|SJ23 Tech Tip C07, (Updated 2015-07-05, Bob Schimmel, Joe Thomas & Jim Thompson)|
A cabin heater gives you more early and late season time
to enjoy your boat. You can be comfortable onboard in a quiet
anchorage while others stay
home. It is probably the most comfortable way to extend your sailing into
season. A warm, dry cabin can change a marginal day into a good
day and we all know that any day spent on the water is a good one.
Using a cooking stove to heat your cabin may be quick but it's also dangerous due to the lethal carbon monoxide gas that quickly accumulates in a closed cabin. If you adhere to this practice you will likely find yourself on the list of those who visit St. Peter each year, in which case you better know the answer to the secret question or he's not letting you in! Succumbing to carbon monoxide poisoning is very preventable. The other problem of heating with a stove is the moisture an open flame produces. A purpose made cabin heater with a chimney to vent dangerous exhaust fumes outside is safe and clean, assuming you allow make up air to enter the cabin.
The Cozy Cabin Heater is designed to operate when the boat is on a relatively even keel but an occasional roll from a wave doesn't bother the flame as it can stay lit and the chimney draft isn't affected. I've turned this heater on it's side and the burner stayed in place, which is remarkable since it is held in place by gravity. Before I installed my heater I operated it at 300 for 15 seconds. It continued burning without a problem but the draft was reduced. Continued operation with a boat heeled over like this is inviting trouble.
You'll find these heaters used most often at the dock or anchored somewhere in the rain. Check out a rainy anchorage and watch which boat has people onboard. Nine times out ten they'll be on the heated boat, regardless of its size. I've seen people doing maintenance, partying or reading a book. There is probably nothing more soothing than reading a good book in a warm cabin with a coffee in hand. Some popcorn wouldn't hurt either. Makes you feel snug and cozy all over doesn't it? Motoring through the drizzle in a warm cabin is another experience not to be missed. Sometimes I wonder if these aren't the best parts of sailing! Alternatively there is nothing more miserable than a cold, damp cabin to drive you off the water. Given that situation I would much rather be on land where my activity can keep me warm. This is precisely the reason why I installed a heater on Panache.
When the Cozy Cabin heater was introduced in the 1970s it was available in four fuel models, diesel/kerosene or propane/compressed natural gas, with an adjustable heat output of 4000 to 6000 BTUs. To roughly calculate how many BTUs are required to heat a cabin, calculate the cabin volume by (H x W x D) = V ft3, then multiply the volume by 10 if the cabin is insulated, or by 15 if it is not insulated. The SJ23 volume calculates to (7.5W x 16.5H x 7D)=189 ft3, where the required heat is 12,000 BTU. From my experience a Force 10 heater produces adequate heat in the shoulder seasons. I seldom run it on full heat. I even use it during the winter while working on the boat.
PARTS & SERVICE - This 1970s bulkhead cabin heater (Model FT 100 PR OXD) was originally manufactured by FORCE 10 in Vancouver, B.C. Canada. As of 2000 the unit was manufacture discontinued when the company changed their product line to stoves shown on their web site. Sig Marine now sells parts for the Cozy Cabin heater in Surrey, B.C. (Canada). Email for technical assistance or phone 1(800)659-9768 For service.
MANUFACTURER INSTALLATION RECOMMENDATIONS for the FORCE 10 COZY CABIN HEATER.
USING THE HEATER - Regardless of which
version of Cozy Cabin bulkhead heater you have, they all produce enough
heat for an SJ23 cabin. However, the secret to a successful installation is to
install a Caframon or other small whisper quiet
fan above and to the side of the heater to drive the hot air down to the cabin floor.
feels good! This is the only way you will ever warm
your tootsies which would otherwise be immersed in the three foot deep layer of cold air below the
heater! If the top of the bulkhead is
open to the ceiling then you can pivot the fan 1800 to send the hot air forward to dry
the berth. It's so nice to crawl into dry bedding on a rainy day.
other reason for a full articulating fan is to satisfy all those
'adjusters' out there! I've never seen a fan that somebody didn't
want to point in another direction. If it can oscillate, then all the better.
By the way, the fan is great for cooling you off in hot weather.
PROS & CONS - The FORCE 10 Cozy Cabin Heaters were manufactured in four fuel types, each with their pros and cons. All are bulkhead mounted. They are now manufacturer discontinued but parts are still available at the time of this writing.
