REQUIRED ITEMS
Although the kit contents are relatively complete, there are
several items the builder is required to purchase. Additionaly
there are probably many small items that the builder will choose
to obtain due to their own preferences or non-standard items.
While I can understand that avionics are a unique choice for each
builder, it would be nice if CHR offered a complete package
option for these plus a reasonably priced package for seats and
dust boots. More importantly, it would have been much more
convenient if ALL the various hardware
items for the engine conversion, basic wiring etc. were included
in the basic kit. A complete finish package including placards
and the required safety items would also be a nice option as
would a package of quality avionics. While US builders have
convenient access to the suppliers and reasonable shipping costs,
each foreign order incurs a large overhead for shipping and
brokerage.
INTERIOR
There are no interior finishing supplies with the kit or
directly available from the factory that I am aware of. The
builder has the choice of just painting the various surfaces
through to installing a full custom leather interior, but
regardless of choice they will require seats of some sort. Other
sources of these materials and expertise are local auto
upholsterers, aircraft fabricators, etc. It would appear to me
that most builders have chosen to go with some kind of covering
on the various sheet surfaces (such as leather, auto trunk
upholstry, carpet) and custom seats (either with the Safari-familiar
suppliers or local fabricators).
It's my understanding that the factory has arrangements with
two different third-party suppliers that they can put a builder
in contact with. I would recommend that if a builder is thinking
of going this route that they contact these suppliers early on,
both due to lead times and also because I believe there are
changes to the amount and style of interior fabrication that must
be performed prior to receiving these interior assemblies.
Update: CHR's website now has some information on the custom
interior package and the price was listed as $7,750 USD before it
was removed (I assume the price has only gone up). While I have
seen the completed version of this package and it is very
impressive, to me this seems like a ridiculous amount of money
for basically the two required seats and a bunch of fancy trim.
Like many other builders, I'm going with a couple of local custom-fabricated
seats and basic items such as control boots and carpets. Most of
the various interior panels will just be left in paint ...
perhaps sometime in the future these panels may be covered but it
doesn't do anything to add to the functionality except perhaps to
cut down on a bit of noise while making it harder to remove the
panels for maintenance.
The following items were required for my kit. Since I have not
seen a packing list from recent kits and these lists are not
available on CHR's website, I don't know if some of these items
are now included in the basic kit.
ENGINE & Related
The factory does have optional engine packages available for
purchase. Since they did not offer a 360 engine when I purchased
my kit, I chose to use a pre-assembled XP-360 and required the
following items before actual installation:
- alternator with mounting brackets and belt
- 10 Amp circuit breaker and switch for LASARŽ ignition
- qty. 2 : MS25041-2 Press-to-test indicators (LASARŽ and
alternator) ... just regular indicator lamps would also
have worked fine
- 8 conical bushings P/N 71032 (Note that one may want to
get some extras for their engine stand)
- 4 bushing washers P/N STD619 (one might be able to use
the much cheaper AN970-8 washers but they are thinner and
larger diameter)
- various gaskets
- fuel pump cap plate
- replacement MS35333 lock washers (-40 and -41)
- qty. 4(or 5) : AN363-420 (or
1/4-20 plated nuts and lock washers) for the divider
baffle
- qty. 2 : dual ignition wire
baffle seals - Lycoming part # LW-M-2375
- qty. 2 (or 10 if changing all) : AN4-6 (one AN960-416
& one -416L washer) or AN4-7 (three -416 washers) or
equivalent 1/4-20 bolts due to studs in original oil sump
- qty. 2 : AN4-10 (one AN960-416 & one -416L washer) or equivalent 1/4-20 bolts for
sump plate / manifold
- qty. 4 : 1/4-20 x 1/2" (possibly x 3/4") bolts to hold the shroud baffles
to the crankcase
- qty. 3 : AN4-? bolts to hold the shroud to the accessory
case
- qty. 7 : AN970-4 washers for under the shroud to case
bolts
- qty. 4 : 1/4" washers with safety wire hole for the
head drain-down plugs (I used NAS513-4 washers)
- qty. 4 : 1/4-20 x 5/8" (or possibly 1/2") bolts
(either drilled head or with lock washers) to hold the
air inlet to the carburetor
- qty. 8 : AN960-516L washers for the carburetor mounting
bolts (possibly might require four AN5-12 bolts and four
extra AN960-516 washers)
- ~4" x 4" piece of .080"+ aluminum to make
the carb intake adapter (.063" might work, but I
feel it's a bit thin)
- Electrical grounding strap to run from engine to frame (could possibly be fabricated
from any extra 2 gauge wire in the kit)
- Weatherstripping material to go between the oil cooler
duct and the oil cooler. In my case, the gap was about 1/4"+
and the ideal material would be 3/8" thick x 1/2"
wide of the medium density type with adhesive backing.
