Dan of  The Motorscooter Guide website  wrote to say he's attending the Garden city Scooter run hosted by the Capital City scooter club this coming weekend.  If you're in the area (Victoria, British Columbia) check it out for a weekend of scooter  activities and socializing.  It's the 25th anniversary of this Rally and the rides are always good fun with lots of fantastic scenery and scooters in convoy.. As well you can  buy a Rally pack with all sorts of goodies and also get some raffle tickets to win this scooter being raffled off.  So if you're in the lower mainland or Vancouver Island get those scooters ready for a road trip and maybe make some tentative arrangements on how to get that Vespa back home.

Dan also wrote to say he had an article published in this months Scooter Canada magazine so be sure to check out the magazine (along with others)  at your local newstand.

Being a font of info, Dan also mentioned Honda USA had announced that they'd be bringing a new scooter model into their line-up, the Honda Elite 110 known as the the 110 cc Honda Lead in other markets.  The Lead model name has been around since the 80's and was sold world-wide in great numbers. North Americans would have last seen a "stripped down version" of the direct descendant of the 110cc Lead in the 80's and know them as Aero 80 scooters.  Honda's Elite name has a good reputation in North America so it only makes sense to market the Lead under that name.  A few years back Honda had been announcing they were going to replace the Elite 80 with one of their third world stripper models (Honda Beat, Activa etc) which sort of made sense. The introduction of the 110 cc Lead was a bit of a pleasant shocker  

  The Lead family initally had two stroke motors and evolved (outside North America) into the beginning of the 21st century from 80 to 90 to 100 cc motors.  The Lead was never known as a "sporty" scooter but rather a stylish and well equipped commuter scooter.  The fact they had reliable, responsive motors with good gas mileage and Honda quality built in was good enough to make them popular world wide  in countries where riding a scooter to work every day was considered "normal".

The Lead 110 first appeared in a Jan15, 2008 announcement by Honda Japan. The major change in the Lead family's latest reincarnation was to a four stroke motor that was liquid cooled and fuel injected. A big jump from the aircooled , carbureted two stroke.  The following is excerpted from their intial press release.  The translation is from the original  Japanese text to to English by Google who obviously has no idea what a KYATARAIZA means. To help me understand, I sometimes pronounce the word quickly with a Japanese accent. Kyataraiza  instantly becomes "catalyzer" which fits in the context of the description.  HENJOI!!
 
Newly developed engine with excellent environmental performance

Water-cooled design of new compact and lightweight 4-stroke OHC single-cylinder 110cc engine, in order to balance the smooth running of the city with a strong environmental performance, electronic fuel injection system (PGM-FI) system.  This system, in which fuel is an ideal computer-controlled driving conditions, fuel consumption is 50.0km / L (60km / h fixed area driving test values) have been achieved.  PGM-FI, and the adoption of KYATARAIZA, 2007 and is relevant to Domestic motorcycle emissions.

● fully equipped with superior ease of use

And easier to use in pursuit of the main use is commuting, lower class seats a maximum capacity of 35L of storage space.  B4 are useful tools that can hold the bag and size.  Brakes, rear wheel interlocking brake adopted before to get a stable braking force.  Large aluminum rear carrier is to match the height and shape of the seat surface and seat, and the superior convenience when carrying luggage.   length of 650mm, with a low seat height and a foot high arrived, and it will be a comfortable position in the two-seater.

●  design combines a sporty and luxurious

Styling is suitable for scooters and active behavior in urban areas, while incorporating the image of four-wheel drive sports sedan has a sporty image and high quality.  Body, which consists of a sharp curved from front to rear, and satisfy a sense of ownership, and those against the city.

