Grand wall Granny

At 58 years of age, the author's mom onsight leads The Grand Wall clean, via the Scott Cosgrove free variation (13a). In a humbling lesson, the author learns that moms know best.

Lemma* (see footnote)

As a fan of the entire Star Wars series, I have often wondered about Yoda. Here is this little green man dressed in a burlap bag, living in a swamp. He looks old and weak. I could envision just about any stormtrooper coming by and crushing him like a farty old puppet. Yet everybody tells me that you don't fuck with Yoda; he'll frown, close his eyes, and start shaking a little bit**. Then he raises his hands like any good baptist preacher and before you can utter "praise the Lord" you're toast. Hard to believe, but Attack Of The Clones finally delivered some pudding. Yoda is the most powerful Jedi and a bona fide hardman.


     

 Yoda reclines in a Dagoba swamp
 

 Mom reclines at Kits Beach

Most people don't believe me when I say that my mom can flash 5.13b. Once on a trip to Fountenbleau she fell off a V13 and some boulderer came over to help her up. He assumed that she was just an old lady who was walking around and fell over. She borrowed his chalk, asked him to spot, and sent it on her second try. The rest of the day was spent giving beta to amazed locals. At 58 years of age, she is a proud grandmother twice over. She likes to make wedding cakes, go for walks, and sketch out on new wave A4, although aiding isn't her favorite. In fact, there's nothing she likes more than long free climbs.

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Footnotes:

*A preliminary or auxiliary proposition or theorem demonstrated or accepted for immediate use in a demonstration of some other proposition.

** I have it from reliable sources that the shaking seen in many Yoda scenes comes from Frank Oz jamming his arm further up the puppet's ass. Lucas liked the look and it stayed.