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A millennial ascent of
Nevado Aconcagua
Course Details
Nevado Aconcagua is the highest peak in the Americas. Its 22,834ft. (6962m) bulk rears from an arid, high altitude desert 1600km
south of the Equator and on the lee side of the Andean divide.
This is an area of stark and uncompromising beauty. The mountain's southeastern flanks are steep and glaciated whilst the northwestern
flanks are lower angle rock and scree. Those who visit return impressed with nature's raw power as exampled by the strong winds which
blast the peak. They remember the barrenness of the place being punctuated by moments of surreal beauty as the rock changes color in
the setting sun and the skies above flare magenta and purple. They remember the 'penitentes' on the glacier, both obstacle and attraction
and they remember the sensation of being so very high above the earth!
It's hard to imagine a more magical place in which to experience a new millennium!
Dates
2000 - 2001: 27 December, 2000 to January 19, 2001
Land Cost
$4700 US (c.$6900Cdn) is based upon a group of four participants. Should we get fewer than four participants it may be
necessary to increase the cost in order for the expedition to run. Likewise the price is based upon exchange rates as of October 1999.
Significant adverse change may necessitate a price increase.
Land Cost includes all transport, accommodation and ground transfer costs from Mendoza, Argentina, meals and beverages,
hotels and mountain lodges, mountain food and fuel, mules to carry gear to and from BC, guides, group tentage and gear.
Land Cost does NOT include air fares and costs incurred getting to Mendoza, travel and rescue insurance, personal gear
and cost incurred due to circumstances beyond our control.
The Game Plan
From North America we fly to Mendoza, Argentina from where a long hour bus ride the next day brings us to Penitentes, near the
mountain. The approach to Base Camp takes three days and once there we settle into a routine of acclimatization and load carrying further
up the mountain culminating with a summit attempt some twelve days later. If all goes well we will descend the north-west flank to Plaza
de Mulas and hike out along the Rio Horcones. From the town of Puenta del Inca we return by road to Mendoza.
Our Route
We will be attempting the northeast buttress below the Polish Glacier to a point where we join the regular route coming from the northwest
at the 'Independencia Hut' for the final summit section on the the North Face through the 'Canaleta' to the final summit ridge. The climbing
is non-technical, mainly over broken rock slopes however the exaggerated effect of the altitude plus high winds and cold temperatures
increase the challenge considerably.
Course Agenda
Dec. 27:
Arrive Mendoza, Argentina.Overnight.
Dec. 28:
Obtain climbing permits.Drive to Penitentes. Stay in Hotel Ayelen. First views of Aconcagua if weather permits.
Dec. 29:
1st. approach day. Trek 4 to 5 hours with 15lb packs, the rest is carried by mules.
Dec. 30:
2nd. approach day. Trek 6 to 7 hours.
Dec. 31:
3rd approach day. Appreciate the last day of the millennium.
Jan. 1:
Last day of approach sees us ascend steep trails in the Relenchos Valley. By noon the East Face of Aconcagua is in sight
and 4 hours later we'll be pulling into Base Camp at Plaza Argentina (14,000ft.). The approach follows the Rio Vacas which we
cross many times. The river runs red with eroded silt and you'll hear boulders trundling along in it. The steepness of the valley gives
way to a huge flood plain dotted with huge boulders. Thorny vegetation struggles to survive in this harsh environment. Winds carry
drifting sand punctuated occasionally by the fragrance of tiny flowers. During the approach you will be hiking over rocky terrain
with numerous stream crossings. It will be essential to take great care of your feet to prevent foot injury and blistering. Another
concern will be the extremely strong sun necessitating lots of cream and a good sun hat.
Jan. 2:
Celebrate the New Year by resting then getting gear ready for the next phase of the expedition ... getting into position for a
summit ascent! In the afternoon we may carry loads a short distance up the mountain before dropping back to Base Camp. Now
the real work begins. For the next 12 to 14 days we will be ferrying loads to high camps, only moving up to occupy them when we
are acclimatized. Life will be simple. Wake up early, prepare a simple breakfast then leave camp as the Sun hits us (if we're lucky).
Then its on with the pack to climb for 6 to 8 hours before dropping your load and heading back down. Back in camp you'll melt
snow for drinks and prepare an evening meal. Finish the day by enjoying the sunset then 'hit the sack' before starting over again the
next day. As you get higher you'll begin to feel the effects of altitude. Your breathing will be labored and it'll be getting cold, down
to -200 with a biting wind!
Jan. 3:
Carry a load to Camp 1 at 16,000ft. This is on a good trail on rocky scree. Prepare the site for occupation the next day.
Jan. 4:
Move into camp 1. Rest for balance of day.
Jan. 5:
Rest day at Camp 1.
Jan. 6:
Carry a light load to Camp 2 at 18,000ft. on moderate trails and steep scree.
Jan 7:
Rest day at Camp 1.
Jan 8:
Move into Camp 2.
Jan 9:
Make a light carry to Camp 3.
