the take-up spool assembly. Not much to it. The gear engages the
advance gear train and the spring on the shaft is the business end
of things that drives the fork. The pronged fork slips on the shaft between the spring
and the washer/screw on the end of the shaft.
at the winding knob working our way down, #1 There is a gear under
where the winding knob attaches, trust me it's really there. #2 and
#3 idler gears. #4 gear is on a shaft #5 which has a pin that
engages through to the
the assembly over and we see shaft #5 sticking through with gear #6
attached to the same shaft. This engages #7 gear which actually is
the brake which prevents the reversal of direction of winding. You
can't really see it but there is a couple of tabs #7a which rotates
freely when the winding direction is the right way but when you try
to reverse one of the tabs jams between the gear teeth. Kind of
barbaric but it works. Gear #7 then mates with the take-up spool
gear head #8 in next image.
the take-up spool gear #8 in position on the casting body.
a side view of the complete assembly in place that offers a
different perspective. Again the same sequential numbering from the
winding knob #1 to through to the take-up fork #8. Don't mind the
tweezers with the washer in this image. I was using this to remind
myself that this washer goes under the brake gear #7.
Pretty simple huh?
Yes, but seemingly complicated when one has issues with spacing
problems of images on a negative. What can go wrong? Referring to
the above image we find a whole lot of gears that have a certain
amount of backlash. Added to this the spring and the washer/screw
tension that allows the pronged fork in the first image at the top
to slip is very critical. What should the proper spring tension or
pronged fork torque slip be? Good question, but it does influence
whether the pronged fork is pulling the film off of the advance
sprocket or the film is being pushed.
June 24, 2007