Peru's Nevado Alpamayo

Course Details

DATES - PRICE - AGENDA - ALTITUDE
WEATHER - DIFFICULTY, FITNESS & EXPERIENCE
TRANSPORTATION - ACCOMMODATION & MEALS
GEAR - FLIGHTS - INSURANCE - BOOKING

Alpamayo is a stunning 5947m peak in the Cordillera Blanca of Peru. It has been called the most beautiful mountain in the world. When, as the sun sets, you see this snow fluted, cornice draped pyramid turn alternately gold then pink then purple you'll understand why.

Read the following details carefully. To get the most enjoyment from this expedition it is important that you fully realize the difficulties and challenges involved and come mentally and physically prepared. Our objective is first and foremost a safe and enjoyable expedition, where success results from the pooling of our energies and strengths.

Read these details carefully. To get the most enjoyment from this expedition it is important that you fully realize the difficulties and challenge involved and come mentally and physically prepared. Our objective is first and foremost a safe and enjoyable expedition, where success results from the pooling of our energies and strengths.

Dates

2000: June 11 - 28

Land Cost

$4000 US Price is based upon group of four participants. It includes all scheduled accommodation, out-trip meals, guides, transportation from Lima and group equipment. NOT included are flight to Peru, meals in Lima and Huaraz and personal clothing and equipment. Cancellation coverage (strongly recommended) is US$200.

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The Game Plan

After meeting in Lima, the group heads to the mountain city of Huaraz in the Ancash province of Peru. From there we trek for two days up the spectacular Santa Cruz Valley surrounded by the spectacular pyramids of Nevada Santa Cruz, Artesonraju, Alpamayo and Talliraju to our base camp in the Quebrada Arhuaycocha. From base camp we will establish two more staging camps to get into position for Alpamayo itself.

Nevado Alpamayo, Peru

The Climb, Difficulty, and Style

The Ferrari route on the West Face of Alpamayo, first climbed in 1975, involves 500 meters of high angle climbing on snow and ice following a long and involved glacier approach. It is one of the the world's superlative climbs!

We believe that the quality of your experience is paramount. For this reason we eschew the 'Euro' approach where 1 guide has up to 10 people following far behind on fixed lines. We make an alpine style ascent. We begin by "climbing high and sleeping low" then move to our highest camp then attempt the peak.

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Course Agenda

June 13: Meet Lima Airport in early morning. Drive to Huaraz (9 hours), breakfast en-route.

June 14: Rest and acclimatization day in Huaraz

June 15: Drive to Caraz and then to the trailhead at Cholin (2850m).

June 16: Begin trek to Laguna Azulcocha.

June 17: Hike into the Quebrada de los Cedros to camp at Ruina Pampa (3850m). First views of Alpamayo.

June 18: Climb from Ruina Pampa to Alpamayo base camp.

June 19: Rest day at base camp.

June 20: Carry loads to Moraine camp at 4725m.

June 21: Move into Moraine camp.

June 22: Move to a high camp at below the W. face of Alpamayo.

June 23 & 24: Days for summit attempt.

June 25: Return to base camp.

June 26: Hike from base camp to Laguna Jatuncocha.

June 28: Hike out to Cashapampa, completing a circumnavigation of the peak, then drive to Huaraz.

June 29: Return to Lima.

June 30: Transport available to airport, fly home.

Guides, Guide Ratios, Our Experience

2000 expedition leader will be a senior Yamnuska guide, most likely James Blench, with extensive experience in this area. He/she will be assisted by other certified guides so as to achieve a maximum 1:2 guiding ratio. Our climbing guides will be assisted by Peruvian trekking staff and drivers.

How difficult is it? How fit and experienced need you be?

This expedition is physically very challenging and you must be in excellent condition to deal with the hard work involved in alpine-style climbing at altitude. We require that all participants undertake a full medical examination before departure. This is because at high altitudes otherwise minor health problems become major ailments. We would be happy to advise you on a suitable pre-expedition training program.