Former principal

Name		Lead
Model		Honda EBJ-JF19
Overall Length × Width × Height (m)		1.835×0.665×1.125
Wheelbase (m)		1.275
Minimum height (m)		0.105
Seat height (m)		0.740
Vehicle weight (kg)		114
Riding capacity (persons)		2
Minimum turning radius (m)		1.9
Type of engine		JF19E water-cooled 4-stroke OHC single cylinder
Total emission (cm 3)		107
Inside diameter × stroke (mm)		50.0×55.0
Compression ratio		11.0
Maximum output (kW [PS] / rpm)		6.6 [9.0] / 7,500
Maximum torque (N m [kg m] / rpm)		9.3 [0.95] / 6,250
Fuel consumption rate (km / L)		5 50.0 (60km / h test run place fixed value)
fuel supply system		（PGM-FI） Electronically controlled electronic fuel injection
Starting method		Self-expression ( electric starter?)
Ignition type		Full transistor ignition with battery
Lubrication system		Combined with pressure feed spray
Fuel tank capacity (L)		6.5
Clutch type		Dry multi-plate shoe ceremony
Transmission format		Infinitely variable pulley drive
Transmission gear ratio	pulley drive	2.590 to 0.880
Reduction ratio	primary reduction	2.500 2.500
	secondary reduction	3.769 3.769
Caster (degrees) / Trail (mm)		26 ° 30 '/ 74
Tire Size	Front	90／90-12 44J
	Rear	100／90-10 56J
Brake type	Front	Hydraulic disc
	Rear	Drum Brake
Suspension system	Front	telescoping
	Rear	Unit swing arm
Frame format		tubing "underbone" type

Manufacturer / 5 sheep -摩receptacle Honda (Guangzhou) Manufacturing Co., Ltd. Country / distributors china import /

I've never been into the motorcycle design of scooters that started in the late 90's. A scooter is a scooter and  if I wanted the looks of a  motorcycle I'd buy a motorcycle. A  scooter set up for racing at least still looks like a scooter.  Having said that, a scooter has to perform well in stop and go urban traffic or it's just a toy. The Lead family has always embodied the scooter concept of being all weather, inexpensive, reliable urban transport and kept to the basics while also offering high quality assembly and parts. The parts are "overdesigned" enough that I can always satisfy my "make it better" nature by squeezing more hp out of it and retain reliability (even if the stock version was totally adequate for my needs).   Out of all the scooters I've driven, the 1980's Aero 80 was the most reliable sensible urban transport and the 110 version Hondas offering will have close to the same power as an Elite 150  in a much higher refined package.  Yeah I want one. Subtle design with all weather protection and "big bore" kits are already on the market.  No waiting for spare parts from Europe or the next container from China and  Hondas superior parts and assembly make it a no-brainer.  

Naturally the hype will compare it to the BWS 125, Vino 125, Kymco, Euro-copies, China clones etc etc but  if you're looking for serious reliable long-term urban transport and not just a toy for nice weather, The Elite 110 is the standout choice of any competitor.  The Question is whether North America will finally consider a scooter for daily urban commuting like the rest of the world. 

If you want to see further info, I've uploaded a pdf file of a UK model 2008 Honda Lead 110 brochure (yes, its in English)

end of rant
Doug

The Helix continues to be stripped down. I took off the lh crankcase cover to inspect the pulse generator, flywheel and exciter coil.  Even though they test OK, I've had cases in the past on other scooters where the distance between the pulse generator and the tab on the flywheel was excessive and led to a weak spark.  Thought I'd take a peek to see if there were any physical problems  that were resulting in no spark.

 While poking about I came across a relatively large loose metal  part. Haven't figured out where it comes from (probably have to take the flywheel off first) but it did do damage to the tab on the flywheel . There was a couple of "dents" in the leading edge. They looked severe like someone had taken an axe to it. It's not easy measuring the clearance between pulse generator and flywheel tab as the flywheel is still mounted on the crankcase side and the pulse generator is mounted on the cover . Hmmm.  Need a flywheel remover to proceed.  In the meantime I'm stripping the cooling hoses, radiator, gas tank and any frame pieces that get in the way of cleaning the frame and removing the minor rust spots. The sidestand, kickstand and foot brake mechanisms also need to be replaced, stripped painted and lubricated.

