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Climb Mount Robson
'King of the Rockies'!
Course Details
Mount Robson is Canada's famous mountain. Climbers come from around the world to attempt its icy flanks. The great bulk of
this heavily glaciated peak creates its own climate and the summit is never assured. Just getting to the peak can be a challenge,
the summit is surrounded by broken glaciers, icefalls and tangled rainforest. Even if the weather cooperates you'll still need
stamina, drive and good mountaineering technique to reach the summit.
Why try it then? Simply it's a beautiful mountain, its shiny, trapezoid summit massif rising far above all other peaks for miles. The
climbing is classic, challenging glaciers on the approach, a demanding ice face followed by a twisting, sculpted snow ridge
leading to a spacious summit. Just getting to the top is half the battle, you have to reverse all you've climbed to get there.
Exhaustion is guaranteed!
The first time you see this mighty peak, you'll gasp, your heart will stop for a moment and you'll be hooked!
Dates
2000 Dates: July 31 - August 7; August 6 - 13
Price
$2390 CDN (c$1600US) covers GST, guides, helicopter flights, out-trip meals, group climbing and camping gear and first
night accommodation in Jasper. Meals in Jasper are not included. Cancellation insurance is $120.00.
The Climb, Our Approach
Many of the Rockies' best ice routes are found in this area and this week's objective is to
introduce you to these climbs whilst working with you on alpine ice skills.
The climbs are long and can take up to 14 hours return, elevation gain is typically around 1450m or
4,800ft. As it's really hard to do consecutive climbs we have found that the best approach is to
alternate climbing days with much easier instructional days. On the instructional days we cover
topics specific to alpine ice climbing. If time permits we may be able to review general
mountaineering topics with you.
Teaching on the 'instructional' days will be based on explanation and demonstration of techniques
followed by ample opportunity to practice. These techniques will then be used on the climbing
days.
On the climbing days our instructional approach changes to one of "mentorship". This is where
you learn by climbing with an expert who will impart his or her knowledge to you during the
progress of the climb. This includes not only techniques but also the mental approach and the drive
and judgment that fuel the successful mountaineer.
For safety and enjoyment, guide:guest ratios on climbing days start at 1:3 then drop to 1:2.
Location
Mt. Robson is located just west of Jasper National Park in British Columbia's Mount Robson Provincial Park, 100km west of the Jasper
townsite.
Course Agenda
Day 1:
Meet in Jasper 7:30pm. Pack for trip.
Day 2:
Drive to Robson Provincial Park (1 hour), fly to the Upper Robson Glacier, set
up camp as high as possible on this seriously crevassed glacier. Preferably on the
Resplendent Col at 2744m/9000ft.
Day 3:
Acclimatization and training day. Possibly climb Mount Resplendent (3426m /
11,237ft.).
Day 4:
If the group is ready, climb to the 'Dome Camp' at 3000m/9840ft. This section
can pose substantial difficulties. If possible we avoid the hazardous 'icefall' route in favor of the more difficult ridge leading to the 'Dome'
from the Col. Traversing this exposed rock ridge with heavy packs can be quite demanding. If not ready spend another day acclimatizing
and training. In this case go to the 'Dome' on Day 5.
Day 5:
Summit attempt via Kain Face route. Expect to be out for 14 hours. Leaving camp in the very
early hours of the morning you will head to the base of the 'Kain Face' and commence 550m of climbing
on snow, ice or both with angles reaching 500. From here the fun continues with the beautiful snow and
ice arete leading to the steep slopes circumventing the 'Helmet' and then, finally, the last section to the
summit. To descend we reverse the climb!
Day 6:
Spare day or second chance for summit.
Day 7:
Final summit opportunity or, if already successful, descend to the 'Extinguisher Tower' which is further down the Robson
Glacier. We may descend the 'Icefall' and must move quickly to minimize exposure to the very significant serac hazard.
Day 8:
Fly out from 'Extinguisher Tower' (if the weather is bad it is possible to walk out via Berg Lake). Return to Jasper where the
trip finishes. This can be a long day, so make travel plans accordingly.
Weather Note
Mount Robson is known for its variable weather and it is important to realize that
reaching the summit is very weather dependent. In 1999 one trip summitted, the other
did not.
Instructors and Group Size
The expedition will be led by certified guides who are licensed to operate in the area. For your enjoyment and safety there will be one
guide per two guests. The average group size is 6 guests plus 3 guides.
How difficult is it? How fit and experienced need you be?
You must have a resume of prior mountaineering experience which includes glacier
travel and climbing on steep ice and snow. This is one of our most demanding and
challenging programs. You will need to be in excellent condition. Train by running in hilly
terrain or by hiking with a heavy pack. Try and get out and do some mountaineering
beforehand.
Transportation
Jasper can be reached by bus from both Edmonton and Calgary. Once there we arrange a car pool for
participants. We are pleased to help you plan travel to Jasper.
Accommodation and Meals
During the expedition we supply all out-trip food and tent accommodation. Assistance from guests in setting up camps and in preparing
meals is expected. Please let us know if you have any dietary restrictions when booking.
For your convenience, we have booked simple lodgings in Jasper for the first night. If you wish to upgrade this and stay in a hotel, we can
arrange this for you but as Jasper is quite busy in the summer months, there is no guarantee of availability if left too late.
Equipment and Clothing
Your post-booking information kit will contain a full clothing and equipment list. We supply group camping and
climbing gear. If you don't have your own crampons, ice axe, harness etc we can help you out.
Insurance
Please ensure that you are covered for the cost of evacuation or rescue should you fall ill or be injured. Most health benefit plans (public
and private) and some travel insurance policies do cover this. Otherwise, in the unlikely event that you need these services you may be
liable for the cost (not astronomical). We can give you further information if necessary.
Booking Information
Please book as early as practical to avoid disappointment. We require a $797 Canadian ($542US) deposit with the balance due 8 weeks in
advance, after that, full payment is required. To avoid unnecessary cancellation penalties we suggest you take our cancellation insurance
for an extra non-refundable $120, this must accompany your deposit. Please read the following booking conditions and cancellation
penalties carefully before booking.
For detailed booking instructions and conditions, click here.
Along with all relevant receipts we will send you a full trip logistical kit (containing meeting times, a list of what to bring and info on how to
get here), a sample copy of our waiver which we will ask you to sign when you meet us and a experience questionnaire which we ask you
to return to us in advance of your arrival.
Training Programs
If you have insufficient experience for this expedition consider taking our advanced 'Columbia Icefields' alpine ice mountaineering
program. It is perfect training for Mount Robson. Alternatively we can arrange a few days of private instruction for you beforehand.
PLEASE DON'T HESITATE TO CONTACT US IF YOU NEED TO KNOW MORE ABOUT THIS COURSE!
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