Episode V: The Road To Pipeline

Episode V

The Road To Pipeline

In 1979, "G" Cameron rocked the Squamish climbing community by completing the first free ascent of Pipeline, an overhanging, offwidth, squeeze chimney. Cameron didn't have any fancy Camelots, Big Bros, or any of the yet-to-be-designed large hardware. He probably also had a tough time convincing climbing partners that it was a great idea. Given these limiting options, he soloed the route.

Pipeline is found on the Squaw, north of the Stawamus Chief in Squamish. It is an unmistakable curving dihedral, and remains the object of my desire. Although it undulates in width throughout its length, it is a true squeeze chimney, weighing in at 7-9 inches. In Kevin McLane's outstanding guidebook of the area, it has mega-classic status. Ah--but here's the rub! At 5.10c, it remains the least climbed classic route in all of North America. There may be several reasons for this:

1) It is fucking hard and scary.

2) Nobody can afford the necessary rack.

3) It is the last pitch of a four pitch route and, at 50 metres in length, is not given to top-roping.

When I became interested in Pipeline, I became obsessed with finding somebody who had done it so that they could lie to me about how "it really wasn't that bad." I would, and still do, ask every climber I meet. Strangely, of all the climbers (most of whom climb much harder than 5.10c), and all the people that they know, nobody has done Pipeline.

The crux of Pipeline

I decided to do some reconnaissance by rappelling down a neighbouring route. I had intended to measure the true width of the crack; unfortunately I dropped my tape measure from the last pitch of another route. I swung over the dramatic edge of the first rappel and, to my utter disbelief, I found somebody on the crux of the route! At the stage that I found him, our brave soul had resorted to aid, and I watched with horror as he weighted a completely tipped out Camelot #5 whilst placing a #3 Big Bro. This lasted until his Camelot no longer fit. Then he swapped his two Big Bros. I decided that his heavy titanium balls were almost certainly offset by his Styrofoam cerebrum, but he made it up, making him more of a man than you, or me, or any of our friends.

Are your palms sweating yet?

Climbing has always been about getting to places where others are not. Pipeline has become the ultimate expression of this desire. In many ways I am fueled by a desire to refute--disprove even--the overwhelming belief that Pipeline is "another man's route". I have spent so long trying to find a person who has done the route specifically because I yearn for some encouragement; I need to believe that I can do it. It is 5 parts horrifying, 5 parts inspiring that I could become that person for others. If I can get my ass up, perhaps I can convince my friends that they could do the same.

Here's to hoping. I'll keep you posted.

The Squaw. Pipeline lies in the shadows of the sickle shaped ramp.

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I decided to do some reconnaissance by rappelling down a neighbouring route. I had intended to measure the true width of the crack; unfortunately I dropped my tape measure from the last pitch of another route. I swung over the dramatic edge of the first rappel and, to my utter disbelief, I found somebody on the crux of the route! At the stage that I found him, our brave soul had resorted to aid, and I watched with horror as he weighted a completely tipped out Camelot #5 whilst placing a #3 Big Bro. This lasted until his Camelot no longer fit. Then he swapped his two Big Bros. I decided that his heavy titanium balls were almost certainly offset by his Styrofoam cerebrum, but he made it up, making him more of a man than you, or me, or any of our friends.
		Are your palms sweating yet?