The Yosemite of Our Discontent
"Alpha, Beta, Charlie, Delta, Echo, Foxtrot, Golf, Hotel, India, Juliette...damn. What was K again?" That's as far as I would get, reciting the pilot's alphabet. I had been working on it all night, along with jokes and other sundries that were meant to keep us awake. Now the word is in: spending a night on Upper Cathedral Peak with no sleepies is overrated.
Tom, Nicole, and I ventured down from Vancouver, BC to Yosemite with plans of high adventure. With the aid of caffeine, and the idiocy of youth unbounded, we drove 21 hours straight, stopping only to enjoy a Billy-Bob burger at a truck stop in Coburg, OR. Tom's Jetta performed well, which is more than I can say for it on a subsequent journey, which ultimately foreshadowed its death (it is now has a space in the Great Parking Lot In The Sky).
We slept in a parking lot in nearby Mariposa. I found a snug bush under which I tucked myself, only to be awaken in complete horror by a nearby dump truck doing its early rounds. This reminds me strongly of sleeping in a floppy tent alongside a desert highway, where 18-wheelers roared by at speeds that shook the tent and made the bladder tremble. With each set of headlights, my pulse quickened in anticipation of gruesome death.
Eventually we found ourselves in El Cap Meadows, standing as I had done once before, transfixed. The Cathedral Peaks were so huge and sexy. We were helpless to resist the lure of the stone.
Around the fire that night, at Camp 4, we decided that Upper Cathedral Rock housed an enviable route, Braille Book. It was moderate in grade, and well off the beaten path. It would be a worthy prize. We set off early the next day, passing under the shadow of El Cap. The hike to the base was demanding, wending its way through a steep forested slope for quite some time before merging with a long talus fan. It was over two hours before we reached the base of Braille Book.
The base of the Cathedral was still surrounded by a ribbon of late snow and ice. But eventually we were standing below our long and featured dihedral. Racking up, we packed no more than what we needed for the day (yeah, this is the part where you're supposed to groan). Since the descent was fairly lengthy, we included our shoes.
I found the first pitches delightful and low in stress. There were many indicators that people had passed here before us, although it was hard at time to determine where the belay was intended to be. At the second belay already, we had a commanding view of the valley. Of some concern, were the packs. Nicole and Tom were understandably struggling somewhat with sections where the dihedral narrowed. I was bothered by the inconvenience of it. On the following pitch we decided to try hauling the packs (yeah, this is another groaning part).
Leaving the ledge, I encountered the first of the problems that would hamper our progress and ultimately have us assuming very intimate positions to maintain body heat. An exhilarating bulge move gave way to a ledge, some thirty feet above our previous belay. On this ledge was a huge rock with a tattered collection of slings. That I didn't ascertain this as the intended second belay is a link in the chain that we call experience. I paid no mind, and headed up the tasty crack above. After quite a while, I found that ledges were in small supply. I saw a candidate some distance ahead. A yelling match about remaining rope length ensued. Somehow, in the cacophony of echoes, sense was made, and I reached my candidate. It was a doubtful slot with a largish chockstone. I slung the stone, but it made disconcerting grinding noises when I committed my weight. Out of options, I forced my skinny ass into the slot above, rigged an anchor, and crouched in the vomit position. Ages later, Tom and Nicole were both thirty feet higher, at the intended anchor. I wrenched my aching body from the slot and ventured on.
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