The Chief: Shorter Routes

   

Exasperator 5.10c ***1/2

It's a bit of a steep haul to the base of The Grand. There'll be no question as to when you're there though, and within seconds you will find yourself looking at a fantastic thin-hands crack that splits an otherwise flawless granite face. Climb it in two pitches (10a, 10c; 2 ropes to rap!)

My first experience with this route was on a cold day in November. My fingers nearly froze to the stone, and the route kicked my ass, but it's okay to have one's ass kicked by a mega classique.

 

     

 Merci Me 5.8 R ***

A huge flake leans against the base of The Grand, to the left of Exasperator. Ramble (scary) to the top by cutting left along the base until it is possible to strike right along thin ledges with fixed ropes. At the apex of the aforementioned huge flake is a barely bolted route of epic proportions and extreme value. Trend tenderly up a dyke for two pitches amidst a sea of unclimbed granite. Take two ropes. Classic.

   

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