Red Rocks 2000
 
   
 

It was a dry spell, rain, and whining that eventually gave life to our trip to Sin City, USA. Living in Ontario, climbing was nary to be had, and when it was had, it came in small and silly packages. The Gatineau Hills, north of Ottawa, held some promise but no yield throughout the frigid and unlikely school year. With the onset of summer, our status as Carrying Place denizens secured the need for travel to find climbing. And travel we did: Bon Echo was an early foray that only provided a ferocious deluge and the unforgettable experience of watching Dave stomp on his own feet to put out the kerosene fire he had accidentally lit upon them. Two bushwhacks to Gananoque were equally rainy and unsuccessful, earning me a purple scar on my ankle. Kingston Mills and Rattlesnake Point, although successful in nature, did less good than bad in sating my climbing hunger. And so, in this way, the summer passed.

Upon reaching Vancouver in September, the last good climb I had been on was The Squamish Buttress, over a year previous in occurrence. The ensuing weeks, although in the shadow of the Chief, would give no help. Friends were busy, we were busy, or, without fail, it rained. Eventually, my petulance over the matter was too much to bear.

The weather be damned—let's go south.

 

ONE

At six in the morning, on the last day of November, we said goodbye to Rachel and found our way to America West in YVR. With a combined allowance of 420 lb. of luggage, neither Tom nor I were worried. Entrance to the US was easy, despite Tom's inability to prove his citizenship in any way. That's what short hair and an honest look will do for you. Mr. Immigration asked me all sorts of questions about climbing, and I struggled somewhat with keeping our discussion within the bounds of our natural relationship of HATE.

Our flight was unspectacular, save that it was on time. I was impressed with their breakfast. The croissant was quite fresh, and the orange juice flowed. I took my first high altitude dump. Arriving in Phoenix, we waited a couple hours for our connection, which would be the beginning of our true AW experience. The captain informed us, after a period of directionless waiting, that the plane had been overfuelled and was, as such, too heavy to land in Las Vegas. Some waiting later, we were told that the unfuelling truck was on its way. Then the truck was on its way again. Then the unfuelling took 15 minutes, then 20 minutes, then 25. When that was done, we taxied at high speed for such a long time that I began to wonder if the pilot had just given up on flying. We arrived in Vegas an hour behind. I pulled a muscle in my shoulder because luggage buggies cost $2, and we were in "vacation deprivation" mode. The thinking behind this is that if one deprives themselves of the goodies in life for short periods of time, then recommencing said goodies tends to colour them more favorably than they may deserve. More on this later. A short shuttle ride later, Hertz Rentals surprised us with some unsurprising additional costs. It seems that in Nevada, while it is illegal to drive without liability, nearly 40% of the populace avoids this pesky insurance. I was incredulous to discover that Hertz did NOT require liability either. Being of sound mind, the long of the short caused our car rental budget to triple.

We arrived at 13 mile campground well after dark. In the first moments of being in the Nevada desert we figured out the groove: day warm, night cold. We set about making dinner and camp. Tom fell victim to McDonald's shortly before this, yet it never seemed to bung him up the way it would me. On short trips, I have found meals at MD to be a great way to stave off movements until a return to the comforts of the home WC.


TWO

Upon recollection, it seems the first two days were our only early days. In my excitement, I was making tea, waiting for the sun to catch up with me. Tom and I had decided to climb Olive Oil, in Juniper Canyon, and when the gate opened at 6:55am, we were passing through. Red Rocks can best be described as a long ridge of sandstone, punctuated with dark and broken canyons. Some are shallow, some are deep, but all have a fantastic mix of red and golden yellow bands, with vast brown plates of 'desert varnish'. We parked, packed, and began to hike. In what continued to be a voyage of discovery, we discovered that the approach maps in the guidebook are SHIT. As a logical corollary, we discovered that the approach times are also SHIT. All the same, we eventually found ourselves on the gritty and pocketed faces of Rose Tower. The climb was a fantastic introduction to the area, with cracks, traverses, huecos, and runout chimneys. On the fifth pitch, in particular, a huge ledge gave a very rewarding view of the Red Rock locale, with Las Vegas in the distance. The city produces its fair share of smog, and the noxious brown cloud was seen daily, hanging—sometimes obscuring—the Las Vegas valley. We finished atop the tower and Tom was subjugated to another iffy descent. As if a reward, he found a perfectly good #1.5 friend along the path.

Enter camp fire. Hot dogs graced the menu for a second time. Already, vacation depravation was in effect. If VD was only saving us money now, soon it would make showers and a real meal seem like a gift from heaven. To dress the meal, we fetched our McDonald's stock from the glove box. If MD is great for anything, it is their paralysis in dealing with ridiculous requests for condiments. Lots of ketchup please. And sugar, yes. Salt. Fork, knife, spoon...two sets please. Shouldn't they scream? "It's a Happy Meal for chrissake!" As a result, Fancy Ketchup adorned our dawgs. I suggested the classic Frogland for the next day of action, and we slept.


