Is all your darkness spilling out? You may need
to revitalize the light seals and do some upgrades to ensure you
have a light proof enclosure that will hold all the darkness inside.
There are a series of black paper baffles which over time may have
been displaced or have creased and are ineffective. As well, the Yak
hair yarn use against the body is probably not doing a very good job
Depending on which year Kiev you have there may
be subtle different applications of light baffles. The main top
casting will have to come off to reveal the following. See: The
Basics - Top Casting Removal. Again,
depending on year you may find a paper baffle shown by Yellow Arrow.
Note the little bit of Yak hair yarn just below the viewfinder
window indicated by Blue Arrow.
I usually replace this small paper baffle with
something a little more substantial. Black paper or plastic bag
material from photographic paper is useful for this application. I
glue it down or use tape along the edge to make sure it seals.
To replace the light baffle inside the
rangefinder window you must remove the rangefinder glass. Remove the
four screws indicated by Yellow Arrows. To get to the one screw on
the right side lift off the exposure indicator gear circled in Red.
To get access to the rangefinder window baffle
you can sneak the rangefinder glass out as shown above.
The rangefinder window light baffle is shown
above with a few assemblies moved out of the way to make it clear.
Check the condition of this paper baffle, it may need
Here's a couple views to show the black plastic
material I use. It is cut a little larger than the original paper
and has a couple folds and cuts to help it lay down against adjacent
Other areas to have a look at, does anything
interfere with the back film plane casting from seating down flush
against the camera body casting? Here we see the shutter delay
timing assembly interfering enough to cause a gap. By the way, how
flush is the surface of the back film plane casting and the mating
camera body casting surfaces? If I at the very least sand the back
film plane casting with 400 grit sand paper on a smooth glass
surface. If I have the shutter removed, I do the same to the mating
camera body casting surface as well. Note, that if you do anything
to these surfaces you are changing the film plane to lens flange
distance and will have to be adjusted.
This area is always a problem and is the number
one place for light to show on your negative radiating from the sprocket on your
Remove the film plane back casting and check,
there is a thin flat metal washer acting as a light baffle as shown,
and depending on year there may be an extra light baffle bent into a
funky stepped shape just behind that. These may be bent and probably
need some extra help.
To augment the feeble light baffle at this
location add a piece of closed cell foam as show by Red Arrow. As
well, depending on the gap size between the shutter assembly and the
body casting you may need some light sealing as indicated by Yellow
Arrow as well.
The original Yak hair twine that was used for a
light seal at the location shown by Yellow Line was an interesting
application but it probably is the main source of light leaks. We
can do better with modern materials that perform better.
I replace the light seals with more modern synthetic materials.
This urethane foam made by Rogers Corporation under the Poron
product name has an adhesive back and comes in many thicknesses,
densities and cell structures. The top-most one I find most
appropriate for replacing light seals. Samples may be acquired from
Rogers that will last a lifetime.
More information on Poron
Urethane Foam can be found on Rogers Corporation web site.
June 05, 2006