THE ASCENT OF
MOUNT ATHABASCA
WITH A YAMNUSKA GUIDE
Athabasca is one of the most accessible and enjoyable big peaks in the Canadian Rockies. Routes of varying difficulty make it suitable for both beginner and experienced alpinists. Its position on the edge of the vast Columbia Icefields make for spectacular summit views and its glaciation makes for fine snow and ice mountaineering.
A climb of Athabasca with a certified Yamnuska mountain guide is a great and memorable experience. If you'd like to climb Athabasca with us this prospectus will tell you what its all about. Once decided let us know so that we can confirm arrangements for this terrific adventure.
WHAT IS INVOLVED IN A GUIDED CLIMB OF MOUNT
ATHABASCA?
ROUTES / HAZARD / HOW LONG DOES IT TAKE /
SEASON / GUIDES / PREREQUISITES / ACCESS /
ACCOMMODATION & MEALS / INSURANCE / BOOKING
THE PEAK
Mount Athabasca is located at the eastern edge of the Columbia Icefields on the ridge
between the Athabasca and Saskatchewan Glaciers. It is immediately adjacent to the
Banff-Jasper Parkway from where it is climbed in a day. This makes it an ideal objective
for anyone with limited time, in addition several nearby training sites makes it an ideal
finale to a general mountaineering course. It is 3,491m (11,450 ft.) high.
CLIMBING ROUTES
There are several good routes on the mountain. All involve alpine starts (as early as
2.00am, commonly 4.00am) from the Parkway with a total elevation gain of 1500m (5,000ft.).
For Beginner And Intermediate Climbers we recommend the following two routes which we often combine to make a traverse of the peak. Both involve travel on crevassed glaciers and on snow and ice slopes of moderate steepness. Our maximum ratio is 4 guests per guide. Guests will need to be familiar with use of ice axe and crampons and with traveling roped on a glacier, this can be taught the day before the climb.
1. The North Glacier route follows the Sunwapta Gl. to the base of the Silverhorn Ridge from where a traverse leads us over to the West Ridge (where it joins the AA Col route) which is followed over the peak of Silverhorn to the summit. This is a beautiful route for beginner alpinists and is often used as a descent for the 'AA' route. Our maximum ratio is 1:4. Return time is between 9 and 12 hours.
2. The AA Col route follows the glacier on the other side of the peak from the Sunwapta Gl. It leads to the 'col' (alpine pass) between Athabasca and Mt. Andromeda from where the West Ridge is followed over Silverhorn to the summit. Our maximum ratio is 1:4. Return time is between 9 and 12 hours.
For more experienced Intermediate Mountaineers we recommend the Silverhorn Ridge route which ascends the beautiful snow and ice ridge leading from the Sunwapta Gl. to the summit of the Silverhorn (a subsidiary summit just west of the main summit). This involves steeper climbing on snow and ice, sometimes up to 450 in places. It is given a UIAA III+ grade. We can guide up to three people per guide but strongly recommend a ratio of 1:2. Return time is between 9 and 12 hours.
Advanced Climbers will enjoy the classic North Face route. This involves 1800 feet of grade 3 (c.550) ice finishing with an iced-up rock step in a gully. Once again the approach is via the Sunwapta Gl. Our maximum ratio is 1:2. Return time is between 10 and 14 hours.
<top of page>HAZARD
Athabasca is a large glaciated peak. Potential objective hazards include hidden crevasses,
snow and ice avalanches, rockfall and severe weather. The safety record of guided parties
is exceptionally good although accidents have happened to private groups. In all
mountaineering endeavors there is a potential risk which cannot be eliminated.
HOW MUCH TIME DO YOU NEED?
If you have the prerequisite experience for your route you will need to be in place at the
Columbia Icefields the evening before the climb. You will usually be finished by
mid-afternoon of the climbing day. If needing training before the climb we suggest a
minimum of one day before the climbing day. If starting from scratch, two days is better.
You can pick up the guide in Canmore early (c. 6:30am) on the morning of the training day
and still have ample time to drive to the Columbia Icefields and accomplish the necessary
training.
WHEN?
