Rob 'n BOB on the BNT
Boyne
Island, Qld - 11
December 2003
Well, I think Gwen has given you
updates up until Collinsville. That's
where I had prepared this
lengthy and outrageously witty e-mail which disappeared into e-space
when I tried to send it. I promised myself I would from then on
save the text first in a notepad file, but on the computer I'm using at
the library here in Boyne Island (near Gladstone) there is no Notepad,
nor Wordpad! So' I'll proceed very, VERY carefully when I'm ready
to send!
In Collinsville I bought my first
travel wine, a luxury I don't normally indulge in, since I find two
liters of water generally more satisfying and useful than two liters of
wine. Who'd had thunked that! Anyway, this was a 2- liter
box of dry red Yalumba. (And Sandy: although a great improvement
over my own (in)famous Shiraz, it's certainly not as good as your OCME!)

From Collinsville I went to Eungella
Dam, which contained water, but the wind was HOWLING that day and any
illusions of spending a rest day there were blown out of my mind.
I hardly slept at all the night I was there, the tent made so much
noise flapping in the wind. From there on to Nebo and then a few
campsites along creeks that were supposed to have waterholes, but
didn't, or at least not obvious.
From a station owner I got
directions on where to find a beautiful waterhole about a kilometer up
a creek, and indeed it was well worth the effort. Next morning I
was woken by a couple of brolgas (a crane), making out on the water's
edge, not far from my tent which was hidden amongst the trees. So gracefully and
elegantly they danced and picked up sticks and other items from the
ground to "present" to the other. Quite entertaining. The
next day I had an invitation to have "tea" at another station. I
often phone a number of stations to find out what the water situation
is for the upcoming few days, and this couple invited me for supper -
very nice of them. I helped Tony repair one of the rails in a
paddock, while Michelle prepared a delicious meal. They even
served a delightful wine with it, a Queensland "Verdelah" (?). I
should have written it down right then and there, because my almost 50-
year old mind doesn't seem to contain this information for very long
anymore. It was not unlike Pinot Gris, but with a little more
tropical characters. I haven't seen any Verdelah in the bottle
shops I've been in since, and the staff at many of these drive-through
stores haven't been too well informed. Or could it be I who isn't
too well informed?
In St. Lawrence I took a day
off. Did some fishing off the railway bridge, which - of course -
is forbidden, but it made me feel like a kid again, which was kind of
nice, and I even caught a little fishy! About 25 cm long, but I
ate it anyway - 3 or 4 bites worth, but the satisfaction of knowing I
caught my own appetizer! The municipal campground was free, and
well maintained. The day before I'd ridden over the Connors
Range, which was an incredibly steep, but paved, hop over the top,
which I found barely "pushable", let alone rideabe.
From there
on, down the other side, I was to follow "the old telegraph line", but
this turned into one of these orienteering sessions, where the trail
notes make very little sense and I had to depend more on my own common
sense and on my compass. The telegraph line then followed an old
wagon trail, wich was unbelievably rocky and steep and I could hardly
walk my bike and BOB down the track. Under these conditions BOB
behaves rather poorly, wanting to overtake me and take the lead, which
I find very uncomfortable and annoying. So I have to keep setting
him straight and make him tow the line - my line.
I can report that my gear - other
than BOB's occasional sputtering - has behaved quite well. Only
about 7 flats so far (unbelievable I find this myself!) and only one
spoke which had to be replaced. In Marlborough I picked up my
third care package, which contained two new tires, more chain lube and
more water treatment stuff (chlorine dioxide). In the last week
we've been getting some rain, occasional downpours, and this has its
good and its bad sides.
The bad is that what looks like beautiful
smooth track or road can turn into instant snot, a mud so thick and
sticky that within seconds you come to a complete standstill, no moving
forward nor backward. Scrape mud off the three tires, take ONE
step, scrape mud, take one more step, repeat, ad infinitum. The
gravel roads are okay, but some of the sandy, clay station roads and
tracks can be quite awful. Luckily, on the worst section where I
got stuck this way, a "ute" appeared as if by magic, with two blokes
filling cattle feed troughs. They gave me lift out of the muddy
area and dropped me off at a junction with a gravel road. On the
good side: I've come across various creeks and rivers with running
water! It may be muddy, but you can hear the water flowing - it's
magic!! Some delightful campsites were the immediate results, and
at one of them a few days ago, along the Fitzroy River, I met a couple
from Rockhampton - Jason and Katrina - who invited me to stay at their
place for a couple of days. Rocky is not on the trail, but I
wanted to go there anyway, to stock up on a few items that are
generally hard or impossible to get in the smaller communities.
And also, I was
ready for a few days off. Actually, the last
couple of days I spent in Boyne Island, not far from Gladstone, with a
young couple from The Netherlands - Otto and Immelie, who know my
parents through theirs. A few days of sun and sea - boys, was I
ready for this! Also spent an afternoon at Yeppoon with the Rocky
couple the day before.
I have now ridden over 1500 km
officially, and just over 2000 actually. There is always more kms
to cover because of detours, wrong turns, in-town riding, and that kind
of thing. The previous sections have been a little boring at
times, because it's been so much of the same - dry barren country, dry
woods, dry rivers and creeks, cattle country all the while, and mostly
following little used country roads. There is extremely little
traffic on these roads though, many days I see no one at all. I
am just starting Guidebook #4 and I think that from here on the terrain
will become more interesting, more hilly, more views, perhaps -
especially after the recent rains - a little greener? On that I
will report in another few weeks' time, when I get to another community
with available internet access.
So, hooroo Mates, catch ya later!
Rob 'n BOB