'The Columbia Ice Fields'

Alpine Ice With Yamnuska!

Course Details

DATES - PRICE - OUR APPROACH - LOCATION
CURRICULUM - AGENDA - INSTRUCTORS & GROUP SIZE
DIFFICULTY, FITNESS & EXPERIENCE
TRANSPORTATION - ACCOMMODATION & MEALS
GEAR - INSURANCE - BOOKING

In the predawn light you can just make out the huge bulk of the peak above silhouetted by the light of the the full moon. There's a tangible feeling of tension and anticipation within the group as you climb higher and higher on the glacier, crampons crunching in the frozen snow. Lit by the dawn's pink hues the climb looks at its most challenging. Yet as you cross the bergshrund, ice tools biting firmly, your adrenalin kicks in and an overpowering sense of exhilaration overwhelms you as you and your partners forge on, towards the summit. This is alpine ice, fast moving, demanding and absolutely unforgettable.

The great peaks of the Columbia Icefields rise abruptly next to the Banff-Jasper Parkway with the thick mantle of the upper Icefields lapping their shoulders. Heavy glaciation means alpine ice climbing, not only for the experts challenging famous route such as the 'Andromeda Strain' but also for those of us wishing to learn and to experience for the first time the visceral excitement that alpine ice provides. The icy peak of Athabasca is a great classroom and its famous North Face a great finale for this program.

Dates

2000 Dates: July 10 - 15, July 17 - 22, July 24 - 29, August 21 - 26, August 28 - Sept 2

Price

$1375 CDN (c.$935US) includes sales tax, instruction, guides and use of technical climbing gear. Because we are based from the highway and several options are available, meals and accommodation are not included in this price. However, for an extra $235 we can arrange a food and camping package. Cancellation insurance is recommended. This must be purchased on booking and is $69 ... the choice is yours.

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Our Approach: Instruction and Guiding

Many of the Rockies' best ice routes are found in this area and this week's objective is to introduce you to these climbs whilst working with you on alpine ice skills.

The climbs are long and can take up to 14 hours return, elevation gain is typically around 1450m or 4,800ft. As it's really hard to do consecutive climbs we have found that the best approach is to alternate climbing days with much easier instructional days. On the instructional days we cover topics specific to alpine ice climbing. If time permits we may be able to review general mountaineering topics with you.

Teaching on the 'instructional' days will be based on explanation and demonstration of techniques followed by ample opportunity to practice. These techniques will then be used on the climbing days.

On the climbing days our instructional approach changes to one of "mentorship". This is where you learn by climbing with an expert who will impart his or her knowledge to you during the progress of the climb. This includes not only techniques but also the mental approach and the drive and judgment that fuel the successful mountaineer.

For safety and enjoyment, guide:guest ratios on climbing days start at 1:3 then drop to 1:2.

Location

The course is based at the Columbia Icefields on the border of Banff and Jasper National Parks, 300km northwest of Canmore. Access is easy and no days are spent on approach as the glaciers and peaks are immediately adjacent to the highway. This allows us to stay at local roadside campgrounds, hostels or hotels. On occasion, the final couple of days may be spent attempting some of the North Face routes near Lake Louise.

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Curriculum

There is considerable flexibility built into the delivery of this program. Snow and weather conditions will dictate the order of presentation to some degree. It is planned that three of the course days will be climbing days where techniques learnt will be used during the ascent of actual snow and ice routes. Commonly climbed routes include A2 Athabasca by 'Standard', 'Silverhorn' and North Face routes. Other routes climbed less frequently include Andromeda by the 'Skyladder' North Face and East Ridge the North Face of Mt. Fay and Mt. Lefroy. It must be emphasized that participants will not be taken on climbs for which the instructors do not consider them ready or where conditions present undue hazard.

Columbia Ice Fields

Core Topics include:

Ice Climbing Skills: - Crampon use (flat point, front point, combined).

- Use of Ice Tools.

- Movement techniques on low, moderate & steep ice.

Belaying on Ice: - Placing ice screws. - Anchor construction.

- Placing protection.

Belaying Skills: - Belay devices and techniques.

- Belay techniques for three-man ropes.

Hazard Evaluation & Route Selection:

- Cornices, Seracs, Avalanche, Rock Fall, Bergshrunds.