Jan 10:
Move into Camp 3 and get ready for the summit.
Jan 11, 12, 13:
Possible summit days. We may put in a higher camp to reduce the length of what has been a very tough day. Our
route takes us up the NE buttress to to 'Independencia Hut' at 21,500ft. where we break out on the N. Face and climb the rock and
loose scree slopes of the 'Canaleta' to reach the summit ridge and a short scramble to the summit.
Jan 14:
Descent. This is a long day with heavy packs in which we head all the way back down to Base Camp on the NW side at
Plaza de Mulas (14,000ft.). As you descend you notice the effects of altitude washing away!
Jan 15:
Begin trek out, today to Mitchell's Meadow.
Jan 16:
Final trek day, at least 8 hours to Penitente. The thought of hot showers and an evening meal at the Hotel will keep your
spirits up for this long day of walking.
Jan 17 - 19:
Extra days to allow for bad weather, rest time or tourism. Guides fly from Mendoza on January 20. We recommend
you plan on the same day or a day earlier.
Group Size And Guides
Team leader for this expedition will be a senior Yamnuska guide, most likely Dwayne Congdon. Yamnuska guides have extensive altitude
experience, including climbs of Aconcagua, which will greatly enhance your experience. He will be assisted by other certified guides so
as to achieve a maximum 1:2 guiding ratio. Our climbing guides will be assisted by local trekking staff and drivers.
How difficult is it? How fit and experienced need you be?
Aconcagua is very physically demanding. There'll be long hours of hard physical work and load carrying plus difficult and cold weather to
cope with. You will need good health and a strong cardiovascular system. You'll need to be in great 'hiking' shape as the climbing is not
technically difficult. Whilst prior mountaineering experience is not essential it is most suitable for those with basic mountaineering skills.
Expedition applicants will need to complete a full medical upon registration.
The ascent will be made in semi-alpine style. This entails carrying packs (maximum 15kg) of food, fuel, tentage etc uphill to the next camp
site until we are sufficiently acclimatized to occupy the camp. In other words we "climb high and sleep low".
Climbing at Altitude ... important to read and understand!!!
It is absolutely essential that you understand before coming that climbing at altitude involves risks and factors not as prevalent at lower
elevations. It is not uncommon for individuals to fail to acclimatize properly which may prevent them reaching any given summit. Climbing
at altitude often involves a degree of personal discomfort in the form of headaches, lack of appetite and various other symptoms. Reaching
the summit usually requires a greater degree of perseverance than one may be used too. The guides will only take participants who are
acclimatized and healthy to the summit. If you join this expedition you must understand and accept the risks associated with altitude and
accept the guides' authority. If you are not prepared to do this then this is not the trip for you. Please understand that our cancellation
insurance does not cover cancellation due to inability to acclimatize or illness caused or exacerbated by high altitude.
YOU MUST ALSO ACCEPT THAT CLIMBING AT HIGH ALTITUDE POSES CERTAIN RISKS AND HAZARDS THAT
MAY NOT BE AMELIORATED BY SAFE GUIDING OR LEADERSHIP
Weather
We are making our attempt in the southern summer. Despite this the peak can be buffeted by severe storms and high winds.
Temperatures can plummet well below freezing (>-200C) at the higher elevations.
The itinerary may be changed to deal with bad weather and conditions.
Transportation
This is included from Mendoza. It will be by private bus or minibus.
Accommodation and Meals
All scheduled accommodation is included from the night of December 27 to January 18 in Mendoza. In Mendoza this will be in
comfortable hotels with rooms shared. On the expedition you will be using modern four season tents. Should extra hotel nights be needed
(in case of returning to Mendoza early for example), the extra costs will be borne by the participants. all meals are supplied.
Equipment and Clothing
Yamnuska will supply group camping and climbing gear. You will need to bring your own clothing and personal camping gear (backpack,
sleeping bag). We will supply a complete list when you book.
Flights
We can arrange these for you or supply details which will help you arrange your own. We prefer that you ticket with us so that we can
take advantage of the group excess baggage allowance and also keep the group together in case of travel disruptions.
Insurance
It is essential that you have complete accident and illness travel insurance.
Booking Information
Please book as early as practical to avoid disappointment. We require a $1567US deposit with the balance due 8 weeks in advance, after
that, full payment is required. To avoid unnecessary cancellation penalties we suggest you take our cancellation insurance for an extra
non-refundable $235, this must accompany your deposit.
For detailed booking instructions and conditions, click here.
Along with all relevant receipts we will send you a full trip logistical kit with all necessary expedition details (what to bring and info on how
to get to Mendoza etc), a waiver and a medical form.
Upon Your Booking We Will Require From You:
- Resume of alpine experience with references.*
- Completed Yamnuska waiver, signed by you and witnessed by a notary public.**
- Physicians certificate.**
* Must accompany application to Yamnuska.
** Must be done as soon as possible after booking.
PLEASE DON'T HESITATE TO CONTACT US IF YOU NEED TO KNOW MORE ABOUT THIS COURSE!
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