THREE

I can't be sure about the exact time of our third discovery, but I am sure it was by or before this day. I will never buy a Mazda Protégé. I can't say that I have settled on any clear or reportable reasons for this decision, but the 8 day experience left me wanting a bit more. It has power windows, which are in eternal threat of burning out. This would leave one either gasping for fresh air, wet, freezing, deaf, or gagging on fumes, depending on the position of the window upon burnout. Moreover, the window control had some counter-intuitive fiddle-diddly where you had to pull to make it go up. Also, in a stroke of true genius, some engineer set the gear ratio so that it constantly hops between 3rd and 4th when cruising at America's most common highway speed of 60 mph. This is maddening, and certainly threatened our group cohesion when traveling.

We arrived at Black Velvet Canyon shortly before 7 am, only to find a parties from Utah and California already present. Surely as the sky was blue, they both were bent on climbing Frogland. Upon reconsideration, I convinced Tom to head out to Black Velvet Wall, which housed many worthy routes, including the much acclaimed A Dream Of Wild Turkeys. As could be expected, we followed a somewhat erroneous path to the route, scrambling up and backing off of crumbling escarpments, and tearing the collar off of a favorite t-shirt, until we finally arrived at the base of the headwall in something like 3 or 4 times the estimated approach time.

Black Velvet Wall is a forbidding feature. It towers at an average of 12 pitches in length, is mostly vertical, and is completely covered by dark varnished plates. It is clear to me now that the mental impact of standing beneath such a behemoth is considerable, but we roped up all the same, expecting to finish the climb. Tom set off on the first pitch. Terror consumed him shortly, with all visible and audible effects present. I pretended to be unaffected, but as the second pitch stretched on, I also developed the heeby geebys. With us both hanging at the second anchors, the wall loomed ominously above us. The executive decision to escape was made. Later, I met a friendly Coloradan who had done the route. "It's a great route, and the crux is trivial," he said, "be sure to take it to the top."

Being early still, we departed for Calico Basin where, reportedly, there are many single pitch moderate routes worth doing. Miraculously, we found the routes within only double the time suggested, and I tackled the left-facing corner of Valentine's Day. In a continued stream of events that called for the end of the day, we both struggled considerably. At one point, Tom was talking to both his leg and himself in a desperate bid for control; "Dammit, leg, stop shaking! Now is not the time to shake! OK, Tom, now concentrate!" In looking for The Route To Mecca we found a rattlesnake nestled near the trail. Soon after, Tom spotted a scorpion that turned out to be a leaf. With our psyches against us, we turned tail and fled for the car. We spent the remainder of our daylight wandering amongst the riotous walls and natural corrals of the First Pullout area. It was a brilliant place to experience the warm glow of sunset.

Back at camp, we whiled the hours away before the time when we would head into town to pick up my miscreant brother, Dave. By now VD was in full effect, and our Lipton's meal of Butter and Herb Pasta was incredible. Not only did the BHP hit the spot for warmth in a rapidly cooling desert, it was an orgy of taste compared to our "daily bread" of granola and fruit bars. Once in town, Tom found an internet cafe that was only partially outrageous in price, and looked into an e-prospect of the opposite sex. In later discussion, we agreed that e-dating is inherently flawed for several reasons; try balancing brevity and appeal in a descriptor, and you will sound like everyone else. I am a single male, 25-30 years, educated, social drinks/smoker, who enjoys the outdoors, good humour, and travel. Looking for something more, are you? BOX #12345. Since one might assume that internet dating is really just a way to sift through the crap more easily, from a larger selection of people, then a soporific uniformity is rather defeating. As it turns out, his date wouldn't even drive across Langley to meet him. It's like blackjack, I guess: low bet, low return.

Dave arrived in true fashion, sporting a plaid golf cap and old man duds. As per our request, he brought CDs and soon we were driving down Tropicana Ave, listening to James Brown belt out The Big Payback. James was really in his prime then, and, for me, one line really sums him up: "I don't know karate, but I know ka-razy!" The Strip was alive with people, and after a few queries, we decided to head for The Pussycat Lounge. As promised by our cabbie, it was a "dirty joint, with dirty girls." We were fleeced almost before the door closed behind us: $10 cover, and a two drink minimum. It seems that the domestic O'Dooles is hard to come by on that end of town, and as a direct result, beers were $6 a bottle. Two minutes into our visit we were $76 lighter. Reaching the "lounge" I waffled for where to sit, before heading for an inconspicuous corner table. The room was predictably dark, with a figure 8 stage, sporting two poles. I spotted the pole cleaning rag sitting on one edge of the stage, a practical hygiene aspect of stripping that somehow shocked me when I first visited a club in Vancouver. Dave, of course, headed directly for "gyno row" and seated himself beside the rag. In the couple of hours that ensued, I spent my time in the front row trying to fend off solicited sex in the most genial way possible, while following the customs of the natives in giving monetary tribute to the dancers. The strippers were significantly more aggressive than their northern counterparts. One dancer was crawling around naked, collecting her tips from the stage when she turned on three latinos who hadn't coughed up. "This is how I make my money, you cheap motherfuckers!" Another dancer we talked to, during one round of soliciting, was working a year here before starting her career as a K-5 teacher. Truth remains stranger than fiction.

Thoroughly polluted, we returned to the cold Nevada desert.


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