The last Helix I had was a high mileage like this one but was stored inside. This one has a dramatic difference underneath from being parked outside (the last few years at any rate).  A quick powerwash doesn't quite do the trick and I'm down to scraping with a dental pick and feel like an archaeologist unearthing an ancient relic.

A couple of Holder Helixes appeared in the paper recently for $2700-$3000 so that was heartening unti I found out from my local insurance agent that the bluebook value is $600. So you buy the low mileage immaculate Helix for $2500 and are riding along when a soccer mom on her cellphone runs into the back of you pretty well destroying the rear body panels/subframe. The scooter goes over on its side and theres some more scrapes and damage there. You drive the scooter to get a repair estimate and go to make a claim and the insurance company decides to "write it off" for $600 because the repair costs exceed that.  If you're driving one of those pristine older scooters (or bike or car) you might want to think about getting an appraisal . Otherwise you could find yourself getting 1/4 the amount of replacement after all those years of paying premiums.  

Another offering below of what I'd like to do body-wise after the frame and motor are  done-up. Basically I've extended the luggage compartment 6 inches, raised it a bit (full face helmet room?) fabricated a new lower fairing at front and raked the windshield another 10 degrees.  The front panel work should allow me to extend the width of the floorboards so I can sit "feet forward" without wind whistling up my pantlegs. It'll also allow a bit better streamlining and put a bit more weight on the front for stability at speed.  If I can rake the radiator a bit forward I can also change the air intake to the front of the fairing. Hoping this doesn't disrupt the airflow as much as the stock arrangement.

Doug   

    Still in Helix Investigation mode and trying to figure out what's wrong with the ignition system. Everything (exciter coil, ground, pulse generator ignition coil etc) tests as OK . Gives me time to fiddle about with the rest and make a list of things that should be replaced and/or rebuilt.

 I often wonder why I just don't save all the money I spend on scooter "projects" and just buy a new(er) scooter. Lots of shiny new parts and there's still lots of options for personalizing scooters, doing maintenance and  spending sunny days polishing and cleaning. Not to mention parts are easier to find and buy.

Must be a personality flaw. Seeing as the body parts need major work, I've continued with using a graphics program to construct some reasonably simple modifications.  The graphic below is one that should give more storage with an extended trunk and better streamlining with a front lower cowl and slightly raked windshield.
 Just to make sure I keep my enthusiasm level high, I'm getting a coffee cup from my CafePress shop so I can be inspired each morning.

Guess I should get the scooter running first before I start cutting into the body panels.

 

The Project 1986 Helix was finally delivered last week and I've been busy disassembling and inspecting it. Chinese replacement body panels from ebay are very fragile and seem to crack if you look at them sideways. I've identified and fixed two electrical problems, one with the help of a member of the Yahoo CN250 group who were able to post a pic with the wiring set up to the Ignition control module. Two wires were reversed on mine and the ground wire had a 1/4 inch of rust between the straps and frame mount.

 Aside from that, it was in a very neglected state. The oil filter was filled with "stuff" and looked like it had never been cleaned. If the electrical problem hadn't occured, the engine wouldn't have lasted much longer as the filter was close to being clogged and, without oil, the engine would have self-destructed.

 Ahead is a lot of cleaning, minor surface rust removal and replacement of normal maintenance parts (air filter, spark plug, oil etc etc)  and worn out parts (front brake rotor, pads and rebuild kits for the brake and master cylinder ). I'll check the belt, clutch and roller weights for wear and am keeping a list of parts needed. I should be able to try firing up the motor tommorrow. That'll get me motivated to spend more money and time if the engine runs. Still won't take it for more than a low speed ride up the driveway until the engines all tidied up.

  At night I've been doodling with a photo program experimenting with custom bodywork. Seeing as the bodywork is cracked everywhere I'll have to do some major repairs so was thinking some improvements could be made while I'm at it. The following shows one version.