Preparation for trapping
If possible, get the cats used to being fed at the same place and time of the day. You might try placing the trap nearby (closed or in a locked, open position) during routine feeding; the cats will geet used to seeing and smelling it in the area.

Don't feed the cats before you are going to trap. Be sure to notify others who are feeding the cats to not leave food out. Cats should not eat 12 hours before trapping.

Prepare the vehicle you will use to transport the cats; newspapers with plastic underneath will protect your car upholstery.

Plan your trapping carefully; make sure you have all the items you'll need. Always have a vet appointment in place before you begin trapping. If you trap and release a cat for some reason, it is unlikely that you will ever be able to catch it again.

If there are young kittens involved, they should not be weaned from the mother before four to six weeks of age. If you are trapping a lactating female, wait until you have located the kittens and determined that they are old enough to wean (i.e., eating solid food).

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Setting the traps
Plan to set traps just before the cats' normal feeding time. Dawn and dusk are usually the best times to trap.

Don't trap in the rain or the heat of day without adequate protection for the trap. Cats are vulnerable in the traps and could become ill during storms or suffer from heatstroke in the sun. Use common sense!

Fold several pieces of newspaper to line the bottom of the trap and to cover the trip plate. Cats don't like walking on the wire surface and the paper helps to keep their paws from going through when you pick the trap up. Do not cover the area between the trip plate and the rear wall of the trap. If it is windy, consider not using newspaper (the blowing paper may scare the cat away) - cardboard is a good option in that case.

Place the traps on a level surface in the area where the cats usually feed or have been seen. Cats are less likely to enter the trap if it "wobbles". If trapping in a public area, try to place traps where people won't notice them. Bushes are often places where cats hide; they also provide good camouflage for the trap.

We recommend using canned salmon or mackerel to bait the trap; however, sometimes cats are lured simply by their usual food.

Spoon (wet) food onto a plastic lid and put it onto the ground. Then place the rear of the trap over it. Press the trap down so that it "squishes" the food up through the floor of the trap. Having the food outside of the trap prevents the cat from eating immediately before surgery - that could be life-threatening! Make sure the food is as far back in the trap as possible while still not being accessible from outside. The cat should have to go completely into the trap and "work at" getting the food - long enough to activate the trap. Some cats are very good at eating the food without stepping on the trip plate!

After setting the trap, cover it with a large towel or piece of cloth. Fold the material at the front end of the trap to expose the opening. The cover will help camouflage the trap and calm the cat after it is caught. Finally, you may want to adjust the hook to create a "hair trigger". (Don't get too carried away with this because the trap may activate when the cat simply brushes by it!)

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Waiting for Success
Never leave traps unattended in a public or unprotected area! A trapped animal is vulnerable; people may release the cat or steal the trap and the cat! Wait quietly where you can still see the traps without disturbing the cats. Check traps up close approximately every 15 minutes.

From a distance, you can often hear the trap shut and see the cloth cover droop down slightly over the opening. As soon as a cat is trapped, completely cover the trap and remove it from the area. You may consider putting another trap in the same spot; otherwise, be sure to dispose of the food left on the ground where the trap was. (You don't want to litter or give out any "freebies" to spoil their appetites!)

When you get the captured cat to a quiet area away from the other traps, lift the cover and use a flashlight to look for a tattoo - it may be deep inside either ear. If you have trapped a cat you believe is a pet (i.e., collar, tags, tattoos, etc.), then release it immediately! The only exception to this would be if, in your judgement, the (pet) cat appears malnourished, injured, sick, lost or abandoned. In this case, take the cat to the clinic, but notify MCC immediately.

Cover the trap up as soon as possible! This tends to calm the cat down. Uncovered, the animal will panic and may hurt itself circling around in the trap.

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Holding procedures
Make sure the trap is securely locked or the cat will escape. As an extra precaution, use wire to secure the trap closed. Never underestimate a cat's ability or determination to escape! Their docile appearance can be very deceptive - they can suddenly lunge at the door or leap with claws out to scratch an unsuspecting observer.

