Sierras 2007
The north face of Fairview Dome (G.Dargaud photo)Fairview Dome
On the third and last day of our trip, Roger and I decided to tackle the famed "Regular Route" on Fairview Dome. As a member of the 50 Classic Climbs of North America,
it has a rather fearsome reputation of getting plugged up with gumbies.With this is mind we kipped extra early and set the alarm for 5:00 am. I tried desperately to sleep while our neighbours freaked out about a bear that had wandered into their campsite.
First pitch: ski track cracksThe bear must have been confused, and spent quite a bit of time hanging arround, checking things out. Now, I'm not a bear expert, but there were probably a few things that might have been mitigating factors, including but not limited to:
- a screaming lady
- a little barking dog
- a giant, open bag of dog food leaning against a tree
- a boy taking pictures through the car window
- a half finished bag of Doritos on a camp chair (compliments of the boy)
After what seemed like forever, the bear fucked off and we got some sleep.
Hero moves through steep and easy flakes
Look Ma, no brain!
Tuolomne texture(I should not fail to mention here that just earlier that day I saw a "garbage deer" wandering around the campground like a junkie, while people fed it celery and marshmallows, taking pictures all the way. And to think that my instinct was to yell and throw a beer bottle at it. Shame!)
We awoke right on schedule, and despite a temptation to do so, we avoided altogether the repeated slamming of car doors that can accompany the loading up of gear. I silently raced up the twisiting highway, keeping with the locals in my complete disregard for the well-being of wildlife in the park.
We screamed to a halt at the Fairview Dome pullout, 5:58 am, and stared in disbelief at the jeep that was already parked there.
Mother fuckers.
Not just another couple of 50 Classic Climb Heroes...We trudged to the base like two dudes who started stupid early and still got scooped. Eventually, we broke through the trees, found the route and, incredibly, saw no one for miles around.
Spirits lifted, we racked up and admired the business to come. The dome is reasonably steep, and I was excited to see that the route wandered through some pretty unlikely looking territory. Like the sort of thing you would probably expect to be 5.11+ if it hadn't already been done a million times and recorded in dozen guidebooks.
The first pitch, a thin set of double cracks, provided the only technical crux and went by quickly.
Descent through a gently sloping sea of graniteSeveral pitches up, nearing the overhangs, the hero moves begin to arrive--easy stemming on steep ground, big holds through short roofs, and a steep hand traverse across a large detached flake. And just when it seems like it is nothing but big holds, there's a though provoking traverse that tip-toes along small features and knobs before gaining a giant sickle.
The route had everything.Finally, joining up at the 7th belay anchor, Roger and I saw a party arrive at base. We finished, tagged the summit, and wandered down in time to see them finish the 3rd pitch, with four parties waiting behind them. Shazam!
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