Rob 'n BOB on the BNT
Yamba,
NSW - 11 February 2004
G'day Mates!
I'm reporting to you from Yamba, NSW,
where I'm enjoying a little "ocean break", a much needed rest from
being on the bike and with BOB. My last report was from
Stanthorpe, where I did my wine tour with Granite Highland Maxi
Tours. Allan, the owner, was a great tour guide, very well
informed, and in between stops he filled me in on all kinds of
historical information about the area. I didn't mention in my
previous report that the wine industry in Queensland, in general, is
quite young and also around Stanthorpe most of the wineries have only
been around for the past 10 to 15 or so years, similar to the situation
back home in the Okanagan. Even the climate seems very similar,
with the same sort of winter night temperatures, except that it warms
up more during the days.
After my detour
to Stanthorpe I
connected to the trail where I left off and continued, immediately to
do a short 15 km detour again, this time to Bald Rock National
Park. Bald Rock is the second largest monolith in Australia,
after Uluru (Ayers Rock). It isn't anywhere near as
big, but
quite impressive nevertheless, and even though Gwen and I were there in
1998, I just wanted to see and exp
erience it
again. I wasn't
disappointed, the rock formations are just
awesome. On top of the
rock my mobile even had a signal and I was able to call Gwen at home,
but it washed in and out and we weren't really able to talk.
After Bald Rock back to the trail and I was looking
forward to my
first stay in an old hut, only to find the hut pretty well permanently
occupied. But the owners of the hut live not far away, and they
offered me accommodation in one of the spare caravans on their
property, which was a welcome change to my tent, since it poured again
that night! 
Consequently,
when two days later I tried to cross
the Timbarra River at the one and only causeway, I couldn't because the
flow of water was much too strong. I could have waited a couple
of days (hoping it wouldn't rain again), but I decided to detour back
to Tenterfield and follow an alternate route, to hook up with the BNT
again in Glen Elgin. The detour went through the upper, higher,
parts of Washpool National Park instead
of the valley, and the forest
that I came through was just gorgeous, with huge fern trees towering
over me. My next camp was at the Mann River Nature Reserve,
another gem of a campsite, and from there to Newton Boyd, where I was
to collect another parcel that I had mailed to myself. This one
consisting of my third set of tires, new lube (desparately needed) and
more food packs, as well as new maps and the next guidebook. Paul
Jones, the trail co-ordinator for this section of trail, works at
"
Broadmeadows" Station on a part
time basis, and the
owners, Louise and
Tom Armitage, welcomed me with open arms. I was assigned to my
very own cabin, have been taking part in their meals, and am made to
feel as if I'm on a fully appointed luxury cruise ship! I've been
helping out with the household chores a little bit, but in the main I
have been able to work on my bike, clean it thoroughly, replace all
tires, check all other parts and pieces, and reorganise my gear.
I've covered almost 4500 kms now (3200 "real" trail ones) and a bit of
maintenance was due. I'm happy to report that all my machinery is
apparently in top condition! With Tom I was able to get a ride to
Grafton, where I took the bus to 
Yamba, where I am
now staying with
"family" for a few days - the sister of the husband of one of Gwen's
nieces. I was ready for a little ocean break, to take in some SSS
(sun, surf and sand), and Lisa and Alan live in a subdivision of Yamba
overlooking an arm of the Clarence River, only a few kilometers away
from numerous marvellous beaches. Oh, life is tough!
As much as I wanted to follow the
trail as it has been designed, I have now decided to do some
serious
detours. During the past few weeks I've grown increasingly tense
about the sections of trail that are upcoming. From Newton Boyd
the trail follows the Boyd and Guy Fawkes rivers through very remote,
but gorgeously beautiful country. However, it entails having to
cross these rivers some 60 times, and I just don't feel up to it!
My back has improved enormously, and I don't want to bugger it
again. At first I wasn't sure why I was getting so tense over the
past few weeks, and initially blamed on too much bike-time, too much
rain (which certainly played a part), too many steep hills, you name
it. But having to deal with these river sections was constantly
on my mind, and once I decided to bypass them altogether I've been
feeling much better! My time off the bike for a week has
definitely helped as well. The recent rains, and the almost
constant threat of more rain, has resulted in higher water levels, and
some of the river crossings could actually be very tricky, and since
I'm travelling by myself I shouldn't be taking any unnecessary
risks. After Guy Fawkes National Park the trail climbs steeply
back onto the range, to plunge into the next river section only a day
later - Georges Creek (30+ crossings), Macleay River (about 10), and
Kunderang Brook (numerous). This section I've done in 1998 and it
is incredibe, but other than the fact that it would have been
interesting to find out if travelling with BOB now makes it easier or
more difficult compared to panniers, all those river and creek
crossings are just too much of a hassle. Pretty well every
crossing means I'd have to unhitch the trailer, and first carry the
bike, then go back to fetch BOB, and for the waist deep crossings
perhaps even divide BOB into two separate, lighter loads.
Naw..........................! So, now my route will
take me from Newton Boyd through Chaelundi State Forest to Ebor, then
I'll detour via Armadale and Walcha to Nowendoc, where I'll latch onto
the trail once again. From there the route goes through
Barrington Tops National Park to Aberdeen, and soon after that I'll be
in wine country again, the Upper Hunter Valley. Now, that's more
like it!
So Mates, in a much better mood
again, I'm signing off. Catch ya later!
R 'n B