This expedition is suitable for people with at least moderate alpine mountaineering experience. This means ability to use crampons and ice axe and experience of glacier travel. Our 'Intro to Mountaineering' course would be perfectly adequate as prior experience. The climbing itself is not particularly technical but does require an ability to move well on mid-angle snow and ice terrain (450 angle). The glaciers are heavily crevassed and some difficult icefalls must be negotiated.

There are always risks in expedition climbing. In addition to occasionally significant objective hazards are those associated with altitude illness.

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Climbing at Altitude ... important to read and understand!!!

Your expedition leader, Barry Blanchard, has vast altitude mountaineering experience. Every effort will be taken to help you acclimatize. This will be done by gaining elevation very gradually thus allowing the body to adapt to the lower levels of oxygen found at high altitude. It is absolutely essential that you understand before coming that climbing at altitude involves risks and factors not as prevalent at lower elevations. It is not uncommon for individuals to fail to acclimatize properly which may prevent them from reaching any given summit. Climbing at altitude often involves a degree of personal discomfort in the form of headaches, lack of appetite and various other symptoms. Reaching the summit usually requires a greater degree of perseverance than one may be used to. The guides will only take participants who are acclimatized and healthy on summit attempts. If you join this expedition you must understand and accept the risks associated with altitude and accept the guides' authority. These risks include life-threatening conditions such as pulmonary and cerebral edema. If you are not prepared to do this then this is not the trip for you. Please understand that our cancellation insurance does not cover cancellation due to inability to acclimatize or illness caused or exacerbated by high altitude.

YOU MUST ALSO ACCEPT THAT CLIMBING AT HIGH ALTITUDE POSES CERTAIN SERIOUS RISKS AND HAZARDS THAT MAY NOT BE AMELIORATED BY SAFE GUIDING OR LEADERSHIP.

Weather and Conditions

Snow line in May and June is between 4800 and 5000 meters depending upon aspect. The area usually experiences fine, dry weather at this time of year. Temperatures can be cold (-150C) at the higher elevations.

The itinerary may be changed to deal with bad weather and conditions. Should Alpamayo be in excessively dangerous condition then a safer alternative will be attempted.

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Transportation

This is included from Lima Airport. It will be by private bus or minibus.

Accommodation and Meals

All scheduled accommodation is included from the night of June 11 to June 27 in Lima. In Lima and Huaraz this will be in comfortable hotels with rooms shared. On the expedition you will be using modern four season tents. Should extra hotel nights be needed (in case of returning to Huaraz early for example), the extra costs will be borne by the participants. Meals in Lima and Huaraz will be the responsibility of participants. Peru is not an expensive country and there are many restaurant choices. The guides will help with tips as to hygiene etc. All out-trip meals will be supplied and will consist of a mix of imported light weight foods and local food.

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Equipment and Clothing

Yamnuska will supply group camping and climbing gear. You will need to bring personal climbing gear (ice axes, crampons, harness etc.) and your own clothing and personal camping gear (backpack, sleeping bag). We will supply a complete list when you book.

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Flights

American, Continental and United Airlines have daily flights arriving around 4.30am into Lima. We will arrange for our drivers to meet us off these flights. We ask that you coordinate your flights with us. Prices depend upon city of departure. From Calgary a return trip is currently $1200 (US$800). Lower costs can be anticipated from points further south. You will need around US$40/day in Lima and Huaraz. Take a bit extra just in case, and we suggest Amex US$ travelers cheques in small denominations plus some small denomination US$ cash.

Insurance

It is essential that you have complete accident and illness travel insurance.

Booking Information

Please book as early as practical to avoid disappointment. We require a $1333US deposit with the balance due 8 weeks in advance, after that, full payment is required. To avoid unnecessary cancellation penalties we suggest you take our cancellation insurance for an extra non-refundable $200US, this must accompany your deposit. Please submit a resume of alpine experience with references with your booking.

For detailed booking instructions and conditions, click here.

Along with all relevant receipts we will send you a full trip logistical kit with all necessary expedition details (what to bring and info on how to get to Lima etc), a waiver and a medical form.

PLEASE DON'T HESITATE TO CONTACT US IF
YOU NEED TO KNOW MORE ABOUT THIS COURSE!

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