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As the cold season approaches once again, we will increasingly be turning to skin care products to help prevent skin dryness, preserve suppleness and correct minor skin blemishes. But just how safe are the creams and lotions that we use? Modern skin care and cosmetic products, even so-called ‘natural’ ones, are full of dubious synthetic ingredients. Isn’t it about time that we treated our biggest organ with more respect by paying attention to what we put on it?

Almost from the moment of our appearance on this planet, humans have been preoccupied with trying to improve upon the package they arrive in. Our fascination with preserving youthfulness and our appreciation of beauty are part of our nature: we know that looking good not only makes us more attractive to others but also makes us feel better about ourselves.

Hence, we do not shy away from spending considerable amounts of money on products from the beauty and wellness industry. We treat our skin to “miracle” creams, lotions and serums without blinking a mascara-swathed eye. After all, we have laws and government agencies that protect us and assure us that the products we use on our hair and skin are safe, right? Don’t be too sure.

Modern skincare and cosmetics contain a host of ingredients that sound as though they would be more at home in a test tube than on our faces. Although for most of us the majority of products appear safe in the short run, results from long-term use could be far from this. This is especially true considering that we are additionally exposed to unavoidable threats such as air pollution and UV radiation. Toxins are ubiquitous in modern-day, urban life. So, why do we voluntarily add to our lifestyle-related risks by consuming age-defying skin care products that contain numerous potentially harmful ingredients? Probably it is due to our lack of information, deceptive PR strategies of the cosmetics industry, and our desire for short-term results rather than long-term health.

Let’s have a look at some of the more commonly used toxic, synthetic ingredients:

The most commonly used preservatives in skin and hair care products, parabens inhibit microbial growth. They are known to be toxic and can cause allergic reactions[1]. What is even more frightening: British researchers from Brunel University recently discovered that parabens may be hormone disruptors, including an ability to mimic estrogen[2].

A colourless liquid derived from soybeans or coconut oil. DEA-related ingredients such as lauramide DEA or cocamide DEA are widely used as emulsifiers or foaming agents. They are potential carcinogens and, when combined with other toxic chemicals such as SLS (Sodium Laureth Sulfate), they become even more hazardous by the formation of nitrosamines (highly carcinogenic substances.) DEA is banned from European products while it remains “under observation” by Health Canada.

An ingredient used in antifreeze and brake fluid. It is also used as a delivery vehicle and solvent instead of glycerin. Cheaper and more readily absorbed than glycerin, propylene glycol is found in numerous beauty preparations. This chemical is acknowledged to be a neurotoxin by the US National Institute for Occupational Safety & Health[3]. Recent studies have linked it to dermatitis, kidney damage and liver abnormalities.

These chemicals are found in 90% of all commercial shampoos, as well as skin creams and some toothpastes. Popular with cosmetics manufacturers because of its lathering properties, SLS is a known skin irritant. It damages the skin barrier function, increases the allergic response to other toxins and can even alter the RNA/DNA of skin cells. SLS was originally formulated as a carpet detergent.

These are the second most commonly used preservatives. They are recognized as a primary cause of contact dermatitis (American Academy of Dermatology.) These chemicals have good antifungal action but are very toxic. They release highly carcinogenic formaldehyde at just over 10°C.

This chemical is often used in cosmetics to adjust the pH. Commonly used with many fatty acids to convert acid to salt (stearate), this then becomes a base for skin cleansers. TEA causes allergic reactions including eye problems and dryness of hair and skin.

An emollient and emulsion stabilizer used especially in moisturizers. It has a dehydrating and sometimes irritating effect and can cause hives. Cetyl alcohol is less expensive than grain alcohol and is often used in its place. The inclusion of alcohol in a moisturizer contradicts the intended effect of the product to moisturize the skin.

Shocked or concerned? The list of potentially harmful ingredients is long and the average shopper cannot even pronounce most of these names. How, therefore, can we know what they are or how they might impact our health? Have you ever heard of methenamine, hydroxypropyl methylcellulose or cocamidopropyl hydroxysultaine? One needs a dictionary to read and understand most ingredient labels of modern skin care products.

It is undisputed that skin care products can be helpful in preserving healthy skin. In particular, exposure to the elements can have a damaging effect on our skin. Dry, cold air, lack of sunlight or overexposure to UVA&B radiation can cause our epidermis (outer skin layer) to lose its elasticity and moisture. Furthermore, air pollution and constant exposure to chemicals such as chlorine can weaken the defense mechanism of our epidermis. Nutrients like vitamin E act as cell stabilizers and though they can be ingested, our skin receives less and less of them as we age. Topical supply of vitamins, minerals, herbs and health-promoting plants (such as neem, aloe vera and calendula) can assist our skin’s defense mechanisms, especially if the nutrient is from natural sources rather than synthesized. We should, however, not accept ingredients known to be dangerous or those that are not sufficiently researched, especially in view of their unknown interactions with other substances.

As a shopper, we want to make informed choices. Requesting full disclosure of ingredients on labels is a necessary first step and avoiding ingredients of a harmful nature is a definite recommendation. Look for products with easy-to-read ingredient labels. Insist on products that are manufactured with only natural ingredients. To conclude, here are a few (inexpensive) tips to maintain youthful, healthy skin: Eat healthy, drink lots of water, avoid frequent hot showers or baths, use humidifiers in your home, minimize stress and get enough sleep. For sensitive skin, I also recommend the use of carbon filters on showerheads and water faucets

[1] Ruth Winter, A Consumer’s Dictionary Of Cosmetic Ingredients (New York: Three Rivers Press, 1999)

[2] Alkylphenolic Compounds, Friends of the Earth, Scotland, Dec 17, 1998

[3] Prohibited Ingredients and Related Safety Issues U.S. Food & Drug Administration Center for Food Safety and Applied Nutrition, Office of Cosmetics & Colors, March 30, 2000