- Essex Primer and related tubing and fittings [optional]
- qty. 3 : 3/8" x 2"+ course thread jacking bolts
[ only clutch drums with interference fits ]
- qty. 10 : AN3H-10A bolts to hold the fuel probes in place
and allow for safety wire (replaces the non-locking
supplied bolts)
Update: Newer kits might have
drilled head bolts supplied with the probes
- [optional] Stainless clamps for holding oil and fuel
lines. My kit came mostly with size 10 clamps which I
felt are overly large for most of the oil and fuel lines
plus various narrow clamps which I wasn't happy with. I
chose to obtain smaller replacement clamps for most of
these; Aero-Seal QS200-06H on the 3/8" lines and QS200-08H
on most of the 1/2"+ lines.
- Optional if choosing to move the oil pressure sensor off
the accessory housing:
- qty. 2 : AN816-4D fittings
- qty. 1 : AN910-1D fitting
- qty. 2 : Aeroquip 491-4 fittings
- 1 foot Aeroquip 303-4 hose (actually 6"-8"
used)
- Aeroquip 491-4 mandrel for hose assembly
- qty. 1 : WDG16 clamp
- qty. 1 : WDG12 clamp + bolt + nut + washer
AVIONICS and WIRING
While all of the required instruments and sensors for VFR
flight are provided, there was no radio equipment or support
supplies in my kit. Even if one doesn't technically require a
radio, as a minimum they should use headset[s] if they want to
retain any of their hearing. Since I plan to fly within
controlled airspace, the following avionics related items were
required to be purchased separately:
- Aircraft 760 channel COM transceiver
- Transponder and encoder
- ELT
- Antennas; COM, transponder and ELT
- coax cable and BNC connectors; I'm using RG400 with
Amphenol 31-2 connectors
- Fuses, breakers and/or breaker switches as appropriate
- smaller gauge hookup wire and shielded cable
- Intercom; not absolutely required, but VOX is much easier
than PTT switches
- microphone and headset jacks: 2 helicopter style plus
mounting "box"
- possibly an ANR headset panel power supply module and
jack
- MS24693C26 stainless screws, washers and elastic stop
nuts if using rail mounted racks (4 for each rack and 6
if using a rear support)
- [optional] cooling fan if using several racks tightly
spaced
Due to the climate I plan to operate in, I have also chosen to
install an external power plug along with an indicator, switch
and over-voltage protection as illustrated here.
I also managed to find a good set of 20' 4 gauge booster cables
on sale at the local automotive store and I've cut the clamps off
of one end and replaced them with a Piper type power plug. In
addition to the booster cable function, one could use this
combination during wiring checkout without having to obtain and
install the life-limited main battery.
- Cole Hersee Piper type socket
- [optional] Cole Hersee Piper type plug if making personal
booster bables
- Crowbar Over-Voltage Module - Aeroelectric
P/N OVM-14
- Master relay
- 5 Amp Switch / breaker
- MS25041-10 Press-to-test indicator
- 1N5404 Diode
- Possibly extra 2 gauge wire (~2˝')
depending on useage of the wire provided in the
kit (7' in my kit). The wire in my kit would have just
been enough for the starter and ground power (about 4"
extra) but it should be noted that I have a non-standard
solenoid board. Also, I'm not sure how much wire is
provided in the new kits with the battery under the floor
board.
