Getting

Reading and researching before hand will give you better insight as to just what is involved in caring for a pet rabbit. A really good book to start with is "Rabbits For Dummies", by Audrey Pavia. This book covers a variety of topics, starting with the basics such as care, feeding, housing, and training. It also discusses how to bunny-proof your home and what happens if you don't. In addition, it addresses bunny co-existing with other pets in the house and many of the common medical concerns you might have.

In addition to books there are various rabbit organizations whom you can contact for both information. In addition there are also a wide variety of informative websites and e-list that you can visit or subscribe to for more information.

There are 5 classifications of size and well over 45 different breeds of rabbits. So the easiest thing do is first decide what size of rabbit you would like and then you can determine whether you prefer long versus short hair (long hair rabbits require more grooming) and straight ears verses lopped ears. Once you have done all that you can then find a breed within that particular classification.

Pet rabbits are generally bigger and fatter than those kept for show due to the difference in diet and abundance of treat foods, so keep this in mind when looking at the listed weights for a particular rabbit breed. In addition mixed breeds are just as lovable and trainable as purebred rabbits.

Dwarf 2 to 4 lbs.

Small 3 to 5 lbs.

Medium 5 to 10 lbs.

Large 10 to 12 lbs.

Giant over 9 lbs.

Dwarf Breeds: American Fuzzy Lop, Britannia Petite, Dwarf Hotot, Jersey Wooly, Holland Lop, Netherland Dwarf and Polish. The common pets are the Holland Lop and Netherland Dwarf.

Small Breeds: English Angora, Dutch, Florida White, Havana, Mini Lop, Mini Rex, Silver and Tan. The common pets are Dutch, Mini Lop and Mini Rex.

Medium Breeds: American Sable, Belgian Hare, Californian, English Spot, Harlequin, Lilac, Rex, Rhinelander, Satin Angora, Silver Martin, and Standard Chinchilla. The common pets are Californian, and Rex.

Large Breeds: American, American Chinchilla, Beveren, Champagne d'Argent, Cinnamon, Crème d'Argent, French Angora, Hotot, New Zealand, Palomino, Satin, and Silver Fox. The common pets are New Zealand, Palomino and Satin.

Giant Breeds: Checkered Giant, English Lop, Flemish Giant, French Lop, Giant Angora and Giant Chinchilla. The common pets are English Lop, Flemish Giant and French Lop.

Please note that it is not recommended or advised that rabbits be adopted as a "child's pet". As with all pets, a rabbit should be a "family pet" with the primary care giver being a responsible adult. All interactions between child and rabbit should be supervised to ensure that the rabbit is handled safely and correctly. Incorrect handling of a rabbit can result in injuries to either the rabbit and/or the child. A rabbit can obtain spinal injuries and even death as result of mishandling, whereas, a child can obtain serious bite wounds and scratches that may require stitches.

Many of the dwarf and smaller breeds are not recommended if you have young children due to their delicate nature. Whereas, many of the larger breeds could be too much for a young child to handle. I personally do not recommend any breed smaller than 5 lbs., (with the ideal pet weight being around 7-10 lbs.), if you have children. The more popular breeds, if you have children are Dutch, Mini Lop and Mini Rex.

Although most bunnies are fully weaned by the age of 6 weeks, it is recommended that a bunny not be removed from its mother before 8 weeks of age. Bunnies younger than this are often smaller, less tolerant to stress and have a greater risk of illness and mortality.

While bunnies look cute, they soon grow into rabbits and before that they must pass through the so-called teenage years. Like any human teenager, they are into everything and anything and can be quite a challenge to look after. You can avoid these troublesome years by adopting an older rabbit.

Male rabbits tend to spray to mark territory, much like male cats do. Females may also spray and have a tendency to be more territorial and aggressive (although this is not always the case). Regardless of gender, please SPAY/NEUTER your rabbit. This not only eliminates unwanted pregnancies but can help with behaviours such as spraying and aggression. Spaying your female rabbit/doe will also ensure that she does not get uterine cancer, which could very well be the number one killer in unspayed does. Although, not as predominant as uterine cancer, male rabbits can get prostrate cancer and neutering eliminates this possibility. Another advantage of adopting an older rabbit is that they may already be spayed or neutered thus saving you the additional expense.

