Mount Athabasca

THE ASCENT OF MOUNT ATHABASCA WITH A YAMNUSKA GUIDE

Athabasca is one of the most accessible and enjoyable big peaks in the Canadian Rockies. Routes of varying difficulty make it suitable for both beginner and experienced alpinists. Its position on the edge of the vast Columbia Icefields make for spectacular summit views and its glaciation makes for fine snow and ice mountaineering.

A climb of Athabasca with a certified Yamnuska mountain guide is a great and memorable experience. If you'd like to climb Athabasca with us this prospectus will tell you what its all about. Once decided let us know so that we can confirm arrangements for this terrific adventure.

WHAT IS INVOLVED IN A GUIDED CLIMB OF MOUNT ATHABASCA?

THE PEAK - PRICE - ABOUT HIRING GUIDES - ROUTES - HAZARD - HOW LONG DOES IT TAKE
SEASON - GUIDES - PREREQUISITES - ACCESS - ACCOMODATIONS - INSURANCE - BOOKING

The Peak

Mount Athabasca is located at the eastern edge of the Columbia Icefields on the ridge between the Athabasca and Saskatchewan Glaciers. It is immediately adjacent to the Banff-Jasper Parkway from where it is climbed in a day. This makes it an ideal objective for anyone with limited time, in addition several nearby training sites makes it an ideal finale to a general mountaineering course. It is 3,491m (11,450 ft.) high.

Climbing Routes

There are several good routes on the mountain. All involve alpine starts (as early as 2.00am, commonly 4.00am) from the Parkway with a total elevation gain of 1500m (5,000ft.).

For Beginner And Intermediate Climbers we recommend the following two routes which we often combine to make a traverse of the peak. Both involve travel on crevassed glaciers and on snow and ice slopes of moderate steepness. Our maximum ratio is 4 guests per guide. Guests will need to be familiar with use of ice axe and crampons and with traveling roped on a glacier, this can be taught the day before the climb.

1. The North Glacier route follows the Sunwapta Gl. to the base of the Silverhorn Ridge from where a traverse leads us over to the West Ridge (where it joins the AA Col route) which is followed over the peak of Silverhorn to the summit. This is a beautiful route for beginner alpinists and is often used as a descent for the 'AA' route. Our maximum ratio is 1:4. Return time is between 9 and 12 hours.
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3. The AA Col route follows the glacier on the other side of the peak from the Sunwapta Gl. It leads to the 'col' (alpine pass) between Athabasca and Mt. Andromeda from where the West Ridge is followed over Silverhorn to the summit. Our maximum ratio is 1:4. Return time is between 9 and 12 hours.

For more experienced Intermediate Mountaineers we recommend the Silverhorn Ridge route which ascends the beautiful snow and ice ridge leading from the Sunwapta Gl. to the summit of the Silverhorn (a subsidiary summit just west of the main summit). This involves steeper climbing on snow and ice, sometimes up to 450 in places. It is given a UIAA III+ grade. We can guide up to three people per guide but strongly recommend a ratio of 1:2. Return time is between 9 and 12 hours.

Advanced Climbers will enjoy the classic North Face route. This involves 1800 feet of grade 3 (c.550) ice finishing with an iced-up rock step in a gully. Once again the approach is via the Sunwapta Gl. Our maximum ratio is 1:2. Return time is between 10 and 14 hours.

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Hazard

Athabasca is a large glaciated peak. Potential objective hazards include hidden crevasses, snow and ice avalanches, rockfall and severe weather. The safety record of guided parties is exceptionally good although accidents have happened to private groups. In all mountaineering endeavors there is a potential risk which cannot be eliminated.

How Much Time Do You Need?

If you have the prerequisite experience for your route you will need to be in place at the Columbia Icefields the evening before the climb. You will usually be finished by mid-afternoon of the climbing day. If needing training before the climb we suggest a minimum of one day before the climbing day. If starting from scratch, two days is better. You can pick up the guide in Canmore early (c. 6:30am) on the morning of the training day and still have ample time to drive to the Columbia Icefields and accomplish the necessary training.

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When?

Athabasca can be climbed anytime from mid-May through to early October most years. Whilst it may be possible to climb in less than perfect conditions (our success rate would be around 80%) we must emphasize that bad weather and conditions are possible at any time and consequently we cannot guarantee a summit climb or easy conditions.

