Terrain

1. Assemble all parts and prep by cuting to size. (in this case skewers were cut to 4" heights, rulers were six inches long, and scrap bits didn't need cutting... being scrap bits.

2. The plastic rulers were purchased for 25 cents each (25 cents for six inches of fence is a good deal) and made good bases because they don't warp and can easily have holes drilled in them for the skewer fence posts. To do drill holes i used an exacto knife and rotated it until a hole just the size of a skewer appeared... this was a time consuming awful way to do it. I need to invest in a pin-vice or a hand drill.

3. using PVA (white) glue, apply a strip of paper to the bottom of the ruler. This was done solely to prevent the post glue from leaking through to the work table.

4. Using a glue gun, or 2 part epoxy (used for speed of setting time) apply the skewer posts to the holes in the bases. PVA would also work but would require much longer before any further work could be done on the pieces.

5. At this point, though it is hardly noticeable other than at extremely close inspection, the posts should be primed black to prevent 'bare' patches (wood color) showing between the mesh where paint doesn't easily apply.

6. Apply the wire screen to the posts, fastening it in place with glue and / or wire from the inside of a twist tie. I used both PVA and twist ties (the ties add a nice minute detail and greater realism) while the glue significantly strengthens the fence structure. Wire mesh is used for the fence sections because it can be easily bent and will hold it's new shape without the aid of glue, it is also more durable than nylon mesh.

7. Barbed wire: Take the nylon mesh, and cut the middle of the screen in a straight line so you end up with a long strand with small bits poking out on each side. This can then be dipped in wattered down PVA to firm it up as it dries to the fence poles. Paint also adds firmness to the nylon mesh, so i applied the strands to the skewers using C.A. (crazy glue). They become more realistic by being twisted slightly so the spiky bits point out in varrying directions and not just up and down.

8. spread glue over the base and add bits and flock to it, especially dense against poles and the bottom of the fence where trash tends to stop and pile up (look at a real fence and you always see the same thing). Set it aside to dry completely before the final step.

9. prime black and paint in metalics / rust / dirt. (see below for finishing touches).

I'm really happy with the results. I would have used some lighter brown washes to brake up the rusty look of the fences and make them even dirtier as well as providing some contrast, but the color didn't show well on the areas I tried.
The propaganda signs (which can be found in The Propaganda Project were printed out and applied with a thin scrape of PVA glue AFTER painting but BEFORE rust washes were applied.
chestnut ink wash was used to get the rust look on these fences, with liberal splashes of dark brown for mud and soil colors, as well as darker rust areas. The poster was painted over with light washes with a diluted ink wash to make it look a little rusted and filthy, like it's been weathered, picked up the rust color from the fence and some bad weather, but not destroyed.

In total these fence sections took about three hours to build and paint (waiting to dry time not included). the result is well worth it - highly detailed and full of character (as much from the addition of a few choice posters as battle damage and base detail).