I haven't determined if it's needed yet, but I will be
checking the intensity of the various panel lamps and then
determining whether some kind of a light dimming system(s) is/are
required.
Additional general wiring items that will be required are:
- A 7.5 Amp or higher breaker to replace the supplied but
undersized 5 Amp breaker for the navigation lights.
- Grommets for the battery cables to go through the battery
box (I used AN931-6-10 grommets)
- qty. 2 : AN507-632R6 Screws, washers and locknuts for the
side navigation lamps
- qty. 4 : AN526-632R8 Screws, washers and locknuts for the
side navigation lamps
- qty. 2 ea. : AN365-440A stop nuts and AN960-4 washers for
the tail lamp (only regular nuts and no washers provided)
- qty. 2 : 4-40 x ~1/2"+ screws, washers & nuts
for mounting the low alarm horn
- qty. 2 : 6-32 x ~3/4"+ screws, washers & nuts
for mounting the high alarm horn
- heatshrink tubing of various sizes (especially 3/32")
for any soldered joints such as the indicator lamps
- Lacing cord and/or small tie-wraps
- wire labeling supplies
- qty. 2 : 1N540* (*=4 through 8) Diodes for solenoid
protection (recommended but not required)
- various smaller gauges of hookup wire (easier to use for
such things as instrument lamps)
- Red PIDG terminals if using 18-22 gauge wire
- [optional] qty. 2 : Red 1/4" Faston connectors for
the Hobbs if one doesn't want to use the supplied PVC
pigtails
- qty. 3 : Red 1/4" Faston connectors for the oil
pressure switch
- various gauges of shielded wire (N.B. alternator and
strobe)
- Wedge-style adel clamps instead of the standard-style
provided (recommended but not required)
MISCELLANEOUS
- Number 1 on this list has to be a replacement for the CHR-supplied
collective trim spring assembly as I strongly feel that
the supplied system is UNSAFE.
- I haven't kept track of them individually, but I used a lot
of AN4 bolts of different lengths than were supplied in
the kit (both for a specific purpose and in the "bonus
pack"). A good example is the pillow blocks where
only four of the supplied twelve bolts were appropriate
length. Luckily I have very convenient access to these
from my hangar mates but it could prove to be difficult
for a builder in a remote area. I've also chosen to use
AN174 close tolerance bolts in many of the critical areas
where the holes were pre-drilled at the factory with a 1/4"
drill rather than a "D" drill and/or reamed.
- If a builder chooses to make the optional seat pans then
a fair amount of extra sheet metal will be required. I
chose to make both these and the floorboard storage bins
from .025" aluminum. In order to make the seat pans
easily removable without tools, I used a total of twelve
DZUS wing-head fasteners (AJ4-30's and S4A-200 springs).
- Bulkhead pass-throughs: There are a fair number of wires
and cables that must go through the rear bulkhead ("firewall")
to get from the cabin area to the engine area. While one
could just use the supplied large grommets, the proper
aviation way is to use some form of fire resistant chafe
and environmnetal seal ... such a device for wires is
available from SafeAir1 but
an even better solution on an airplane includes a 90°
bend. I thought about using large circular connectors
here (i.e. Canon plugs), but there really isn't a need to
have total disconnects. Individual grommets could be used
(lots of them) or a sturdier method is to use "cord
grips". Although not fireproof, relatively cheap
ones are available from McMaster-Carr
... search for part # 69915K (single hole) and part #
7807K (multiple hole).
- qty. 2 : 4-40 x 3/4" bolts, lock washers & nuts
for Bank Indicator; MS35214-18 plus brass washers and
nuts
- [optional] qty. 16 : 6-32 x 3/8" brass pan head
instrument screws (MS35214-25) for the Westach gauges.