Guides

Our guides are certified by the Association of Canadian Mountain Guides (ACMG) and by Parks Canada (Athabasca is on the border between Banff and Jasper National Parks) and we operate within the 'terrain guidelines' of the ACMG. The minimum guide qualification for this peak is the ACMG 'Assistant Alpine Guide'. Our maximum ratios our outlined in the 'Climbing Routes' section.

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How Experienced Need You Be?

There is something for everyone on Athabasca. If you are in good hiking shape it is feasible to attempt Athabasca with just one day of prior training although we do recommend two. The more difficult routes do require additional prior snow and ice experience. We are happy to discuss the program that would best suit you both prior to and when making your booking.

Getting To Athabasca

We climb from the Columbia Icefields Centre which is 2.5 hours drive north west from Canmore past Banff and Lake Louise (4 hours from Calgary Airport). Alternatively it is a 1 hour drive south east from Jasper. To reduce the cost of your climb we suggest you pick up your guide in Canmore on the way. There are daily bus services from Canmore and Jasper (summer only) but it is generally easier to rent a car in Calgary.

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Accomodation and Meals

There are three alternatives in the area. There are two 'drive-in' campgrounds very close by, a youth hostel 5km away and a new hotel near the campgrounds. There is a restaurant at the Hotel but it is not open for breakfasts at the time we start the climb. In most cases climbers camp & either we bring food or they bring their own.

Insurance

There is no charge for rescue so long as you have a valid National Park Entry Pass (obtain on entry to National Park.) It is wise, though to ensure that your health plan will cover you in case of illness or accident whilst here. Obtain extra coverage if necessary.

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How Does Hiring A Guide Work?

Before proceeding we must mention that we run several 3-day 'Snow and Ice Long Weekend' programs each season. These courses include two days of basic instruction followed by a guided attempt on Athabasca. This is the lowest cost option for climbing Athabasca.

If the content or timing of this program does not suit you it is necessary to arrange for a private climb. When hiring a guide you pay guide fee plus expenses. The guide fee is a daily rate which varies according to the number of people per guide. Expenses you will incur include the cost of transportation for yourself and the guide to the area, accommodation fees and meals (for the guide also), a charge for the guide's time should he/she have to locate to the base the evening before. We can also have climbing and camping gear available for rent.

We can customize a package for you that includes guide fees, guide expenses and any extras such as meals, accommodation and rental gear!

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Fixed Costs and Prices

Guide Fees

These prices are based on a few different scenarios you may consider, remember that we can adjust the program to suit your needs! These are total prices (ie. NOT per person).

1. Climb only, pre-position evening before (includes guide positioning time).
   1 guest ... $445 ($300US); 2 guest ... $495 ($335US); 3 guest ... $550 ($375US); 4 guest ... $610 ($415US).
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3. With training day before climb (2 days with guide, no extra positioning charge).
   1 guest ... $700 ($475); 2 guest ... $800 ($540US); 3 guest ... $900 ($610); 4 guest ... $1000 ($675US).
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5. With two training days before climb (3 days with guide).
   1 guest ... $1050 ($710); 2 guest ... $1200 ($810US); 3 guest ... $1350 ($915US); 4 guest ... $1500 ($1015).
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Guide´s Expenses

You are responsible for the cost of the guide's transportation to the area. We suggest you pick the guide up in Canmore on your way to the Columbia Icefields. If the guide has to drive up there to meet you a charge of $65 is applied. You are also responsible for the cost of the guide's accommodation (from $10/night if camping) in the area and for the guide's meals (from $15 for the shortest package, thereafter $25/day).

Other Expenses... A Complete Package!

We are happy to give you a complete package price that in addition to fixed costs can include the accommodation of your choice, meals and rental equipment. This can be quoted to you on request.

These prices are in Canadian Dollars and include sales tax. Often a group will have unique requirements and the package prices will be adjusted accordingly.

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Booking Information

Please book as early as practical to avoid disappointment. We require a one third of full cost deposit with the balance due 8 weeks in advance, after that, full payment is required with booking. To avoid unnecessary cancellation penalties we suggest you take our cancellation insurance which costs 5% of the package cost, this must accompany your deposit. Please read the booking conditions and cancellation penalties carefully before booking.

