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Mount Logan Expedition Course Details
DATES -
PRICE -
THE CLIMB -
AGENDA
Join us for an attempt on Canada's highest peak, 5959m Mt. Logan. The King Trench, our route of ascent is one of the most
beautiful and spectacular places on the planet. Its remoteness, combined with arctic conditions make Logan one of the least
climbed of the high peaks in North America.INSTRUCTORS & GROUP SIZE - ALTITUDE - WEATHER DIFFICULTY, FITNESS & EXPERIENCE TRANSPORTATION - ACCOMMODATION & MEALS GEAR - FLIGHTS - INSURANCE - BOOKING Dates 2000: May 15 - June 7 Land Cost $5700 CDN (c.$3820US) incl. GST. (ex Whitehorse, Yukon Territory). This includes hotel in Whitehorse on May 15, National Park fees, out-trip food, tenting, guides, flight to and from Base camp, transport from Whitehorse to Kluane Lake, use of group climbing & emergency gear. Please note that this price is based on a group of 6 participants, extra charges will apply if the group is smaller. Note that at the end of the trip, meals & accommodation in Whitehorse & any additional expenses caused by delays in scheduled or charter flights & evacuation costs in case of medical emergency or in case of dropping out from expedition are >not included. In case extra time is needed to finish expedition, daily charges of $80.00/person will apply. The Climb Mount Logan, second highest peak in North America, is situated in the St. Elias Range of south western Yukon. Its summits form one of the world's largest alpine massifs. This massif rises from the largest non-polar ice cap. We attempt the King Trench, route of the first ascent in 1925. The climbing is mainly non-technical, often on skis or snowshoes but does require familiarity with use of crampons, with roping up for glacier travel and with crevasse rescue. From Basecamp at 2700m (9000ft.) on the Quintino Sella Glacier on the western end of the massif we ascend the glacier-floored trench between King and Queen peaks to King Col (4420m). From here we climb steeply through an icefall to a glacier ramp traversing the South Face to Prospector Pass. We then descend to the summit plateau and traverse 9km to reach the summit of Logan, never dropping below 5182m. The Game Plan After meeting and sorting gear in Whitehorse, capital of the Yukon Territory, we drive along the Alaska Highway to Kluane Lake from where we fly 145km by Helio Courier STOL aircraft to Basecamp on the Quintino Sella Glacier. Due to the length of the route, variable weather and the isolation of the Logan Plateau, we move 'expedition-style' making two carries to each camp. First we move up a supply of food then we descend back to our camp which we move up the next day. This gradual approach maximizes acclimatization by allowing us to climb high and sleep low. We generally use skis, either alpine touring or telemark, for most of the ascent. The climbing is moderate in difficulty. The ascent can take up to 20 days. The exact time needed will depend on weather, on snow conditions and upon the health and acclimatization of party members. The descent can be done in a couple of days. Course Agenda Day 1: Meet in Whitehorse, go over equipment with guides. Day 2: Drive to Kluane Lake, and if weather permits fly to Base camp. Poor weather may delay flying. This would alter the rest of the itinerary. Once in Base camp we spend a day going over glacier travel and crevasse rescue techniques as well as winter camping procedures. Day 3 - 23: These days we spend on the ascent and descent of the mountain. The exact time we need will depend upon weather, snow and the party's strength and acclimatization rate. Day 24: Weather permitting we fly out and return to Whitehorse. Note: Due to the unpredictability of the weather on the mountain, we strongly urge you to purchase an airline ticket which allows you to change your departure date with minimal penalty. Alternatively you may be able to get 'flight cancellation' insurance which may cover you if you miss your scheduled flight. It is also possible that we may complete the climb faster than expected thus allowing us to return to Whitehorse earlier than planned. Expedition Philosophy, Group Size And Guides Our record thus far is three out of four expeditions reaching the summit. Our experiences on this mountain have confirmed several important principles that we always maintain and that contribute to both success and safety. For us a successful expedition also means a safe one. These principles include: never less than two guides with a group. Never more than 4 people with a guide (preferably 3 people per guide). Mount Logan is quite a different proposition from Denali. On the West Buttress of Denali there may be a couple of hundred other people on the route as well as fixed, manned camps with in-place rescue services. On Logan we're largely on our own and must be completely self-sufficient. The weather on Logan, as on Denali can be extremely severe, especially on the upper portions where we spend an extended time