The provided screws are of the ferrous countersunk
variety.
- qty. 4 : MS24693-S29 (6-32 x 5/8") bolts, washers
and lock nuts for the pitot tube
- qty. 2 : AN913-1, 1/8 NPT plugs for frame and boom tube-seal
holes
- ~13" (2' with bear paws) of 1/2" x .125 wall
6061-T6 tubing for the skid anti-crush tube
- ~2' of 3/4" x .049 wall tubing for the ground wheel
jacking bar
- [optional] ~5' of 2" x 1" x .125" aluminum
angle (can be cut from 2" x 2") or 1/8"
aluminum plate to make bear paw mounting rails
- Material to make the carb heat flapper, shaft, bearings (I
used bronze flanged bushings p/n FB-14)
and actuator arm / linkage.
- Stainless clamp(s) to hold the carb heat collector to the
exhaust header
- [Optional] Dash control / cable for cabin heat
- [Optional] Extra SCEET flanges for the cabin heat control
box and rib pass-throughs
- [Optional] Parts to make a cabin heat selector valve
including shaft, bearings, etc.
- [Optional] Extra SCEET tubing if installing both cabin
heat plus carb heat systems (I used about 6' extra)
- Various longer AN470AD universal head rivets. While the
provided rivets are the correct size for most of their
useage, longer ones are required in some areas such as
riveting the console channel to the floorboard (1/8"
angle to 1/8" plate)
- [Optional] AN426AD countersunk head rivets. There are
certain areas, such as on the panel, headboard and seats
where, countersunk rivets provide a much cleaner effect.
Of course, this also means that one requires dimple dies
and/or a countersink. The supplied 3-3 rivets for
nutplates are not long enough for the 1/8" stock in
the instrument panel and longer ones will be required.
- [Optional] I found a few places where it was extremely
difficult to put in solid rivets and resorted to using
pulled rivets. In particular, there were a couple of
nutplates where I used Cherry CCC-32 rivets (3/32" x
1/8" max grip flush head). A dozen or two of these
will come in handy as did a few CCC-42's (1/8" x 1/8"
grip flush head) and CCP-42's (protruding head).
- My kit came with only AN526C-832R12 machine screws to go
into the nutplates and hold the various panels together.
These are 3/4" long and much longer than required in
most cases. While they may provide extra back-out
protection, they're just extra weight, are really
difficult with tight nutplates and interfere in areas
like the switch panel. I obtained some *R6 (3/8")
and *R8 (1/2)" screws that are used in most places
... primarily the *R8's.
- [Optional] There are several of the screws holding the
removeable firewall in place that serve double duty to
hold adel clamps for the fuel lines and transmission fill/vent
lines. Ideally these should be upgraded to 3/16"
screws and nutplates.
- My kit contained a variety of adel (cushion) clamps that
are used to hold various items in place. All of these
were of the non-wedge style but I feel the wedge style
provide a better grip and should definitely be used on
wiring bundles so they can't pinch the wires or create a
chafe point. The kit also supplied AN3-4 bolts and castle
nuts / cotter pins to afix these clamps which just add
extra weight and difficulty in installation / adjustment.
I much prefer to use MS21042 all metal stop nuts and AN3-*A
non-drilled bolts or screws.
- Lead for the ballast weight - Actual amount is unique to
each craft but one place in the manuals refers to 14
pounds.
- [Optional] 1" plus 1-1/4" of 2-1/4" x .120
wall tubing for third ballast weight mount
- Extra molding to place around the front and rear edges of
the cabin where it contacts the bubble. My kit came with
only 9' of a heavy 1/16" thick molding whereas the
front requires ~7' and the rear requires ~5'. I chose to
replace the heavy molding with 1/32" thick material
front and rear.
- [Optional] 3' of MS2001P hinge - Both myself and other
builders have felt that there is too much play in the CHR-supplied
rolled hinge strip for the seat support. The extruded
hinge stock has a much tighter tolerance and very little
play.