It is arguable which type of fuel poses the greatest potential hazard. There are pros and cons to each type and your operating knowledge, along with proper maintenance, is key. LPG (propane) is an excellent and convenient fuel if used in accordance with rules, safety and common sense. Neither of the liquid fuels are as explosive as the gaseous fuels but if they puddle that fuel can also be dangerous. Regardless of which type you have, it is a wise to stay awake (both feet on the floor and sitting upright) while the heater is burning. It is also wise to install a carbon monoxide detector in the cabin, especially if you intend to nap, even if for only five minutes! Thankfully not many people can sleep comfortably with a heater burning, however slight the hissing noise of the flame is. The smartest thing that most people do is keep the cabin heated till the sun fizzles below the horizon and then snuff the flame, preferring to rely on the warmth of a good sleeping bag and the comforting knowledge that you won't succumb to carbon monoxide poisoning overnight. I consider the heater both a safety feature and a luxury in marginal, damp weather.
BULKHEAD INSTALLATION in a SJ23 - While an SJ23 has a roomy cabin for its length, there is really only one practical place to mount a bulkhead heater, against the port bulkhead. If you find this spot too intrusive you may want to invest in a portable heater like an Origo alcohol stove that can be placed on the floor. However, if you operate your boat in an area with lots of marginal weather then a permanent cabin heater is the best way to go. The FORCE 10 diesel/kerosene heater shown at right was installed on "Gecko" by the original owner who worked for Clark during the summer. Joe Thomas now owns her and has sailed her out of Seattle for many years. The FORCE 10 propane heater shown below was installed on "Panache" by Bob Schimmel. TOP
PRECAUTION - Fire at sea is the most feared of all hazards
for a sailor. There is virtually no way to escape from it. Going
over the side it hardly a solution and riding it out in the dinghy is only
marginally better. Fire prevention is everything. For this
reason you MUST install this heater with ALL the safety precautions
recommended by the manufacturer in the manual, plus any other that are required
unique requirements on your boat. This is your responsibility to
figure this out and definitely NOT a time to make a
THERMAL PROTECTION for TABLE - A section of the port leaf of Panache's table was cut out to clear the body of the heater. Ooh it hurt to cut such nicely finished wood work! However, the cut out section created the required 2" air gap around the heater, thereby keeping the edge of the table cool when it is up. Long term heating of the table fiddle shouldn't be a problem. However, I will apply duct tape (reflective aluminum) to the fiddle as a precaution. I may not be onboard if someone else operates it! The top metal plate radiates lots of heat sideways and a lot of hot air passes out of the heat exchanger holes at the top. The flame also radiates heat sideways but not nearly as much the plate and the holes at the top. At the height shown in my installation, it is quite easy to light or service the burner, which is an important consideration.
THERMAL PROTECTION for BULKHEAD - Use high temperature fiber washers under the mounting feet to insulate them from the bulkhead (shown below). To keep the bulkhead cool I mounted sheet metal behind the heater (shown at left) but I've also seen ceramic tile used. This is important if you operate the heater for an extended time, especially if it's a really good book! If you use sheet metal, install it loose against the wall so the slight air gap behind it can't conduct the heat to the bulkhead. Most of the heat will be reflected if the sheet metal is shiny. Panache's installation shown above is polished aluminum (light sand paper) and the wood bulkhead always stays stone cold. Maybe I'm anal about this stuff but I regularly check the heater for over heating while it runs. TOP
STACK - The chimney stack doesn't have to go straight up as shown in Joe's installation at left. To keep hot exhaust gas away from poly deck lines I installed Panache's deck cap about 8" off to the side of the heater. This was beyond the limits of a bender so I cut the stack in two places, 300 each, and welded the assembly back inline. Polishing was accomplished with a Dremel tool using successively finer compounds. As an alternative to offsetting the deck cap you could use a straight stack and raise the deck cap above the deck lines with a thick wood spacer ring. The extra height has the added benefit of keeping more solid water out. As you can see in the photo below I offset the stack and raised the deck cap.
If you wish to make smooth bends then use a stainless steel tube bender on the stack. Don't use an electrician's conduit bender as it does not grip the tubing which will kink it due to the properties of stainless steel. An alternative to bending is to cut and weld the tubing, especially if the desired turning radius is tighter than the limits of the bender, which is usually a 5" radius. Grind the welds smooth to eliminate hot spots, meat hooks and to improve the cosmetics. The maximum number of bends allowed are two, 450 each. You could split a single 450 bend into two 22.50 bends to achieve a smoother transition, but this complicates the welding more and adds to the labour costs. Still, certain installations might require it. Leave about a 1/8" air gap between the end of the stack and the bottom inside of the cap for thermal expansion. This helps to protect the cap from being pushed up off the deck and maintains the deck seal.
