Rev.1

The following describes the steps to dismantle and relube a Kiev mount Jupiter-9 lens.

Get one of these handy rubber mats that are intended for use in the kitchen for aiding in twisting off stubborn jam jar lids. This makes the initial start to undoing the threaded lens block just so much easier.

Grab a hold of the nose of the lens and unthread the inner lens block assembly.

Unthread the assembly all the way and remove as a unit. Make note of the spacer shim used to set the proper lens offset. When it is time to play around with setting the working distance of the lens this shim will be increased or decreased as needed.

Set the lens on infinity.

Undo the 3 set screws around the focus ring collar and slide the focus ring collar off.

With the lens still set a infinity, scribe a little mark adjacent to the infinity mark. This will serve as a reference mark to aid in re-assembly.

Loosen the 6 set screws around the collar of the lens bayonet base assembly.

Slide the whole lens bayonet base away from the lens assembly.

Have a look inside of the lens bayonet base at all the dried gummed up old grease. Yuck!

Loosen the 6 set screws around the focus scale cylinder.

Slide the focus scale cylinder down to remove.

Slide the focus coupling off.

Pull the retaining ring and the coil spring off.

Remove the stop screw.

Remove the two screws that are part of the helix sliders.

Slide off the outer helical collar revealing the helix sliders as highlighted by Yellow Arrow.

Clean all the dry gummed up grease. I use Lacquer Thinner as my solvent of choice to cut through the old dry grease. Note on outer helical collar there are two grooves with a felt fabric in them. Re-grease this part.

I find this grease to be good for such uses. It will not creep or flow. I did this test several months ago where I placed a dollop of grease on a sheet of glass and left it. Here are the results. No slumping or running of the grease. There are several special dampened helical greases available if that is to your preference.

Re-grease the helix slots and slide the outer helical collar on to start it. Do not slide it up too far as you need some space to insert the helix sliders.

Here is a close-up of the helix sliders to understand just how they go together.

Insert the helix sliders into place. Note how the slotted face of the threaded portion of the slider is facing inward such that you may insert a screwdriver from the inside through the hole to secure it.

Position the helix sliders over their respective service holes and align the outer helical collar so that the pin corresponds to the end of travel on the slot, which is infinity. It is a bit hard to see the pin in this image as I've slobbered grease all over it. Slide the outer helical collar up all the way and insert the two screws to fasten the helix sliders.

Re-grease the inner face of the focus coupling. Do this before the next step. You'll see why.

Using you fingers, expand the coil spring to fit over the helix assembly.

Don't forget the retaining ring goes on last.

While holding the coil spring in place grease up the surface.

Now you can add the focus coupling and add a small bit of grease to allow the coil spring to slide freely. The focus scale cylinder goes back into place and everything from this point re-assembles, just reversing the disassembly steps.

Lastly, add some grease to this surface so that the focus coupling slides freely. Your Jupiter-9 should now rotate smoothly as ever before. Now that you have this done you may proceed to: Checking Lens Working Distance to finish off.

I have not shown the disassembly of the lens block and aperture selector as this particular lens was silky smooth and clean. You'll have to wait for me to acquire another Jupiter-9 that may need for me to get right inside.

January 01, 2008