You may need to keep the cats overnight until the clinic opens the next day; if so, prepare an area for them - a garage or other sheltered, protected area is best. Lay down newspapers on the floor to catch stool, urine or food and elevate the traps off the newspapers; this allows the residue to fall through the wire and away from the cats.

If a cat has urinated or defecated, you may consider removing the soiled newspaper. To do this, unlatch the front door and lift it up just enough to quickly pull the newspaper out of the trap. Be very careful to hold the door firmly in case the cat tries to escape. Do this inside an enclosed room!

Water should be available in the trap if the cat will be held for more than four hours. (Surgery is often dehydrating.) To put water inside the trap, quickly lift the door just enough to slide a small dish of water. Again, do this inside an enclosed room!

Keep the traps covered and check the cats periodically. They will probably be very quiet as long as the traps remain covered. Don't stick your fingers in the trap; keep children and pets away from the cats. These are wild animals that will scratch and bite!

If you are bitten, seek medical attention!

Change and wash your clothes before having contact with your own pets; this is a precaution against spreading any contagious disease the cats might carry. Kittens, especially, can incubate some deadly diseases!

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Delivering Cats to the Clinic
Each cat delivered to the clinic must have its own carrier (with a clean towel inside) for it to recover in after surgery. Both trap and carrier should have identical labels taped to them giving the following information: cat's name, cat's description (location where trapped, who is paying the bill, and contact phone numbers.

While waiting for service at the clinic, do not allow people or dogs to disturb the cat - it is likely already under stress. Under no circumstances allow people, other than clinic staff, to lift the trap cover to look at the cat! If necessary, wait until the clinic is less busy before going inside. Remember, the cat's well-being is very important; otherwise, the objective of trying to help them is entirely lost. Keep human contact to a minimum to lessen their stress.

Generally, clinic staff will want to know which file the cat will go under, what treatment is required, who is paying for it, and information about the cat (name, description, etc.). If you do not know the cat's gender, this can always be determined later by the veterinarian.

Before you leave, find out when the surgery will be done; it should be within 3-4 hours.

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Releasing the Cats
When picking up the cat, ensure that the clinic gives you the correct animal! Look at the label on the carrier. Does the description match the cat inside? If in doubt, ask!

Confirm when surgery was done. Male cats need at least 12 hours and female cats need 24 hours recovery time. If a cat was pregnant she should be kept at least two days following surgery. If a female has nursing kittens, she should be released 10 hours after surgery. She will be able to nurse them after surgery as long as the kittens desire it.

If the cat does not seem to be recovering well, have it looked at again by the veterinarian. Anaesthetic may leave the cat nauseous, and vomit can be dangerous to a groggy cat who might choke on it. Explain that the cat will be released to an outdoor environment and cannot be brought back later. If in doubt, the cat should be left at the clinic until it's well enough to be released.

Before leaving the clinic, make sure the vaccination certificate (signed by the vet) and the tattoo number for the cat is in the MCC file. Then, making sure the carrier is securely latched, load the cat into your car and drive to the exact location where the cat was trapped.

The release site should already have been determined to be safe, but be alert for any new or immediate hazards which might alarm the cat. If the caregiver or someone familiar to the cat is present, this can be helpful.

Place the carrier on the ground. Make sure the direction of release does not allow the cat to run out and into danger. Allow the cat a few minutes to get a sense of where it is. Observe the cat closely - it should appear animated and anxious to get out. Hold the carrier steady with the door facing away from you, and quickly open it. The cat will probably hesitate, then run out immediately. If not, watch from a few feet away until the cat exits.

When your assignment is finished, clean each trap and carrier with a solution of bleach and water. Rinse them thoroughly. Wash the towels (or discard, if soiled). Return all items to MCC, or, better yet, phone in for another assignment!

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