THERMAL PROTECTION for the CHIMNEY DECK HOLE - The deck hole for the chimney must be 2" ID which creates 1/2" clearance all around the 1" OD stack. A hole saw is perfect for this job. Drill half way through from the top then finish the hole from the bottom. The ceiling finishing ring is missing on Joe's chimney at right but it illustrates the installation. Seal the exposed deck core in the stack hole with epoxy to maintain the strength. If the cap is to be installed where you expect solid water to come over the deck, then I suggest using at least a 2" thick wood spacer ring to minimize the amount of water that can find its way below. Taper the sides of the ring to 300 so a deck line can slide over the cap. The cap is fastened to the top of the ring with three wood screws and a fibre thermal washer between them. Do not use sealant here. The wood ring is fastened to the deck with three wood screws from below (inside the cabin) and sealed with Sikaflex to the top of the deck, forming a fillet around the base of the ring to keep water out. The thickness of an SJ23 deck adjacent to the mast is 5/8". Remember to face the cap opening aft to keep spray out. Position the bottom ring mounting screws between the cap screws for maximum strength. The stainless steel inside finishing ring also keeps the stack centered in the deck hole and in the chimney cap. Use it as a template for the bottom ring mounting screws. Judging from the cap diagram the chimney stack ends right at the top, inside the cap. This keeps the exhaust fumes from entering the cabin, protecting the crew. With all the exhaust gas evacuated outside, the deck hole should stay relatively cool. A favourite trick is to line the perimeter of the deck hole and wood ring with thin aluminum or stainless steel sheet metal. The metal reflects most of the radiant heat keeping the deck cool. This is very important if you operate the heater for an extended time. If the chimney stack is a wee bit short of the cap then stuffing loosely crumpled aluminum foil inside the deck hole should create a seal to prevent fumes from entering the cabin. If you ever have to service the heater or the stack, remove the heater from the bulkhead and allow the stack to drop out of the cap. This maintains the water tight integrity of the cap to the deck. If you have to remove the cap then release the three screws on top of the ring, leaving the wood spacer ring sealed to the deck. If the cap is sheared off in an accident, seal the deck hole with a rag or tapered wood plug. Now aren't you glad you sealed the edge of the deck hole with epoxy! TOP
TO INSTALL THE DECK CAP (Charlie Noble) - Remember to mount the
deck cap with the opening facing aft and to use a hard
wood ring under the cap for thermal insulation to the deck. If you
sail in an area where you expect to receive lots of spray or solid
water over the deck, then make this ring at least 2" thick to
minimize the amount of water that can flow down the chimney. The higher
the cap is off the deck the less water you will take in.
Use Sikaflex to seal the
ring to the
deck. Coat the ring with Sikkens Cetol Marine as
this is the only finish that will survive the heat of the chimney whereas varnish will flow off.
Install guard rings over the deck cap so you have to
trips to release a snagged line. Keep in mind that the system isn't perfect!
want to hear any swearing about this!
diesel/kerosene pressure tank is best installed in the port locker,
up off the floor so it stays dry and where the air pressure pump is easy to
reach. This is also a relatively safe place to fill the tank since
a fuel spill stays inside the locker where it can be wiped up and fumes
evaporate outside the cabin. The fuel system operates at approximately 30 psi so all
hoses and fittings must be in
DIESEL/KEROSENE BURNER MAINTENANCE
Propane is a very convenient gas to use
North America. It is potentially dangerous on a boat since it is heavier than air
and will accumulate in the bilge creating a
very dangerous situation. Oh joy, another bomb waiting for a spark to ignite it!
For this reason the only place to store a propane bottle is where fumes can vent overboard. If you want to protect it from the heat of the sun
or hide it cosmetically then install it inside a propane storage locker that
is vented to outside the hull AND SEALED from the cabin. Since propane
gas is heavier than air the tank
must be installed high and the drain vent MUST be installed low, at the
bottom of the locker. The drain vent MUST also remain open when the boat is heeled.
This is one of those cases where the tank cannot be stored
low in the hull to become
part of the ballast. You also have to decide which type of tank to use;
disposable steel or refillable steel/aluminum, which determines where and
how it can be stored and how it is to be vented. This decision is not to be taken lightly.