at altitude. Should someone not acclimatize it is essential that we have a guide to accompany them down. For all these reasons we believe in having an exceptionally strong guide team on the mountain. Add to this the need for top-notch gear and you will begin to understand why this expedition is comparatively expensive. Successful mountaineering means having one's 'act together' and this is never truer than on Mount Logan where we do not believe in 'cutting corners'. Your guides are certified professionals with internationally-recognized 'Association of Canadian Mountain Guides' credentials. Yamnuska Inc. is licensed by Kluane National Park to guide on Mount Logan. How difficult is it? How fit and experienced need you be? Participants need prior winter camping and basic mountaineering experience. Whilst not overly technical, this climb requires good glacier travel knowledge and thorough competence in use of crampons and ice axe on moderate terrain. Participants should expect to carry a heavy pack, pull a toboggan and to push themselves very hard. This climb requires substantial powers of endurance for which good health and physical condition are essential. A pre-expedition medical is required. We prefer to use skis for much of the climb though snowshoes may be an option. Climbing at Altitude ... important to read and understand!!! It is absolutely essential that you understand before coming that climbing at altitude involves risks and factors not as prevalent at lower elevations. It is not uncommon for individuals to fail to acclimatize properly which may prevent them reaching any given summit. Climbing at altitude often involves a degree of personal discomfort in the form of headaches, lack of appetite and various other symptoms. Reaching the summit usually requires a greater degree of perseverance than one may be used too. The guides will only take participants who are acclimatized and healthy to the summit. If you join this expedition you must understand and accept the risks associated with altitude and accept the guides' authority. If you are not prepared to do this then this is not the trip for you. Please understand that our cancellation insurance does not cover cancellation due to inability to acclimatize or illness caused or exacerbated by high altitude. YOU MUST ALSO ACCEPT THAT CLIMBING AT HIGH ALTITUDE POSES CERTAIN RISKS AND HAZARDS THAT MAY NOT BE AMELIORATED BY SAFE GUIDING OR LEADERSHIP. Weather May is still winter in the mountains and temperatures at the base of Logan will range from -100C to -200C at night sometimes warming to 00C during the day. On the Mount Logan Plateau the temperatures can drop to -350C. The area is exposed to storms that can move in from the Gulf of Alaska and which can drop a lot of snow. Extra days have been allowed in the itinerary for bad weather even though it is possible to move over the route in quite severe conditions if necessary. Transportation We will arrange ground transport between Whitehorse and Kluane Lake. Accommodation and Meals The first night's accommodation will be in a hotel in Whitehorse (double occupancy), after that it will be in our 4-season expedition tents. Equipment and Clothing On booking we will send you a complete gear and clothing list. We supply group climbing and camping gear but you will need to bring personal climbing gear and your own clothing and general equipment. This will have to be of a type suitable for the extreme demands of this environment (e.g. full winter sleeping bags). Flights Whitehorse is served by regular flights from Vancouver and other Canadian cities. Connections are straightforward. Insurance You will need insurance that covers the cost of rescue and evacuation. Booking Information Please book as early as practical to avoid disappointment. We require a $1900 Canadian ($1275US) deposit with the balance due 8 weeks in advance, after that, full payment is required. To avoid unnecessary cancellation penalties we suggest you take our cancellation insurance for an extra non-refundable $285, this must accompany your deposit. For detailed booking instructions and conditions, click here. Along with all relevant receipts we will send you a full trip logistical kit (containing meeting times, a list of what to bring and info on how to get to Whitehorse), a waiver, Parks Canada Application form and a medical form. Upon Your Booking We Will Require From You:
** Must be done as soon as possible after booking. |
Mountaineering ·
Hiking, Backpacking ·
Semesters & Leadership ·
Rock Climbing ·
Ice Climbing ·
Avalanche Safety
Ski & Board · Private Guiding · Wilderness First Aid · About Us · Booking Information · Links · Japanese Site
Ski & Board · Private Guiding · Wilderness First Aid · About Us · Booking Information · Links · Japanese Site
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Yamnuska Inc. Suite 200 Summit Centre, 50 - 103 Bow Valley Trail, Canmore, Alberta, Canada, T1W 1N8 Tel: +1 403 678 4164 · Fax: +1 403 678 4450 · E-mail: info@yamnuska.com |