Peru's Nevado Huascaran

Course Details

DATES - PRICE - AGENDA - ALTITUDE
WEATHER - DIFFICULTY, FITNESS & EXPERIENCE
TRANSPORTATION - ACCOMMODATION & MEALS
GEAR - FLIGHTS - INSURANCE - BOOKING

There's something about the expedition game that's incredibly addictive and it's not just the exhilaration of reaching the planet's highest points. Perhaps it's the opportunity to step out of our complicated lives and for several weeks dedicate ourselves to the pursuit of something more pure, more esthetic, to be part of a totally focused team cooperating to reach a common elusive objective. To be totally exposed to the changing moods of the mountains, to be constantly astounded by extraordinary surroundings and situations. Perhaps its the mental rewards of reaching past the significant discomforts of physical exertion at one's limits to find resources of strength and perseverance we never knew we had. It's life lived to the full and it defines us!

Peru is a great place to try the expedition game. In addition to fantastic alpine scenery and climbing, it is a country of cultural contrast where its two heritages, Spanish and Quechua, struggle to create a unique identity. It is a country facing tremendous challenges which Peruvians tackle with great spirit.

Our objective is found in the great central Cordillera Blanca. Nevado Huascaran is a mammoth glaciated fortress, its twin summits surrounded by tangled, icy spires. At 6768m it is Peru's highest peak and one that Yamnuska has successfully climbed many times. Be part of our team as we explore high places and flirt with addiction to the expedition game!

Read the following details carefully. To get the most enjoyment from this expedition it is important that you fully realize the difficulties and challenges involved and come mentally and physically prepared. Our objective is first and foremost a safe and enjoyable expedition, where success results from the pooling of our energies and strengths.

Dates

2000: May 21 - June 11

Land Cost

$4000 US based upon a minimum group size of four. Price includes all scheduled accommodation, out-trip meals, group equipment, transportation from Lima and guides. NOT included are transportation to Peru, meals in Lima and Huaraz and personal clothing and climbing equipment or any extra expenses incurred beyond our control. Cancellation coverage (strongly recommended) is $200US.

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The Game Plan

On arrival in Lima we head straight for the mountains. After a day of acclimatization at the mountain town of Huaraz, we head to the Llanganuco Valley for further acclimatization and an initial climb of Nevado Pisco (5800m). Pisco is a perfect first altitude objective on which we can also refine our mountaineering skills. We then return to Musho, near the trail head for Huascaran, where we spend a day getting ready for this, our main objective. This will take us another eight days of which the highlight may be standing on this incredibly high summit, absorbing a view that encompasses the Amazon Basin, the arid coast ranges and the amazing summits of the 'Blanca' including our next objective Alpamayo!

Nevado Huascaran, Peru

The Climbs, Difficulty

The Llanganuco Valley is located in the Cordillera Blanca 50km north of Huaraz. Surrounding the valley are many heavily glaciated peaks. Nevado Pisco is similar in difficulty to the regular routes on Athabasca. It involves high camps and the gradual approach needed to enhance acclimatization. It's a great training climb for Huascaran.

We attempt the 'Garganta' route on the NW flanks of Huascaran. The main difficulty is found in the heavily crevassed 'Garganta Icefall' which also involves some objective hazard from serac fall. Once past this section the climb involves fairly straightforward climbing on snow or ice although the effects high altitude will be slowing us down. If the Icefall turns out to be too dangerous we may opt for an alternate climb.

The ascents will be made in semi-alpine style. This often entails carrying loads with food, fuel, tentage etc uphill to the next camp site until we are sufficiently acclimatized to occupy the camp. In other words we "climb high and sleep low".

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Course Agenda

May 23: Meet at Lima Airport, drive to Huaraz at 3000 meters. (9 hours travel) . Our flights arrive at 0430. We will be met at the Airport and commence the trip to Huaraz immediately. Lunch at seaside town of Barranca en-route.

May 24: Logistics and Sightseeing in Huaraz area, acclimatization..

May 25: Drive via Musho to base camp in Llanganuco Valley (c.3960 m.), c. 90km.

May 26: Acclimatization hike.

May 27: Acclimatization hike to Portachuelo and one of the world's best mountain views!

May 28: Carry load to Pisco Base Camp (acclimatization).

May 29: Move to Pisco Base Camp.

May 30: Start ascent to Huandoy/Pisco Col.

May 31: Establish camp on Col (c. 5350 m.).

June 1: Climb Pisco (5800 meters). Return to main valley.

June 2: Drive back to Musho.

June 3: Rest Day.

June 4: Hike to base camp at 4200 m.

June 5: Establish Camp 1 on the moraines beneath the glacier (c. 4700 m.).

June 6: Climb onto the glacier to establish Camp 2 (c. 5300 m.).

June 7: Climb through 'Garganta Icefall' to camp on 'Garganta Col' (5800 m.).

June 8: Summit day.

June 9: Spare day.

June 10: Descend mountain to Camp 2.

June 11: Descend to Base Camp and return to Huaraz.