A propane tank must always be clamped vertical inside the locker to achieve a gas feed from the top of the tank, unless you have a tank that is designed to be installed horizontally. The first device connected to the tank valve should be a pressure gauge to allow you to easily and frequently test the gas distribution system for a leak. Immediately after the gauge, you should connect an electric solenoid valve controlled by a gas detector for emergency shutoff. Finally there is the supply hose to the appliance. The supply hose that is ported out through the propane locker wall, MUST go through a gas tight bulkhead fitting. Consider one of the following ideas for a locker:LOCKER THAT VENTS OVERBOARD - A good place to install a propane locker on an SJ23 is inside the port locker just aft of the opening seat. Build a strong sealed box and mount it securely so it stays put, (with a bottle in it), regardless of how much motion the hull goes through. The box MUST be 100% gas tight, including the fittings for vent hoses and the forward facing door. The forward facing door should be easy to operate so you can quickly reach inside to operate the valve or replace the bottle. The box may be made from fibreglass, heavy duty vinyl or plywood that is saturated with epoxy. If you have to go through all the work of fabricating a box then you may as well make it big enough to house a 5 lb refillable bottle. Remember to leave room above the bottle for a pressure gauge, a shutoff valve and your hand to operate the valve. The only acceptable method of venting a locker is from the bottom to the transom via a slight down sloping 1/2" ID hose. Install the drain vent fitting on the port side of the transom, away from the outboard engine, just below the bottom of the locker and above the water line on all angles of heel. Install the inlet vent hose from the top of the locker to a fitting installed high on the transom. It is OK to include an upward loop in the top vent hose to prevent water from coming in. Now your propane locker can vent heavier-than-air fumes over the side, which is the safest place. You should also consider making the locker removable so you can crawl into the locker to inspect the nuts and bolts through the transom. This will require some creativity on your part.
THAT VENTS INTO THE COCKPIT -
A variation on the locker described above is to vent into an SJ23 cockpit
instead of through the transom. This method
uses the cockpit drains as the final path to vent
the heavier than air propane fumes overboard and is acceptable ONLY IF your cockpit drains
go through the transom and you anchor bow into the wind. HOWEVER,
the propane locker vent path shares the cockpit water drain. See Tech
Tip B17 for installing cockpit transom drains. In this configuration the bottom of the locker
must be about 1/2" above the cockpit sole. Drill
a 1" hole, about 1/2" above the cockpit floor, through the
cockpit wall into the propane locker. Cover the vent hole with a small stainless
steel clamshell vent. Fumes more than 1/2" deep inside the
can flow out the drain hole and down the cockpit drain. Thanks to
Thompson for this idea.
BOTTLE CLAMPED ON TRANSOM - A common place to clamp a 5 lb bottle is on the transom or stern rail. This is very convenient but not as elegant as a concealed storage compartment. However, it is definitely safe and easy to install.
BOTTLE MOUNTED IN THE ANCHOR LOCKER - Another ingenious idea is to store the propane bottle in the bow anchor locker. This is ACCEPTABLE IF the locker is totally sealed from the rest of the boat AND the locker has a drain hole to vent propane fumes overboard. You must ensure that the drain hole is NEVER plugged with mud or weeds. See Tech Tip B11. As an added safety benefit, you should be able to smell leaking propane fumes when the bow is upwind of you. Due to the humid conditions in the anchor locker, it is best to use an aluminum tank.
DISPOSABLE BOTTLE STORAGE IDEAS - If you decide to use a disposable propane bottle because you don't want the complexity of constructing a vented storage locker for a 5 pound bottle then consider one of the following solutions. You will run out of propane one day, so carry a spare! I hope that people store their disposable bottle in a safe place where it can vent overboard. Nobody mentions this. I would store a disposable bottle outside the hull in case it starts venting. I have no idea what regulation allows a retail store to hold pallets of full 1 lb bottles inside when at the same time they hold pallets of 20 pound bottles outside.
PROPANE (LPG) SUPPLY HOSE INSTALLATION - Having decided on a storage locker for your propane bottle, you next have to consider the supply hose. Support and protect it along its full length and you should only occasionally have to check it for chafe. This being the case, it should be installed where it can easily be inspected. Consider one of the following safety tips:
OXYGEN CONTENT - The Force 10
propane heater consumes cabin air and is equipped with an oxygen
depletion device that shuts off the heater when the cabin oxygen
level falls below 95% of normal. Mine works very well.
If your internal
tank is not
vented outside the hull, please install vents
immediately. I prefer not to read about an SJ23 sailor in the
obituary column! Besides, it's too nice a boat to blow up!
HEATER MANUAL - Want a manual for your Cozy Cabin
Heater? Please specify which fuel your heater uses, diesel/kerosene or
LPG/CNG, because the description in the manual matches the fuel. No
point in getting the wrong manual.