For detailed booking instructions and conditions, click here.

Along with all relevant receipts we will send you a full trip logistical kit (containing meeting times, a list of what to bring and info on how to get here), an experience questionnaire and a sample copy of our waiver which we will ask you to sign when you meet us.

Please feel free to contact us to discuss this climb.

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How Much Time Do you Need?

The minimum time it will take is three days. One day to fly to Assiniboine Meadows and to climb to the Hind Hut, the next day for the ascent and the final day to descend to the Meadows from where you can fly or walk out. The problem with such a short time is that weather may be bad on your climbing day leaving you with no spare days. We suggest you take a guide for at least four if not five days so as to allow extra time for the ascent. In the event of being able to do the climb on the first available day then there are several other peaks in the area you can climb as well.

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When?

Assiniboine can be climbed anytime June through September but remember that conditions may prevent climbing on the peak at any time in those months. The optimal months are July and August when dry conditions are most likely. In some years heavy spring snows may result in the peak being a snow climb through most of the summer. Summer snowstorms can put the peak 'out of condition' at any time. We must emphasize that bad weather and conditions are possible at any time and consequently we cannot guarantee a summit climb or easy conditions.

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Guides and Guide Ratios?

The lead guide will be an internationally qualified (UIAGM/ACMG) full guide. Other guides will be at least qualified assistant guides (ACMG). It is vastly preferable to have a one-on-one guide ratio. We will take two with one guide on the North Ridge only and then only if your experience makes itappropriate.

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How Experienced Need You Be?

Assiniboine is not a climb for beginners. We require that you have recent alpine mountaineering experience (or extensive multi-pitch rock experience) beforehand and we will require that you complete our experience questionnaire on booking. When making your booking we can advise you as to the feasibility of your attempting this peak.

This is one of the most expensive objectives in the Rockies, there are lots of other great climbs in our region which you can attempt with us at much less expense. If you have any doubts as to the suitability of this objective then it may be wise to take a guide for another climb first.

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Accomodation and Food

The Hind Hut is a basic sheet metal mountain shelter equipped with sleeping platforms and 'foamies', we bring food and a stove. We can help you find accommodation in the region before and after. Afterwards you may like to stay on and enjoy the great hiking in the Assiniboine Meadows area. This is a terrific area to enjoy with family and friends. You can camp or stay at world-famous Mt. Assiniboine Lodge.

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Getting To Canmore

Canmore is the nearest town to the heli and hiking staging points for Assiniboine. It is 100km west of Calgary on the Trans Canada Highway. You can easily fly to Calgary from Europe and anywhere in the 'States and Canada. Bus services will bring you to Canmore or you may prefer to rent a car from Calgary.

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Insurance

Please ensure that you are covered for the cost of evacuation or rescue should you fall ill or be injured. Most health benefit plans (public and private) and some travel insurance policies do cover this. Otherwise, in the unlikely event that you need these services you may be liable for the cost (not astronomical). We can give you further information if necessary.

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Price

The following package costs include guide fees, meals and helicopter flights.

Federal goods and services tax is not included. This is 7% extra for residents of Canada and 3.5% for non residents. Prices are in Canadian Dollars with approx. US$ price in brackets. It is possible to hike out and not use the helicopter, well reduce the price accordingly should youchoose this option.

1. Three Day for one: $1820 (US$1230); for two: $2090 (US$1410) or $1045Cdn. each.
   Friday to Sunday, Wednesday to Friday.
   
2. Four Day for one: $2205 (US$1490); for two: $2500 (US$1690) or $1250Cdn. each.
   Sunday to Wednesday.
   
3. Five Day for one: $2590 (US$1750); for two: $2910 (US$1965) or $1455Cdn. each.
   Wednesday to Sunday.
   

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What If Assiniboine Is Out Of Condition?

Mount Assiniboine is very weather prone and may be completely out of condition at any time in the summer for days or weeks at a time. When this happens it is possible to climb on other peaks in the Rockies that remain in condition (lower rock peaks or snow and ice routes). In the event of Assiniboine being clearly out of condition we will organize an alternate climbing program for you and will use the helicopter fees included in the package to defray any new expenses with the balance being be refunded to you.