Painting and Scenic Art
Safety in the paint shop:
Although scenic artists sometimes work with toxic chemicals, painting is a fairly safe endeavour as long as proper protective equipment is worn, and safe working procedures are followed. Below, I will list some of the most common paints found in the scene shop, their characteristics, and how to use them safely.
Latex, or water-based paint: Most brands of scenic paint fall into this category, and it is advisable and preferable to use this type of paint wherever possible. Unless you drink it, splash a lot of it in your eyes, or have specific allergies, it presents very little in the way of health risks (this does not apply to fish, so try to put as little down the drain as possible). Also, it can be easily thinned and cleaned up with water, and has a drying time of about 40 minutes to 1 hour. This allows for rapid application of the multi-layered surface techniques employed by scenic painters. It is easy to tell this type of paint, simply by reading the instructions on the can - if they say "thin and clean up with water", then you have the right stuff. Most painters will use an actual "scenic" brand (such as Rosco), because they have a more vibrant color, and are intended to be thinned with water. Household paint can be used in some instances (as long as it is water-based), especially for basic black and white, but it is usually not meant to be thinned..
Enamel or oil-based paint: This type of paint is not used as often in scenic art, for several reasons. First, the vapours from this type of paint are toxic (and smelly). This product should only be used in well ventilated areas, and a respirator should be worn. Second, it can only be cleaned or thinned with special products, all of which are toxic (and very flammable). Enamel paint does not mix or clean with water - you must use turpentine, methyl hydrate, paint thinner, or something similar. Each of these additives not only have the same harmful vapours as the paint, but as an added bonus, they are absorbed by the skin and can cause all kinds of diseases. So obviously, you also need to wear rubber gloves (not surgical gloves) when you are painting with enamels -- because the only way to get it off your skin is by using these toxic thinners -- so avoid skin contact in the first place. Safety glasses should also be worn, as enamels and thinners are extreme eye irritants. The final drawback, is that enamel paints have a drying time of about 16 hours. Most scenic techniques rely on multi-layered coats (washes) to build up texture. You simply couldn't do this in practical terms, using enamels. Enamels do have a place for some marble techniques, when a high gloss is needed (particularly silver), or when painting metal, -- but wherever possible, use latex paints - they are not only safer, but they save a lot of time in the application, and don't have the problems with cleanup. Enamels and thinners require special disposal methods. Never put enamels or thinners down the drain, and do not smoke anywhere near thinners or solvents.
Bronzing and Dye powders: These are designed to be mixed with clear base, glaze, or some other medium, and are often used for painting fabric backdrops. Because they are often mixed with latex glaze, they have the rapid drying time of scenic paint. Unlike paint, however, they don't go on as thick and as such, they allow fabrics to retain more of their softness. Although there are some non-toxic, vegetable based dyes, most theatrical dye powders are very harmful. They can be inhaled during the mixing process, can get into your eyes, or can be absorbed through the skin during application. You should wear a particle mask, rubber gloves, and safety glasses when mixing dye powders; gloves and glasses when applying the product.
Stains, Varnishes and Glazes: These products are not paints, but can be mixed with paint, dyes, or used on their own for a variety of effects. They come in either water or solvent based format, and have the same basic handling instructions as outlined above. Again, use water based wherever possible, for reasons of both health and ease of use. If you opt for a solvent based product, you will have the same concerns as for enamel paint. You cannot mix water and solvent based products together (although oil based product can be applied over dry water based product)
Spray paint: There are several ways to apply spray paint and again, the safe handling procedures are determined by whether you are using water-base, or enamel paint. In all cases, when using any kind of compressed spray, you will need to wear an approved particle mask at the very least. If you are spraying something that is oil or solvent based, then you will need a respirator with both a particle filter, and a vapour cartridge. Try to do any spraying (even with small, vandal-issue spray cans), in a well ventilated area.
Paint vocabulary:
Primary Colors: There are three primary colors in paint: Red, Blue, and Yellow. These are called primary, because they cannot be made by mixing any other colors together.
Secondary Colors: There are also three secondary colors, Orange, Purple, and Green. They are made by combining the primary colors - Red + Yellow = orange, Red + Blue = Purple, Blue + Yellow = Green.
The Color Wheel, demonstrated below, illustrates the relationship between the primary and secondary colors:
A Compliment, is a one color that is opposite another, on the color wheel. Blue, for example, is a compliment of Orange and vice versa. A color will appear brighter and more vivid, when it is placed next to its compliment.
Mixing a color with white or black, will simply produce a lighter or darker shade of that particular color. To create a different color in the same range (for example to get an olive green from pure, secondary green), other colors will need to be added. You can de-saturate a color, by mixing it with it's opposite color on the wheel. Browns and flesh colors have all been de-saturated. Colors that have been mixed with their compliments will be very dark. White can then be added until the desired value is achieved.
Hue, refers to the actual color quality (e.g.: red, green, blue).
Saturation, refers to the deepness of a color. Fire-engine red, is a saturated red.
Value, is the relative lightness or darkness of a color.
A Shade, is generally a color of lighter value.
A Tone, is a color that has been mixed lighter or darker, with black or white, or de-saturated.
A Wash is created, when paint is thinned down with water or glaze. In scenic painting, consecutive wash coats, each one thinned a bit more than the last, are applied over a base coat to create depth and richness. Most faux finish techniques such as wood grain, brick, marble and rock, rely on multiple layers of wash coats to build up the desired finish.