- "Rubber" like material or boots to make the
seals for the control rod[s] where they pass through the
firewall.
- qty. 12 - Split pins for pinning the pillow blocks into
position. I used eight 1/8" x 1/2" stainless
ones (McMaster part # 93740A209) as these were very
kindly provided to me by another builder and required
four 5/8" long ones as well.
- qty. 4 - Stainless split lock washers (allen head cap
screw lock washers in CHR parlance) to provide extra
clearance for the tail rotor push/pull cable rodends.
- [optional] I chose to replace the supplied DG6 clamps for
the tail rotor cable with DG5 clamps and used a lot more
than the two that were included in the Control Kit.
- Blade Tape - With the use of composite main blades, it is
recommended that blade tape is used to prevent erosion.
However, none is supplied either in the kit or with the
main blades.
- Material to make the door latches
and handles. I used 1/8" x 3/4" 6061-T6 that I
obtained locally. I also needed a bit more of the
material used to make the hinges and handle / latch
plates. This was for the hinge clamp plates on the inside
of the LEXANŽ and I used 3/16" x 1" 6061-T6
rather than 1/4" thick material as supplied with the
kit.
OPTIONAL SHOP MATERIALS
For many builders it is impossible to build
without making a few custom enhancements. This usually takes
extra material and I'd suggest that the builder have a bit of 1/16"
and 1/8" 4130 plate steel available. Aluminum angle is
always handy for making brackets and I keep some 1" x .063"
around ... it can be trimmed to size and is much easier to use
than custom bending a 90° bend every time one makes a bracket. I
also used .080" aluminum for my instrument panel and a few
other pieces (.090" would have worked just as well).
PAINT / FINISHING
The amount and type of painting supplies will be very
dependant upon both what type of product one is using and how
much of this work is contracted out. Even if one contracts the
main painting, they will probably need some supplies such as
Metalprep, Alumiprep, Alodine and primer (for faying surfaces).
The builder should also obtain the MSDS safety sheets for all
the various chemicals used in these processes since many of them
have extensive health warnings.
PLACARDS
Each country has different requirements for placards, but it's
a fair bet that some will probably be required. One has the
choice of going with custom designed placards, simple P-Touch /
Dymo tape or ones that are generally available to amateur
builders. The aircraft suppliers have the standard placards and
that's a simple route to go. I also looked at the catalog for AV/Grafix and they seem to
have just about anything that the builder might want.
One of the key items required before certification is an
engraved stainless steel data plate. Although these are available
from the various aircraft suppliers, they are generally the older
style that have a lot of unnecessary fields. A much simpler one
is the EAA Data Plate which has only the three required fields.
For those that like to do mail order of these kinds of items, I
noticed that Aircraft
Engravers has both the plates and will engrave them.
SAFETY ITEMS
Canadian aircraft are required to carry both a fire
extinguisher and a first aid kit. For certain flights, there is
also a requirement to carry survival gear that is appropriate to
the season and location.
SUPPLIERS
Although I'm sure most builders have come up with their own
favourite list of supplies, I thought I'd include links some of
the suppliers that I've used or would consider using. All of
these companies do mail-order.
General Aircraft Supplies
Avionics, Wiring Harnesses and Electrical Supplies
Electronic and Electrical Supplies (small volume mail order)
Aircraft Tools
Metals
Specialty Hardware
General Hardware
- McMaster-Carr -
unfortunately they no longer ship in small quantities to
Canada
Unique items that may be of interest to builders
When all else fails, I found that a trip to the local
automotive speed shop can turn up some interesting items. On my
last trip there I found that MSD #8825 bushings appear to be
exactly the same as the vibration isolators supplied for the
instrument panel. Autotechnica has a line of electrical items
that include guarded toggle switches in various colours. Most
importantly, I found they had a great selection of Aeroquip hoses and fittings
like the most common AN series ... unfortunately they didn't
carry the fittings I was looking for.
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Last updated: August 01, 2009