Athabasca can be climbed anytime from mid-May through to early October most years. Whilst
it may be possible to climb in less than perfect conditions (our success rate would be
around 80%) we must emphasize that bad weather and conditions are possible at any time and
consequently we cannot guarantee a summit climb or easy conditions.
GUIDES
Our guides are certified by the Association of Canadian Mountain Guides (ACMG) and by
Parks Canada (Athabasca is on the border between Banff and Jasper National Parks) and we
operate within the 'terrain guidelines' of the ACMG. The minimum guide qualification for
this peak is the ACMG 'Assistant Alpine Guide'. Our maximum ratios our outlined in the
'Climbing Routes' section.
HOW EXPERIENCED NEED
YOU BE?
There is something for everyone on Athabasca. If you are in good hiking shape it is
feasible to attempt Athabasca with just one day of prior training although we do recommend
two. The more difficult routes do require additional prior snow and ice experience. We are
happy to discuss the program that would best suit you both prior to and when making your
booking.
There are three alternatives in the area. There are two 'drive-in' campgrounds very close by, a youth hostel 5km away and a new hotel near the campgrounds. There is a restaurant at the Hotel but it is not open for breakfasts at the time we start the climb. In most cases climbers camp & either we bring food or they bring their own.
There is no charge for rescue so long as you have a valid National Park Entry Pass
(obtain on entry to National Park.) It is wise, though to ensure that your health plan
will cover you in case of illness or accident whilst here. Obtain extra coverage if
necessary.
<top of page>
Before proceeding we must mention that we run several 3-day 'Snow and Ice Long Weekend' programs each season. These courses include two days of basic instruction followed by a guided attempt on Athabasca. This is the lowest cost option for climbing Athabasca.
If the content or timing of this program does not suit you it is necessary to arrange for a private climb. When hiring a guide you pay guide fee plus expenses. The guide fee is a daily rate which varies according to the number of people per guide. Expenses you will incur include the cost of transportation for yourself and the guide to the area, accommodation fees and meals (for the guide also), a charge for the guide's time should he/she have to locate to the base the evening before. We can also have climbing and camping gear available for rent.
We can customize a package for you that includes guide fees, guide expenses and any extras such as meals, accommodation and rental gear!
GUIDE FEES
These prices are based on a few different scenarios you may consider, remember that we can
adjust the program to suit your needs! These are total prices (ie. NOT per person).
1. Climb only, pre-position evening before (includes guide positioning time).
1 guest ... $445 ($300US); 2 guest ... $495 ($335US); 3 guest ... $550 ($375US); 4 guest
... $610 ($415US).
2. With training day before climb (2 days with guide, no extra positioning charge).
1 guest ... $700 ($475); 2 guest ... $800 ($540US); 3 guest ... $900 ($610); 4 guest ...
$1000 ($675US).
3. With two training days before climb (3 days with guide).
1 guest ... $1050 ($710); 2 guest ... $1200 ($810US); 3 guest ... $1350 ($915US); 4 guest
... $1500 ($1015).
GUIDE'S EXPENSES
You are responsible for the cost of the guide's transportation to the area. We suggest you
pick the guide up in Canmore on your way to the Columbia Icefields. If the guide has to
drive up there to meet you a charge of $65 is applied. You are also responsible for the
cost of the guide's accommodation (from $10/night if camping) in the area and for the
guide's meals (from $15 for the shortest package, thereafter $25/day).
OTHER EXPENSES...A COMPLETE PACKAGE!
We are happy to give you a complete package price that in addition to fixed costs can include the accommodation of your choice, meals and rental equipment. This can be quoted to you on request.
These prices are in Canadian Dollars and include sales tax. Often a group will have unique requirements and the package prices will be adjusted accordingly.
BOOKING INFORMATION
Please book as early as practical to avoid disappointment. We require a one third of full
cost deposit with the balance due 8 weeks in advance, after that, full payment is required
with booking. To avoid unnecessary cancellation penalties we suggest you take our
cancellation insurance which costs 5% of the package cost, this must accompany your
deposit. Please read the booking conditions and cancellation penalties carefully
before booking.
PLEASE FEEL FREE TO CONTACT US TO DISCUSS THIS CLIMB
Yamnuska Inc. 200, 50 - 103 Bow Valley Trail, Canmore, Alberta, T1W 1N8, Canada T. 403 678 4164