prevent ground-falls, or give the leader an extra challenge when they need one.

Rule 1: BE EFFICIENT

A good belayer will always be on the lookout for ways to save time. On longer routes in particular, it can make the difference between having hotdogs and beer around a campfire or freezing to death over night on a cliff top. Two great tips for saving time:
   

Look Ahead

You won't be surprised to know that our man Reynolds is an engineer--
efficient as ever, he scans the guidebook for the next route while Rebecca gets on with the crux. A classic time saving technique!

 

Burgers & Fries
Squamish
  Z Z Z ...

Never one to waste a moment; Dave bags some well needed shut-
eye.

Rule 2: BE SAFE

As the saying goes: "a bad anchor is a dead climber". Nobody can climb with confidence if they can't be sure if the belay will hold. Scrutinize all anchors with suspicion, and always back up your anchor if you think it needs it.
   

An acceptable anchor. These 1.5 inch bolts are fast becoming de rigeur at sport crags around the world. Check with your local climbing store for retrobolting programs and over-sized carabiners.

 

Libra Crack
Index Town Walls
   

Marginal anchors can be discomforting, if not downright mortifying. Although equalized, this tree anchor would likely pull out in a light breeze.

Banana Peel
Squamish

Multi-pitch Tips

Multi-pitch climbing lends itself to particular problems with belaying and anchors. Being prepared with a little know-how is invaluable:
   

TIP 1: HIT THE HEAD

If you thought paying attention while belaying was difficult, try doing it when nature is calling, and HARD. Your partner may as well be soloing, because you will have to focus all your energies towards not crapping your pants. I strongly recommend forcing nature's hand before getting on a long route, especially if it has the provocative "hanging belay". Tim Horton's coffee works wonders for this.

The author holds on for dear life, The Sword
Squamish

"poo your pants or soil the stance"
   

If you cannot possibly hold on, you have two options; but neither are pretty. I doubt that the former needs a diagram, but the latter has some technique; rather than using the ledge you are standing on, give yourself 6 feet of slack, tie off, and do your work below the belay. To make things easier, many climbing shops sell pants with crotch zippers that go all the way around.

Dave considers his options on Banana Peel
Squamish
   

TIP 2: AVOID THE BELAY SCRUM

In crowded areas like Yosemite, it is almost inevitable that you will find yourself sharing a ledge with other parties (I've maxed out at 13 people on Nutcracker ). It is uncomfortable, potentially unsafe, and a great way to get sun-
burnt as you wait for other parties to get their shit together. To avoid this belaying nightmare try the following tips:

A) Save your crap until the first ledge
   

B) Hog the anchor (use every crack, horn, and flake; clip bolts until the hangers are full).

C) Avoid "moderate classics" like the plague.

 

the worst--a hanging belay scrum
Sheriffs Badge, Squamish

Advanced Technique

The most advanced climbing requires equally advanced belaying techniques. This not recommended for novices, or anybody, really.
   

Downhill Racer

There is a fearsome gritstone route in Yorkshire called Downhill Racer because, if the leader was to fall, the belayer is required to run downhill to take in enough slack to avoid a ground fall. In a similar vein, many routes that start off a ledge have a tactical advantage in that the belayer can take in slack at 10 m/s by simply stepping off the ledge.

Cardiac Arete
Grand Sentinel, Banff

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