June 12: Return to Lima.

June 13: Trip ends. Fly home early morning.

Guides, Our Experience

2000 expedition leader will be a senior Yamnuska guide, most likely James Blench, with extensive previous experience in this area. He will be assisted by other certified guides so as to achieve safe and appropriate guiding ratios. Our climbing guides will be assisted by Peruvian trekking staff and drivers.

How difficult is it? How fit and experienced need you be?

This expedition is physically very challenging and you must be in excellent condition to deal with the hard work involved in alpine-style climbing at altitude. We require that all participants undertake a full medical examination before departure. This is because at high altitudes otherwise minor health problems become major ailments. We would be happy to advise you on a suitable pre-expedition training program.

This expedition is suitable for people with at least moderate alpine mountaineering experience. This means ability to use crampons and ice axe and experience of glacier travel. Our 'Intro to Mountaineering' course would be perfectly adequate as prior experience. The climbing itself is not particularly technical but does require an ability to move well on mid-angle snow and ice terrain (450 angle). The glaciers are heavily crevassed and some difficult icefalls must be negotiated.

There are always risks in expedition climbing. In addition to occasionally significant objective hazards are those associated with altitude illness.

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Climbing at Altitude ... important to read and understand!!!

Your expedition leader, Barry Blanchard, has vast altitude mountaineering experience. Every effort will be taken to help you acclimatize. This will be done by gaining elevation very gradually thus allowing the body to adapt to the lower levels of oxygen found at high altitude.

It is absolutely essential that you understand before coming that climbing at altitude involves risks and factors not as prevalent at lower elevations. It is not uncommon for individuals to fail to acclimatize properly which may prevent them from reaching any given summit. Climbing at altitude often involves a degree of personal discomfort in the form of headaches, lack of appetite and various other symptoms. Reaching the summit usually requires a greater degree of perseverance than one may be used to. The guides will only take participants who are acclimatized and healthy on summit attempts. If you join this expedition you must understand and accept the risks associated with altitude and accept the guides' authority. These risks include life-threatening conditions such as pulmonary and cerebral edema. If you are not prepared to do this then this is not the trip for you. Please understand that our cancellation insurance does not cover cancellation due to inability to acclimatize or illness caused or exacerbated by high altitude.

YOU MUST ALSO ACCEPT THAT CLIMBING AT HIGH ALTITUDE POSES CERTAIN SERIOUS RISKS AND HAZARDS THAT MAY NOT BE AMELIORATED BY SAFE GUIDING OR LEADERSHIP.

Weather and Conditions

Snow line in May and June is between 4800 and 5000 meters depending upon aspect. The area usually experiences fine, dry weather at this time of year. Temperatures can be cold at the higher elevations.

The itinerary may be changed to deal with bad weather and conditions. For example should Huascaran be in excessively dangerous condition then a safer alternative will be attempted (eg. Chopicalqui).

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Transportation

This is included from Lima Airport. It will be by private bus or minibus.

Nevado Huascaran, Peru

Accommodation and Meals

All scheduled accommodation is included from the night of May 21 to June 10 in Lima. In Lima and Huaraz, this will be in comfortable hotels with rooms shared. On the expedition you will be using modern four-season tents. Should extra hotel nights be needed (in case of returning to Huaraz early for example), the extra costs will be borne by the participants. Meals in Lima and Huaraz will be the responsibility of participants. Peru is not an expensive country and there are many restaurant choices. The guides will help with tips as to hygiene etc. All out-trip meals will be supplied and will consist of a mix of imported light weight foods and local food.

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Equipment and Clothing

Yamnuska will supply group camping and climbing gear. You will need to bring personal climbing gear (ice axes, crampons, harness etc.), and your own clothing and personal camping gear (backpack, sleeping bag etc). We will supply a complete list when you book.

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Flights

American, Continental and United Airlines have daily flights arriving around 4.30am into Lima. We will arrange for our drivers to meet us off these flights. We ask that you coordinate your flights with us. Prices depend upon city of departure. From Calgary a return trip is currently $1200 (US$800). Lower costs can be anticipated from points further south.

You will need around US$40/day in Lima and Huaraz. Take a bit extra just in case, and we suggest Amex US$ travelers cheques in small denominations plus some small denomination US$ cash.

Insurance

It is essential that you have complete accident and illness travel insurance.

Booking Information

Please book as early as practical to avoid disappointment. We require a $1333US deposit with the balance due 8 weeks in advance, after that, full payment is required. To avoid unnecessary cancellation penalties we suggest you take our cancellation insurance for an extra non-refundable $200US, this must accompany your deposit. Please submit a resume of alpine experience with references when booking.

For detailed booking instructions and conditions, click here.

Along with all relevant receipts we will send you a full trip logistical kit with all necessary expedition details (what to bring and info on how to get to Lima etc), a waiver and a medical form.

PLEASE DON'T HESITATE TO CONTACT US IF
YOU NEED TO KNOW MORE ABOUT THIS COURSE!

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