Providing Information About Rabbits

Providing Comfortable Housing For Bunny

Cages:

I recommend a cage of at least 3-ft long by 2 ft wide, with easy access for rabbit to come and go. The general rule is "1 pound of rabbit to 1 square foot of space". In my opinion, larger is better especially if the rabbit is going to be spending a lot of time in the cage.

Remember that a cage should be big enough to accommodate a small litterbox, food bowl, water bottle and a place to stretch out and sleep.

If your cage has a wire bottom, it's best to supply a sitting pad for your rabbit to help minimize the potential of "sore hocks" a condition, which results in the bottom of your rabbit's feet becoming red, swollen and sore.

Cages should be kept out of direct sunlight, away from heating/air-conditioning vents, stereo speakers and the TV. It should also be out of the way of direct traffic and yet not hidden in an isolated area of the house were rabbit can become forgotten.

For more information on cage size and requirements, please read "Cage Sizes & Primary Enclosures".

Bedding:

Depending on how your rabbit is housed you may want to provide bedding material that is different from the litter material you use. For example, you don’t want to use clay-based cat litter as a bedding material. You can use Care Fresh Pet Bedding, aspen wood shavings with out too much problems. Other items used are stray/hay, newspaper, old towels and carpet slabs. If you find your rabbit chewing on the fabrics, carpet or newspaper you might want to try something else. I have not found any documentation as yet discouraging the use of newspapers, but common sense tells me that I don’t want bunny ingesting all the inks and dyes found in newsprint. You can also buy commercial made bedding, however, stay away from exposed foam so rabbit will not be so willing to eat it.

Litter:

Care Fresh Pet Bedding (reclaimed wood pulp litter) available at Bosley's Pet Food Stores (or wherever pet supplies are sold) is an excellent choice. Never use cedar or pine shavings as they have been linked to respiratory problems in rabbits. If you prefer wood shavings, aspen can be safely used. You can also use paper products; such as "Yesterday's News" which is a paper pellet litter.

Never use clumping cat litter or cat litters containing deodorizing crystals as these too have been linked to serious medical conditions. If you prefer cat litters, a simple clay-based litter works really well. The only real problem with traditional cat litters is that they tend to be very dusty.

* NOTE: Cedar & Pine Shavings: There is still some debate on the use of Cedar & Pine wood shavings. I have personally recommended that people stay away from cedar and pine as a precautionary measure. I feel that if there is the slightest health risk to my animals, and the product is not the only option available, I will find a safer alternative. The above links provide information both for and against the use of cedar and pine shavings.

* NOTE: Cat Litters: Clumping cat litters are designed to absorb liquid, therefore if accidentally ingested by your rabbit it can cause intestinal blockages. Deodorizing cat litters contain chemicals that could be harmful if ingested.

Litterbox:

A small plastic cat litterbox works quite well. I recommend buying at least 2 litterboxes; 1 for inside the rabbit cage, and 1 for outside the cage. Usually the one outside the cage is slightly larger than the one inside.

Dishes:

Ceramic bowls and dishes work best and have enough weight so that they are not easily tipped over. In addition you can use a water bottle for the cage if you prefer.

Bunny Extras

Toys:

Ordinary cat toys, stuffed animals and chunks of wood for chewing make great toys. Another thing that is really good is providing a cat-condo for your rabbit. If you don't have a condo you can take an ordinary cardboard box and close it all up with the exception of small bunny door. This provides bunny with a place to hide, and if you fill it with shredded newspapers it can also be a digging box.

Harness & Leash:

If you are planning on harness training your rabbit, you will need to buy a harness. There are now commercially made rabbit harness available in most pet supply stores. I would personally stay away from what is called a "figure 8" harness. These are harness that when you pull on the leash, the harness tightens around the neck. The preferred choice is a "figure H" harness, like those used for cats and dogs. If you have a large breed rabbit, you may want to by a kitten or cat harness for a better fit.

As for the leash, I use a small retractable cat leash; it does the job without weighing the rabbit down.

Grooming Supplies:

With the exception of the long-haired breeds, most rabbits require minimal grooming. Rabbits do shed and therefore will need to be brushed on a regular basis, especially at times of heavy moulting. Nail trimming is essential and should be done every 6 to 8 weeks. Rabbits with light coloured nails are easier to trim then those with dark nail. Either way you might want to have someone show you how do it, before you try it yourself. The grooming supplies you will need to get are a brush, flea comb and nail trimmer, and those used for a cat will work nicely for a rabbit.

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