Indoor or out? A rabbit kept outdoors can often be forgotten and could become boring, not to mention that it is subjected to the elements and potential predators. A rabbit kept indoors gives the rabbit a better chance at becoming a full fledge member of the family and will likely receive more attention.

This is not to say a rabbit cannot be housed outdoors. With proper housing and care many rabbits have been raised outside, however, I prefer to see pet rabbits raised inside the family home where they can have ample run time inside the house.

When housing rabbits indoors you must remember to bunny-proof your home. This means making it a safe place for bunny to be, by hiding cords, putting plants out of reach, keeping other animals away and so forth. This also aids in protecting your favourite possessions from becoming chew toys. However, a rabbit will always find away to exercise his/her teeth on an electrical or phone cord and even your fine sofa, so proper training and discipline for bunny will be needed.

Cages: I recommend a minimum cage size of at least 3-ft long by 2 ft wide, with easy access for rabbit to come and go. Larger is better if the rabbit is going to be spending a lot of time in the cage. I also recommend a solid cage floor versus wire bottom cages; this will help reduce the chances of your rabbit getting sore hocks (a skin condition effecting the bottoms of the hind feet).

Litter/Bedding: I personally recommend, and use, Care Fresh Pet Bedding (made from reclaimed wood pulp) available at Bosley's Pet Food Stores, or wherever pet supplies are sold.. Never use cedar or pine shavings as they have been linked to respiratory problems in rabbits. If you prefer wood shavings, aspen can be safely used. Never use clumping cat litter or cat litters containing deodorizing crystals as these too have been linked to serious medical conditions. If you prefer cat litters, a simple clay-based litter works really well.

When it comes time to look into adopting a rabbit, start by first checking with the SPCA and local animal shelters. You will be surprised at how many rabbits and varieties are available. These rabbits are in desperate need of our tender loving care and will often thankfully return the attention. In addition, as previously mentioned, rabbits from local shelters may already be spayed and neutered reducing your overall costs.

Many of the purebred rabbit breeds are not found in pet stores or shelters and must be purchased from a qualified, reputable breeder.

When purchasing from pet stores be extremely careful, many rabbit breeds and genders are misidentified, therefore you may get a breed you did not want or worse a pregnant rabbit you were told was a male.

Think it over. Take some time to think about your decision to adopt a rabbit and spend some time to further research the topic. It is by making well-informed decisions that we can help reduce the unwanted pet population. Know why and what it is you expect from having a pet rabbit. Have a plan of action, in mind, for training your rabbit; will you litter train it? Harness train it?

Far too many pets have been adopted and then later returned or abandoned because the owner was unprepared for the responsibility and/or the pet did not fit into their lifestyles. If you can, try fostering a rabbit from a local shelter or breeder before committing to adopt it. This is an easy way to take a “trial run” on owning a pet rabbit and will give you better insight if this is indeed the right pet for you and your family.

Once you think you have found the right rabbit, examine it carefully. Interact with the rabbit before hand; is it easy to pick-up? Does it hide in a corner away from you? Does it bite? You can learn much about the rabbit's personality by observing and handling the rabbit for awhile before adopting it. Give the rabbit a good physical examination; is it clean? Does it have diarrhea? Is the fur matted? Are the eyes bright and clear? Do its teeth align properly?

Do not adopt an apparently sick animal, unless you are prepared for any possible consequences. Many shelters will allow you to have the rabbit checked out by a veterinarian before hand.

If the rabbit is from a shelter, ask about its history, why was it surrendered? Was it a stray? Knowing as much as you can about the rabbit before hand will reduce the chance of any surprises later on. If the rabbit is from a breeder, ask if you can see the parents.

Finally, when all is said and done, you did your research and found the bunny that is just right for you…take the time to enjoy bunny. Having a bunny for a pet can be very enjoyable and rewarding for many years to come.