The following topics may be reviewed if time and conditions permit:

Glacier Safety: - Glacier Morphology - Choosing a Safe Route

- Rope Use for Glaciers - Crevasse Rescue Navigation: - Map and Compass Use - Whiteout Procedures

- Route Planning

Accident and Emergency Procedures

Columbia Ice Fields

Course Agenda

Day 1: Meet at 9.30am at Columbia Icefields, check equipment then head out to review mountaineering techniques and commence ice instruction.

Day 2: Climb 'Ice Apron' route on A2 (10 hours).

Day 3: Instructional day.

Day 4: Depending entirely upon participant abilities, weather and conditions, a variety of climbs will be attempted. Typically these may include Athabasca (3472m) by both Silverhorn and North Face route and Andromeda (3500m) by the North Face or "Skyladder" routes. Expect to be out for up to 14 hours.

Day 5: Final instruction day.

Day 6: Final climbing day, up to 14 hours on climb. Course finishes late afternoon.

Columbia Ice Fields

Weather Note

Like any alpine region, this area is subject to extreme weather conditions. On days where high climbs are not possible we will try to arrange instruction sessions. Sometimes we just have to hunker down and wait for the storm to pass.

Instructors and Group Size

Guide ratios will vary depending on the specific climb or activity. It will range from 1:3 down to 1:2 for the last two climbs. Our personnel are qualified guides and assistant guides and are licensed to operate in the area by Parks Canada. The maximum group size is 12.

How difficult is it? How fit and experienced need you be?

Participants need prior mountaineering experience. In the context of the Yamnuska program this would be a minimum of 'Intro To Mountaineering' or a combination of 'Snow and Ice Long Weekend' and 'Advanced' or 'Complete Waterfall Ice'. Participants must be in really good physical shape as this is a very demanding and arduous program. Climbs are long and need stamina. We cannot guarantee to cater for those unable to handle this.

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Transportation

It is necessary to drive short distances between accommodations and climbing areas. Transport is not included but for those needing it during the week we will be pleased to assist by setting up a car pool or, if this is not possible, by arranging group transportation.

The Columbia Icefields are located halfway between Banff and Jasper and can be reached by daily bus services. Let us know if you need a hand setting this up.

Accommodation and Meals

Meals and accommodation are not included in the basic price. If you would like us to organize this we will do so for a charge of $235 to cover group camping gear and camp fees at the Icefields Campground and meals from lunch on Day 1 to lunch on Day 6. These meals will be prepared collectively and your assistance with this is expected. Otherwise you can make your own arrangements to stay at the Icefields Campground (where the guides will be staying), at the nearby Hilda Creek Hostel (has kitchen facilities) or at the Icefields Chalet (hotel with restaurant). We will send you more information about these options when you book.

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Equipment and Clothing

When you book we will send you a complete list of the gear and clothing you will need to bring. We recommend that you bring stiff-soled mountaineering boots. We can loan you special equipment (eg. crampons, ice axes, helmets and harnesses), this must be arranged in advance. We have a range of Koflach plastic boots to rent at $45 for the week. Please order these when booking.

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Insurance

There is no charge for rescue so long as you have a valid National Park Entry Pass (obtain on entry to National Park.) It is wise, though to ensure that your health plan will cover you in case of illness or accident whilst here. Obtain extra coverage if necessary.

Booking Information

Please book as early as practical to avoid disappointment. We require a $458CDN deposit with the balance due 8 weeks in advance, after that, full payment is required. To avoid unnecessary cancellation penalties we suggest you take our cancellation insurance for an extra, non-refundable $69, this must accompany your deposit.

For detailed booking instructions and conditions, click here.

Along with all relevant receipts we will send you a full trip logistical kit (containing meeting times, a list of what to bring and info on how to get here), an experience questionnaire and a sample copy of our waiver which we will ask you to sign when you meet us.

Two-Week Program

Combine this with 'Intro to Mountaineering', 'Mount Robson', 'The Bugaboos' or 'Complete Rock' to qualify for a 5% discount.

PLEASE DON'T HESITATE TO CONTACT US IF
YOU NEED TO KNOW MORE ABOUT THIS COURSE!

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